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Turning on system

L

Leightscgy7

Member
Hi all. This may be a stupid question but here it goes. I know how sensitive electronics are so I want to follow the proper process in turning on my system for the first time when moving it. I have a NAD M10, JL subwoofer and Dynaudio Evoke 20 speakers. I also have a Furman surge protector. Here’s what I think I need to do - please advise if I need to change something. 1. Plug sub and M10 into power conditioner 2. Plug power conditioner into wall. 3. Flip on power conditioner. 4. Both sub and M10 sense signal and turn on.
 
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I do this with all of my electronics. Switch them as a set.

Saves power ( computer/docking station/displays/computer audio setup )

Saves the power switch contacts on the vintage kit, and protects the rest from voltage and antenna transients ( lighting )

I go above and beyond MOV protection. I use isolation transformers.
 
Sandman1221 said:
Check the outlet first with an outlet tester to make sure it is wired properly and grounded.
Click to expand...
FWIW, Quality surge/spike protectors always have an LED ground integrity/wiring fault indicator, along with a protection status LED as well.
Checking with a outlet tester beforehand is a good idea too.
 
UncleAng said:
Great advice, I had an intermittent ground wire connection on my outlet that drove me nuts for 20+ years.
Audible difference? Absolutely !!
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Yeah, the ground wire can come loose from the screw anchor, and wall outlets with pig tail connections for the hot and neutral wires are a problem too, have had several pig tailed outlets cause problems due to wires working loose, so switched hot and neutral wires to the screw anchors. Also had the breaker for the stereo system outlet go bad, it was breaker #13.
 
Sandman1221 said:
Yeah, the ground wire can come loose from the screw anchor, and wall outlets with pig tail connections for the hot and neutral wires are a problem too, have had several pig tailed outlets cause problems due to wires working loose, so switched hot and neutral wires to the screw anchors. Also had the breaker for the stereo system outlet go bad, it was breaker #13.
Click to expand...
For good audio you should use breaker 19.
 
GlamrLama said:
I don't use a power conditioner, just a surge protector.

For components I switch them on in sequence. Source > Preamp > Amp. To switch off I go in reverse. Amp > Preamp > Source.
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Good practice for both tube based and solid state equipment.
I use remote controlled Bluetooth outlets to power up my equipment.
the power switches on my equipment are left on using the remote to turn my equipment on and off. I have several three outlet Bluetooth sockets with remotes that controls each socket on the multi outlets. I've been using them for around two years now without issue. It saves the power switches on the equipment from all that cycling. Especially for those hard to get to to replace and difficult to find power switches.
I did try one of those WiFi power strips that work with an app on a smart phone. That was a HUGE mistake. One day I selected a single socket and everything came on at once. The power strip flashed and popped along with a loud snap from one of my big tube mono blocks. Then none of the sockets would turn off. I had to unplug the thing from the wall.
I won't ever trust one of those WiFi power strips again.
But the Bluetooth outlets have been rock solid.
 
Lavane said:
Good practice for both tube based and solid state equipment.
I use remote controlled Bluetooth outlets to power up my equipment.
the power switches on my equipment are left on using the remote to turn my equipment on and off. I have several three outlet Bluetooth sockets with remotes that controls each socket on the multi outlets. I've been using them for around two years now without issue. It saves the power switches on the equipment from all that cycling. Especially for those hard to get to to replace and difficult to find power switches.
I did try one of those WiFi power strips that work with an app on a smart phone. That was a HUGE mistake. One day I selected a single socket and everything came on at once. The power strip flashed and popped along with a loud snap from one of my big tube mono blocks. Then none of the sockets would turn off. I had to unplug the thing from the wall.
I won't ever trust one of those WiFi power strips again.
But the Bluetooth outlets have been rock solid.
Click to expand...
I use WiFi switches for many things, including multiple ones for stereo equipment, 1 for stereo amp plus Tuner, 1 for CD player, 1 for Channel Master DVR. The Kasa brand on Amazon and Kasa app have been very reliable. My Channel Master DVR used to need to be reset regularly due to no audio on TV, but once I started using a Kasa WiFi switch to turn it on and off that problem stopped.

The Kasa app has schedules and timers for each switch, so when I see a TV program I want to watch that is on at 2-3 am, I will set it to be recorded on the DVR, and then have the DVR and Power Conditioner turn off at 3:05 am. The switches are also great for window AC units that do not have WiFi.
 
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Sandman1221 said:
I use WiFi switches for many things, including multiple ones for stereo equipment, 1 for stereo amp plus Tuner, 1 for CD player, 1 for Channel Master DVR. The Kasa brand on Amazon and Kasa app have been very reliable. My Channel Master DVR used to need to be reset regularly due to no audio on TV, but once I started using a Kasa WiFi switch to turn it on and off that problem stopped.
Click to expand...
That glitch cured me from using them again. If my gear had been solid state based it may not have been a problem. But tube gear draws a lot more wattage than SS. And the sudden inrush was probably too much for the WiFi strip.
 
Lavane said:
That glitch cured me from using them again. If my gear had been solid state based it may not have been a problem. But tube gear draws a lot more wattage than SS. And the sudden inrush was probably too much for the WiFi strip.
Click to expand...
They are not WiFi power strips, they are individual 15 amp UL listed WiFi outlets with only one plug socket. My stereo amp and Tuner are both plugged into a Power Condition and it is plugged into a Kasa WiFi wall outlet so all three come on with one WiFi switch, see picture of Kasa WiFi switch, and they are reasonably priced too.

I also have a regular power strip plugged into the Power Conditioner, and have multiple Kasa switches plugged into that power strip, and just turn on the Kasa switch I need. So 1st turn on Kasa switch for Power Conditioner/stereo-amp/Tuner, then turn on 2nd Kasa switch for CD player when I want it. Thinking of adding a Kasa switch for Tuner.
 

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I use: Outlet>surge protector>GFCI>Kasa Smart plug>power strip. Two setups like this.

I started using the GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) after building my first tube amp. We used to suffer regular brief power outages in our 'hood (since corrected) so I wanted to protect it from those damn power cycles. When the power drops the switch opens and must be reset manually.




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