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Turntable RCA cable replacement

So finally got into the bottom of my PL-518 and Pioneer chose not to solder the interconnects to the board

They use a molex connector.

Now I'm a bit stumped:scratch2:

Should I?
1. Just clip the current interconnects at the back of the table, leaving a pigtail and either
a. solder the new wires direct to the tails or b. solder some RCA jacks to the tails and just use new interconnects
2. clip the wires inside the table at the molex and doing my soldering from there
3. try to find the same size molex and build my own
4. remove the current molex and solder wires to pins
5. just attach some pins from a computer molex to new cables and push them down on the table connector
6. go get another beverage
7. Just leave it as it is-plays fine, sounds good was just trying to squeeze a bit more from it
8. combine 6&7, repeat as needed


I did end up going with the 8' cable from RS, It looks like This, labeled Monster THX v100cv. Was 10 bucks-cut in half and have enough to do another table sometime. $5/table is not to bad

Routing is going to be quite an ISSUE, I'm afraid. such thick cable-almost wonder if it's overkill
Likely will not be able to keep current clamps and such in stock condition-there goes the resale value

Input, ideas,thoughts, a toast...........
 

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So 2nd beverage has kicked in and this doesn't look as bad as I originally though(Famous last words)

attached are a couple pictures showing the current pass-through on the back
This new cable will fit in in almost perfectly id I notch out either side and looks like will still provide some strain relief.

I've decide to use the existing molex and just clip the old cable-can always go back then if I need to.

I'm now wondering though if the 3rd wire, since it's component cable, is OVERKILL to use for the ground wire. Just hate to have a separate dangling wire-though I guess I could run a separate smaller ground, heat shrink it the mains and cover it all it techflex

The original cable is 5' this new one cut in half will be 4'ish, that shouldn't make any difference. Should it?
 

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Sl-220

Totally gonna necro this thread back up... Just rewired my technics SL-220 had originally used the wrong cables but thanks to AK and this thread i got it running. Grabbed the right cables re-wired it and its good to go now. Thanks for all the good info.
 
hakaplan said:
I usually recommend Petra Component Video Cables for turntable ICs (that might have been the thread John was trying to point you to in the last post), but I checked out that website and I think these should work equally well, and they're even cheaper:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/p...d=10235&cs_id=1023502&p_id=961&seq=1&format=2

You can't purchase then ready to solder--you have to prepare one end yourself. My suggestion is to either purchase the six foot version and cut off the connectors, or get the 12' version and have sets for three turntables--or just use one cable cut in half for the tt and use the remaining 12' set for line level ICs. Component video cables are typically low capacitance so that using 6' is no problem. Make sure it's COMPONENT, not COMPOSITE.
Click to expand...

The Petra's are NICE...This is all I use for my turntables...

1. Petra Component Video Cables (50') - I cut out 6' at a time...http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001FBKWEM/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER

2. RCA Connectors - Mouser Part# 568-NYS373-2 and 568-NYS373-9
 
Alright i have a dilemma here. I rewired my table last week and this week after moving some gear around i lost a channel opened it up and one of the wires had come undone due to wire movement and the size of the wires not allowing me to use the wire retainer clip. I drilled a hold so the wires could pass through the chasis of the unit easier with less stress on them and when i put it back together that one channel will not come back. Ive been messing with it for a while now and cant seem to find the reason. All the wires are connected. Im at a loss as to the cause. Ive thought maybe its tonearm wires. Is this a possibility? I checked all the tonearm connections at the pcb where the rca's connect and they all seem fine. Could it be inside the tonearm at the connection to the headshell? Or could it be something else all together.

Edit: Could it be a cold solder joint as well?

EDIT: Upon further testing it seems ive lost a channel in the phone stage of my pre amp. This is a question for another forum thanks anyways.
 
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Regardless of how it turns out, for the future, purchase a cheap multitester--you can find them for $5. Set it to ohms and you can test continuity between any two points to narrow down the location of problem.
 
hakaplan said:
Regardless of how it turns out, for the future, purchase a cheap multitester--you can find them for $5. Set it to ohms and you can test continuity between any two points to narrow down the location of problem.
Click to expand...

Sooo..... how does one test an RCA component cable for capacitance?:scratch2:
 
jbelway said:
Sooo..... how does one test an RCA component cable for capacitance?:scratch2:
Click to expand...
You need a meter that has capacitance capability down to pF. They're relative cheap on ebay--the blue and black one (BM-4070L) looks like a winner. With the cable not connected to anything on either end, place one test lead on the RCA plug (+) and the other on the shell (ground). You want readout in pF. Just for reference the component and composite video cables we usually recommend here for phono use are about 18pF/foot. If the cable you're testing is wired into the turntable, make sure to remove the cartridge or headshell before testing.
 
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hakaplan said:
You need a meter that has capacitance capability down to pF. They're relative cheap on ebay--the blue and black one (BM-4070L) looks like a winner. With the cable not connected to anything on either end, place one test lead on the RCA plug (+) and the other on the shell (ground). You want readout in pF. Just for reference the component and composite video cables we usually recommend here for phono use are about 18pF/foot. If the cable you're testing is wired into the turntable, make sure to remove the cartridge or headshell before testing.
Click to expand...

Great... I just checked my really expensive Fluke 88 and it has everything but pF on it.
So... when we measure capacitance between the + and - of these cables, what is it that is being measured? I Googled capacitance and got this.....
"Capacitance is the ability of a capacitor to store energy in an electric field. Capacitance is also a measure of the amount of electric potential energy stored (or separated) for a given electric potential. "
So... how does that relate to an audio cable? My couriosity is peeked...
 
Excessively high capacitance attenuates high end frequency response in moving magnet cartridges.
 
hakaplan said:
Excessively high capacitance attenuates high end frequency response in moving magnet cartridges.
Click to expand...

Howard... are you saying that high capacitance in the cables going to the pre-amp from the TT effects the frequency response of the cartridge? Can you tell me how?:scratch2:
 
I don't know how it does it. I'm not that knowledgeable in electronics. I only know that that is the result. Maybe someone who knows more will chime in.
 
I've been making some nice meter long phono cables from 17 pF/ft RG-59U and plugs from Parts Express. They work great. If you can get access to the Belden catalog (try the Walker Electronics site), they list the capacitance on every coax cable they make.
 
hakaplan said:
I don't know how it does it. I'm not that knowledgeable in electronics. I only know that that is the result. Maybe someone who knows more will chime in.
Click to expand...

Ok.. thanks Howard, I'm just the curious sort of person that likes to know
 
I have just purchased a PYE 5887 or also now called "Phillips 877" it has a faulty coax cable when I plug this in to my amp it is very low volume and need to turn the volume upto max just to hear it, I have replaced the cable but still having the same issue, do I need a pre amp or is there something I can do or need to swap internally to rectify this problem. I really want to keep the turntable and use it...........please help
 
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