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Tweeters to pair with Trusonic 15" speakers?

brwells said:
Zilch, I know you are suggesting the e-wave thing, is there really a way to fit an e-wave solution inside this cabinet? Do you have any links to anyone who has modified a similar cabinet for into an e-wave?
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http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=276485

http://audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=136160

Search "Barzilay," and you'll likely find a bunch more.

With respect to those tweeters, if there is merit to assembling a vintage correct system, generally speaking, it's not sonic merit. It appears as though Jackgiff had similars with his 150FRs; send him a PM with a link to this thread, asking for his comments. The starting price for those tweeters is more than a pair of eWaveguides and drivers.

The round hole is the port; it is oversize, and the duct behind it is too long, as consequence. Butted up against the rear panel, it's not operating as intended. The baffle is the front panel on which the drivers are mounted.

From the dimensions you've given, the standard waveguide, which is 12" x 6.5" at the front flange, may actually fit your existing baffles. If not, you'll have to make (or have made) new front baffles for the woofers and waveguides.... :yes:
 
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Hey Zilch,

Are these cabs sized ok enough for the 150FR's that are in there? So it sounds like I need a smaller port too? If these cab's aren't even sized correctly for the 150FR's, then it's probably not worth putting too much time into them... yeah?

The baffle that is in there can be taken out with a couple of screws. I think I can make a new baffle easy enough if I decide to go the e-wave route... which I am tempted to do.

-Brian
 
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GordonW said:
Not the same Trusonic. Stevens/Trusonic was out of California... that's the OTHER Trusonic, out of Indiana. Came much later (1960s/1970s) than the classic Stevens stuff (1940s onward).

The Stevens stuff is MUCH more desirable... the FR150s you have are Stevens-built...

Regards,
Gordon.
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Thanks for the tip Gordon!

How can you tell? Are the brochures that were posted earlier from when Trusonics came from of Indiana? I was visually matching the picture of the tweeter (the silver one) with the tweeters on ebay.
 
The brochures reference 1972 Rose Bowl; that certainly sounds like the later Trusonic. Stevens (the founder of the original company) was already dead by then... he died suddenly, putting his original company in peril... as told in this snippet I found:

John Hilliard was the man behind the conception of the first real theater speaker system, the Shearer Horn. After Western Electric failed to develop his ideas, Hilliard, who worked for MGM, got together with Lansing Manufacturing to complete the project. Robert Stephens was a design draftsman at MGM, and he undertook the design and geometry of the multicellular horns used in the Shearer Horn, named for the head of the sound department at MGM. Stephens apparently worked with James B. Lansing during this period starting in 1934.

Robert Stephens left and started his own speaker manufacturing company, Stephens Tru-Sonic, shortly after completion of the Shearer Horn project. Tru-Sonic and Lansing Manufacturing were competitors and made some of the worlds finest audio components. Robert's sudden death caused unstability in his company, which changed hands several times and eventually went under.
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So, technically... the later Trusonic stuff may have been one of the "later versions" of the company after Robert Stephens died... but it was Trusonic mostly in name only. The real design genius, IMHO, died with Stephens...

The association between Lansing and Stephens is remarkable, in that BOTH of them died rather suddenly, rather young. The difference, I guess, was that JBL was able to acquire and keep the design genius of Ed May and Bart Locanthi... unfortunately, Stephens had no one that could take up the reins when he died...

Regards,
Gordon.
 
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brwells said:
Are these cabs sized ok enough for the 150FR's that are in there?
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From your measurements, you have ~4.8 cuft, a good match for the 150FRs, very likely.

Gordon and Jack may be more familiar with those drivers, and how that size cab should be tuned for them.... :yes:
 
Hey Gang....

I have pretty much decided to modify these Barzilay's into the e-wave idea. I have been trying to read as much as I can in my spare time. Iwas reading Duffinators thread regarding his Barzilay modifications and it looks pretty inspiring.

http://audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=136160

Plus, I have been thinking of adding some legs to the bottom of the cabinets just like duffinator (the Ikea legs). The speakers are going to be next to a bookshelf/credenza that have those exact same legs on it (I just that together a couple weeks ago for my stereo setup). The legs would raise the horns up a few inches and tie the furniture together. I'll post on duffinators thread to get his opinion.

Any thoughts on adding legs? Pros / cons?

I need to get a parts list together for the crossovers and everything else. I also need to make a new baffle. So.... i'll be posting to this thread with lots of questions as I move along. I'm extremely busy at work and it's not going to lighten up for several weeks, so I still have time to think about it, change my mind and get some more opinions ;)

Zilch:

Do you think it would be wise to make an L-Pad along w/ the crossovers on this?
 
Brian, I think the eWave will be a good match for your woofs and cabinet. The 6x12 waveguide should fit although it might be tight. If you have not removed the front baffle you'll need to do so in order to remove the grills if they are like mine. The grill sits on the baffle so you'll either need to mount everything from the rear or do something different with the grills similar to what I did.

Regarding the legs they were for both aesthetic and sound reasons. I was looking for a more mid-century modern look plus the legs raise the HF driver closer to ear level. I originally used the Ikea 6" legs and mounted them to a 2x4 sub-frame. You can see my thread for how they were mounted. Your cabinets are slightly different from mine but I suspect they differ only in minor cosmetics.

Looks like you already have the information you need for another successful eWave project. Have fun and good luck. :thmbsp:
 
mhardy6647 said:
Unless you've heard the EV T-35 and you like it, I'd really recommend avoiding it like the plague :-P They are not extended and they're awfully harsh sounding. I say this as a person with about seven of them in the basement (but none of those is actually in use)!
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would that be with solid state amps?
 
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might be better




http://cgi.ebay.com/Tru-Sonic-58000...pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item4aa0b23e87


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Hey guys,

I am about ready to start working on these speakers again. I have the drivers and the horns for the ewave project. Can anyone start me in the right direction for making some crossovers? Do I want to make some crossovers as well as L pads?

Thanks in advance!
 
I'd be looking to make the high-efficiency version of the E-wave crossover (since the Stephens are most likely significantly above 95dB sensitivity at 1 watt:

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You'd want to use the "standard" parts list for 8 ohms (except changing out the .47uf cap for the 1.5uf cap used in the high-efficiency version, as well as the 16 ohm resistor for the H/E's 25 ohm, and the 30 ohm resistor for the H/E's 15 ohm), as seen here:

http://home.comcast.net/~dnewma04/EconowaveBoM.htm

Regards,
Gordon.
 
warning... I am completely electronic illiterate.

Why would I use the 8ohms parts and not the 16ohms parts?

Does the L Pad adjust the levels between the 15" speakers and the tweeters?

-B
 
Tom Brennan said:
You know, a few years ago I would'a told you to just buy an EV T-35 tweeter and a generic 3500 hz crossover from Parts Express. But now so much is expected of speaker DIYers that such easy, care free solutions are subject to ridicule.

Now we're expected to come up with a "proper" solution and that can get so complicated that one is loathe to get involved.
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Lol. Ain't that the truth. Were it me I'd add a nice horn tweeter like that... just like they would've years ago. That Eminence APT 80 tweeter from Parts Express is a REAL nice unit, and a pair won't break the bank !
 
I have piles of horn tweets that came out of consoles etc. Let me know if you want a pair. I'm never going to get around to doing anything with them.

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Heck i even have a stephens crossover pair...

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PM me if interested.
 
That's a pretty nice offer. Were it me I'd do something like that, grab a pair of horn tweeters, make or buy a simple crossover and have at it. IIRC your speaker cabinet looked like it had a bolt in block off plate that could be removed from inside so you could mount a midrange or tweeter horn there. Try something simple and see how you like it.

If you think it sounds promising you could always refine it later on.....
 
brwells said:
Why should I not go w/ a generic crossover? Again, I am pretty electronic illiterate... :)
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you might want to post or link this thread to the econowave thread to get your questions answered quicker.

there are much smarter speaker fellows here than me than can probably better answer your questions, but generally speaking, you need to match the impedance of the crossover to the driver, so if your stephens are a 16 ohm speaker, I'd imagine you'd want to change the low pass (the 12uF cap and 1.5mH inductor, which is a standard 8 ohm, 1200hz 2nd order butterworth crossover) to match your driver's impedence. To go from 8 ohm to 16 ohm, the 12uf cap would change to a 6uf, and the 1.5mH inductor would change to 3mH.

I think what gordon was saying is use the "high efficiency" xover, and when he listed swapping out components, those are the components that differentiate the "high efficiency" parts list from the "standard" parts list.
 
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