University ltv series 200 model 6201

[beltrot]

This mid-century stereo cabinet has been with me since an estate sale years ago, though I never got around to using it. I'm thrilled my daughter is now interested—she even made the effort to move it from Boston to Chicago! It brings me joy to keep the mid-century audio tradition alive and ensure this piece's history is not forgotten.



The cabinet has two University ltv series 200 model 6201 speakers. I have taken one out for your review and I am slightly overwhelmed as to how to connect them to an amplifier and if any parts need to be replaced. There's 2 sets of wires dangling out of the speakers. One set has two wires and the other has 3 wires. There is a capacitor and not sure if it needs to replaced.

So my questions for you are:

1) How do I connect the speaker to a Sansui AU-777 ( https://www.hifiengine.com/manual_library/sansui/au-777.shtml )
2) If any parts need to be replaced e.g. the capacitors
3) How to clean the dusts front and back. Will a clean rag with water do?

 

[bowtie427ss]

The 3 wires connect to an L-pad for controlling the tweeter level.

Your amplifier connects to the 2 terminals as implied by the back cover decal.

That cabinet system is the real score there, it looks very Barzilay-ish.

 

[macyjrm]

I suspect you are going to be super pleased once everything gets hooked back up. Then start looking for a nice low powered tube amp.

 

[swechsler]

Does the cabinet have L-pads (i.e. high frequency control knobs) on the side or back? If not, you'll need to either replace or override them, otherwise you'll get no sound from the tweeters.

I'm thinking that the capacitors should be replaced (those paper caps would have probably dried out a long time ago) but you can do a listening test first. If the high frequencies are very subdued or nonexistent then they are probably due for replacement.

 

[beltrot]

Does the cabinet have L-pads (i.e. high frequency control knobs) on the side or back? If not, you'll need to either replace or override them, otherwise you'll get no sound from the tweeters.

I'm thinking that the capacitors should be replaced (those paper caps would have probably dried out a long time ago) but you can do a listening test first. If the high frequencies are very subdued or nonexistent then they are probably due for replacement.

Thanks swechsler and bowtie427ss for identifying that I may need L-Pads.

So how do I get an L-Pad? I don't see any knobs anywhere in the cabinet so I am assuming there are no L-pads. I searched EBay with the term "l-pad attenuator" and saw bunch of items. I am lost as to which one to pick. Any pointers would be helpful.

 

[beltrot]

The 3 wires connect to an L-pad for controlling the tweeter level.

Your amplifier connects to the 2 terminals as implied by the back cover decal.

That cabinet system is the real score there, it looks very Barzilay-ish.

Learned something new; Brazillay style of furniture. Thank you.

 

[swechsler]

So how do I get an L-Pad? I don't see any knobs anywhere in the cabinet so I am assuming there are no L-pads.

To be honest, I'd try overriding the L-pads first and see if they sound OK without, and see if it's worth proceeding further or instead starting from scratch with newer drivers. To do that, keep the wire that goes directly from the woofer to the tweeter terminal in place (I'm assuming that's the case, it's kind of hard to tell how the wires are run). Connect the other wire from the woofer to one leg of the cap, and connect the other leg of the cap to the other tweeter terminal. If you have some test leads with alligator clips, you might be able to do this without any soldering or cutting of wires.

Remember that the capacitors may be bad. If you still get no sound from the tweeters then the next thing I would do is test them with a multimeter.

 

[Nat]

I am a little alarmed by the condition of the zip cord going to the driver in the second picture. The insulation on both leads is cut through. The open sections are a bit staggered so I doubt you'll fry your amp, but how much of the braid is damaged? I'd cut that section off and rewire.