Lavane
Lunatic Member
Once restored they sound very nice. If you can get ahold of leestereo's old BOM for these it's well worth using. It replaces small value electeolytics with Wima stack films, a few of the cap values are upped a little, diodes replaced with better quiet fast switching types, etc. It really does take these amps to the next level. Upping the values of a couple caps in the power supply, the main filter cap, and coupling caps makes a difference for sure at higher volumes. The coupling cap don't run out of steam as early.
I've restored two of these amps using his list. I kept one, and gave one to my son. He had a second BOM for the resistors, replacing all the carbon film and carbon comp resistors with 1% metal films. I went to all that trouble with one. It was a lot of work. I did an A/B test with the other that still had the factory resistors. There was a bit of a difference, but honestly, it wasn't worth the effort in my opinion to go to all that trouble.
Second the recommendation for the @Leestereo rebuild. Followed it when I did my trusty old 1060 a few years ago, which was the first decent piece of audio gear I ever bought. Used it as primary amp for many years, then as amp for TV sound in our bedroom for another 25 years....always on, except during power outages.
Now it's in my workshop system(s), along with its original partner - a Pioneer PL12D that has been thoroughly serviced and still runs like a champ. Bought them both in 1974 with a loan from Household Finance Company (HFC)!
Now it's in my workshop system(s), along with its original partner - a Pioneer PL12D that has been thoroughly serviced and still runs like a champ. Bought them both in 1974 with a loan from Household Finance Company (HFC)!
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