Is there a particular kind of this stuff that works better on like grounding (not in electrical terms) cables (rubber-like sheaths rca cables) to a pcb? Obviouisly not to the pcp over connections or tabs, but to the pcp where there is none, like the end or border, whatever. I"ve used hot glue to ground the fat caps to the base of the crossover in speakers, but I'm wondering if the glue would be ok to use on a pcb. Anyone have any experience with this?
Using Hot Glue, Do's & Don'ts
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NYListens
CBGB & OMFUG
A good trick is to keep a bowl of ice water next to you. If you get some on, just dunk your hand or whatever into the bowl. Obviously, don't knock the bowl into your fully restored HK Citation.
jcmjrt
Addicted Member
onepixel
.
Do... wear pants
Don't... touch the stuff or the tip (before & after) let it cool
Do... remember to turn it off
Don't... use it over the carpet, or other material, the stuff drips and leaves molten cobwebs that stick
Do... use it quickly before it cools
Don't... use it on stuff that's slick, it won't hold
Do... make a holder and platform so it doesn't tip over and burn your wife's table
Don't... taste it while it's hot, I didn't want to end on a Do...
Don't... touch the stuff or the tip (before & after) let it cool
Do... remember to turn it off
Don't... use it over the carpet, or other material, the stuff drips and leaves molten cobwebs that stick
Do... use it quickly before it cools
Don't... use it on stuff that's slick, it won't hold
Do... make a holder and platform so it doesn't tip over and burn your wife's table
Don't... taste it while it's hot, I didn't want to end on a Do...
Sir.Byrd
Lunatic Member
Do you speak from experience?
NYListens
CBGB & OMFUG
Well I have certainly burned my fingers with hot glue. However, I have never owned a Citation or spilled a bowl of ice water on electronic equipment and hope I never do.
Sir.Byrd
Lunatic Member
That's good.
Sometimes you forgot that the glue is still hot right when it comes out of the gun, I literally grabbed something and put my finger RIGHT INTO a big glob of hot glue! Hurt really bad!
ozmoid
Lunatic Member
My first thought, when I saw the OP's subject line.
Do I hear the voice of experience?
onepixel
.
Paul C
Super Member
Try to avoid the habit of wiping glue drips with your finger.
Now I ask a big question... why use hot glue at all? Hot Glue may damage some components, distort some plastics, and not adhere all that well to some materials.
I want to suggest using another glue... one that I use here in my own workshop on electronics and musical instrument repair.
I use a class of adhesives known as "SBR adhesives". SBR is Styrene Butadyene Rubber. These adhesives are glass clear, bridge gaps well, adhere to dissimilar materials very well, handle vibration and stress better than many epoxies because these glues are slightly flexible when dry. One drawback, the solvents in these adhesives MAY damage some plastics. It would be good to test first.
I use these glues for saxophone repair for gluing on the keytouch pearls, felts, and something I do, custom key appliances. What are these? These are risers on keytouches that enable better reach for some people. See my article here on prostetic work:
http://www.saxgourmet.com/PaulCoatsArticles/fabrication_of_prosthetic_key.htm This article has some photos, too, please, read it.
So, where do you get these marvelous adhesives? There are three that I use.
E6000 by Eclectic Products. This SBR adhesive is the thickest, thicker than silicone caulk or epoxy. I use this for gluing heavy crossover inductors, other heavy parts.
Aleene's Platinum Bond 7800. This SBR adhesive has a viscosity similar to freshly mixed epoxy, perhaps a little thicker. E6000 and Aleene's 7800 are usually found in craft and hobby shops, or the craft section of Walmart.
Seal All. This is usually found in automotive shops and hardware stores.
I suggest you buy all three of these adhesives and experiment with them, see what they will really do. I think you will be impressed with the excellent bond without the brittleness of epoxy. And if you want to remove a component glued with these adhesives, just slice through it with an Xacto blade or sharp knife. You can even scrape off the residue with your fingernail, leaving a clean surface.
Now I ask a big question... why use hot glue at all? Hot Glue may damage some components, distort some plastics, and not adhere all that well to some materials.
I want to suggest using another glue... one that I use here in my own workshop on electronics and musical instrument repair.
I use a class of adhesives known as "SBR adhesives". SBR is Styrene Butadyene Rubber. These adhesives are glass clear, bridge gaps well, adhere to dissimilar materials very well, handle vibration and stress better than many epoxies because these glues are slightly flexible when dry. One drawback, the solvents in these adhesives MAY damage some plastics. It would be good to test first.
I use these glues for saxophone repair for gluing on the keytouch pearls, felts, and something I do, custom key appliances. What are these? These are risers on keytouches that enable better reach for some people. See my article here on prostetic work:
http://www.saxgourmet.com/PaulCoatsArticles/fabrication_of_prosthetic_key.htm This article has some photos, too, please, read it.
So, where do you get these marvelous adhesives? There are three that I use.
E6000 by Eclectic Products. This SBR adhesive is the thickest, thicker than silicone caulk or epoxy. I use this for gluing heavy crossover inductors, other heavy parts.
Aleene's Platinum Bond 7800. This SBR adhesive has a viscosity similar to freshly mixed epoxy, perhaps a little thicker. E6000 and Aleene's 7800 are usually found in craft and hobby shops, or the craft section of Walmart.
Seal All. This is usually found in automotive shops and hardware stores.
I suggest you buy all three of these adhesives and experiment with them, see what they will really do. I think you will be impressed with the excellent bond without the brittleness of epoxy. And if you want to remove a component glued with these adhesives, just slice through it with an Xacto blade or sharp knife. You can even scrape off the residue with your fingernail, leaving a clean surface.
Ouch !
And if you MUST use hot glue and you DO burn yourself, immerse the burned digit (or other appendage) in the ice water for at least 10 minutes - and keep changing the water (or adding ice) so it stays cool - you will be pleasantly surprised at the reduction in severity of the burn if you do this. Running it under the cold tap (or faucet !) for the same amount of time works just as well.
Just my 3 ha'pence worth
John
And if you MUST use hot glue and you DO burn yourself, immerse the burned digit (or other appendage) in the ice water for at least 10 minutes - and keep changing the water (or adding ice) so it stays cool - you will be pleasantly surprised at the reduction in severity of the burn if you do this. Running it under the cold tap (or faucet !) for the same amount of time works just as well.
Just my 3 ha'pence worth
John
Paul C
Super Member
No, these are not silicone products aka RTV. They do not liberate acetic acid fumes (vinegar). They do have a strong solvent smell similar to lacquer thinner. You will want to use them in a well ventilated area.
They gel quickly so you don't have to hold a part in place very long. You can continue with other work while these glues dry.
They gel quickly so you don't have to hold a part in place very long. You can continue with other work while these glues dry.