janikphoto
Lunatic Member
I used just the horn for the high's, as I was going for a very vintage sound. MOdern speakers cover a wider range, so you'll need a modern tweeter, if you want to capture that range.
Using woofers mand horns from console form DIY build?
- Thread starter greyhnd
- Start date
Copa1934
My ears are bleeding
Wow
It may be foam, but still looks cool to me. The one I found was a single driver, I believe, but too long now.
what the inside looks like
It may be foam, but still looks cool to me. The one I found was a single driver, I believe, but too long now.
greyhnd
Active Member
I think to start out the project I'll use the horns and woofers I have here. Then if the sound doesn't suit me I can add another tweeter to the mix. I'm curious how the switches will effect how they sound. I'm going to try mounting them temporarily tomorrow on some particle board just to get an idea how they sound.
Will report back.
Will report back.
Poultrygeist
Lunatic Member
What you call woofers may be more wide range if like many of the older console speakers. They probably won't produce much bass in open baffles but the mids should be nice. If you want strong bass in OB your best bet is a modern woofer with high qts and they aren't expensive.
orthophonic
Super Member
Those magnavox horns cut off at 13,000 Hz and they begin rolling off much sooner.
They are more of a midrange horn than a tweeter.
They are more of a midrange horn than a tweeter.
janikphoto
Lunatic Member
Both of these comments are pretty accurate. These speakers don't dig too deep, don't play too high, and they both travel into the middle frequencies more than their modern counterparts would. But, that's no reason to worry. They still sound fun, when they are paired together. They will sound just like old stereo consoles should. That's not necessarily a bad thing.
HTHMAN
Super Member
what the inside looks like
Now I know what I can do with all those Omaha Steak shipping cartons.
greyhnd
Active Member
Good info guys, thank you.
I didn't get to mount the speakers today. My sump pump didn't kick on and I have about 2" of water surrounding my work bench area in the basement. Maybe later in the day I can give it a go.
If I decide to add a "real" woofer, will it need to be the same size as the speaker I have now? No reason for me to go bigger, but is smaller ok? The same question applies to both OB or ported box.
I didn't get to mount the speakers today. My sump pump didn't kick on and I have about 2" of water surrounding my work bench area in the basement. Maybe later in the day I can give it a go.
If I decide to add a "real" woofer, will it need to be the same size as the speaker I have now? No reason for me to go bigger, but is smaller ok? The same question applies to both OB or ported box.
Poultrygeist
Lunatic Member
The Eminence Alpha 15a is a great ob woofer. MCM makes some high qts 10 inch woofers. You can drive either pair with a sub hundred buck plate amp from PE.
greyhnd
Active Member
Alrighty folks. I spent some time cutting mounting holes for the "woofers" and horns today. After about 2 hours I got things mounted temporarily and wired up. Was a real PITA to follow the diagram with my current eye situation, but I must of done it right.
I mounted the speakers to a couple old kitchen cabinet doors which seems to hold them okay. The xovers and attentuation switch are both hanging loose for the moment.
I played a some Jan Akkerman music for a test and everything works. Seems to me that the sound is a decent mix and the horns don't get screechy. The bass is lacking for my tastes, but the Akkerman tunes still sounded reasonably good.
I think I'll need to add a true woofer to boost the low end to an acceptable level. I looked on MCMelectronics and found an 8" woofer(an MCM brand), sensitivity 87db, Freq Resp 30hz - 3.5khz and QTS of .55. Do you folks think this woofer might work ok with the other components? I like the OB concept, but honestly, my listening area isn't set up to handle speakers 3 or 4 feet out into the room.I may try to construct a box that the maggie speaker and the woofer will fit into then mount the horn separately. I think it would need to be vented or ported or without the back or something. Not sure and a bit confused on that part of things. I'm also a bit lost on what to do about a crossover for the woofer and other speakers together. Sheesh....not the sharpest knife in the drawer.
Any suggestions appreciated.
I mounted the speakers to a couple old kitchen cabinet doors which seems to hold them okay. The xovers and attentuation switch are both hanging loose for the moment.
I played a some Jan Akkerman music for a test and everything works. Seems to me that the sound is a decent mix and the horns don't get screechy. The bass is lacking for my tastes, but the Akkerman tunes still sounded reasonably good.
I think I'll need to add a true woofer to boost the low end to an acceptable level. I looked on MCMelectronics and found an 8" woofer(an MCM brand), sensitivity 87db, Freq Resp 30hz - 3.5khz and QTS of .55. Do you folks think this woofer might work ok with the other components? I like the OB concept, but honestly, my listening area isn't set up to handle speakers 3 or 4 feet out into the room.I may try to construct a box that the maggie speaker and the woofer will fit into then mount the horn separately. I think it would need to be vented or ported or without the back or something. Not sure and a bit confused on that part of things. I'm also a bit lost on what to do about a crossover for the woofer and other speakers together. Sheesh....not the sharpest knife in the drawer.
Any suggestions appreciated.
Poultrygeist
Lunatic Member
The $29 MCM 10 inch (# 55-2981 ) is the popular choice. You can read about it in the Hestia OB thread at Audio Circle. It can be used as a woofer or mid range.
janikphoto
Lunatic Member
The crossover isn't hard. You need to know two things for each speaker...
1.) what the resistance is (ohms rating)
2.) what it's usable frequency range is (how high or low it can play without breaking up sonically)
You take this info to one of the million crossover design websites and figure out what parts you need for a 1st order crossover, then go to mouser or parts express or wherever you prefer and order them. Done.
My guess is the horns will play down to 2k the 15" will play up to 1k and down to 100hz. Then, start cutting your woofer off around 60-80 hz. You will have a little 80-100hz bump, which should sound pleasing.
1.) what the resistance is (ohms rating)
2.) what it's usable frequency range is (how high or low it can play without breaking up sonically)
You take this info to one of the million crossover design websites and figure out what parts you need for a 1st order crossover, then go to mouser or parts express or wherever you prefer and order them. Done.
My guess is the horns will play down to 2k the 15" will play up to 1k and down to 100hz. Then, start cutting your woofer off around 60-80 hz. You will have a little 80-100hz bump, which should sound pleasing.
What is it that you think the engineers designing crossovers professionally are wasting all their time on? Correction: a crossover that will filter each driver within an octave or two of where you intend at a slope vaguely like you intend with poor acoustic summing that manages to avoid setting anything on fire isn't hard.