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Utah WD-90's w/pics

I would order exactly those 2 caps. The 8.2uF will be fine. The caps that you have chosen are 5% tolerance and the extra .2uF falls with this range. The original caps were likely even cheaper and were probably 15% tolerance. I would bet your new caps will put the crossover closer to spec than even the original caps.

Rygen said:
Thanks. Found these in 4uF:

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?PartNumber=027-421

And was wondering if 8.2uF's are ok:

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?PartNumber=027-426

Or I can just run two 4's. Do I wire them up sequentially?
Click to expand...
 
I've always liked those 3-way Utahs...installed several pair in radio stations as control room monitors back in the day. I think the big midrange helps 'em out...nice looking, too!
 
jjohnson said:
I would order exactly those 2 caps. The 8.2uF will be fine. The caps that you have chosen are 5% tolerance and the extra .2uF falls with this range. The original caps were likely even cheaper and were probably 15% tolerance. I would bet your new caps will put the crossover closer to spec than even the original caps.
Click to expand...

Thanks for this. Just placed my order. Can't wait to see how they sound.
 
got a pair of mp-3000, would never ever trade or sell them, they will have to get me a doublewide casket, because im taking them with me (maybe doublewide with a tipout, they are good sized beasts)
 
I'm hoping the parts arrive today to start recapping these. Quick question, do I solder them parallel, or sequentially?
 
Rygen said:
I'm hoping the parts arrive today to start recapping these. Quick question, do I solder them parallel, or sequentially?
Click to expand...

Good luck with the rebuild!

I suggest that you take clear pictures of the crossovers, then draw a rough schematic of the circuit - where the components are located in relation to each other and how they are connected to each other. Post both here in your thread for us to see. We can then help you refine your hand drawn schematic. Once you get that under your belt, actually replacing the components in the circuit will be a piece of cake! Plus, you will learn a little about crossover theory and layout in the process. If you make a mistake when replacing components, your time investment on the front end will make troubleshooting simpler. Not only that, you can leave a copy of the schematic fastened to the inside of the cabinet for future reference.

PS Sequentially is actually called a series connection (not criticizing you, just helping for clarity).
 
mr_wetland said:
So from what I'm hearing, maybe I shouldn't be thinking twice about picking up the Utah A-100s at the little local junk shop? They want $40 for the pair which seemed a little high to me. I know they have a 12" woofer, probably cloth surround allthough I couldn't get the front off. They're three-ways too.
Click to expand...

Fronts don't come off. The grille material is wrapped around the baffle and the drivers are mounted from the rear. The backs are removable for access. As far as getting the ones you saw, you may like how they sound, you may not...just a roll of the dice.
 
Thanks guys, appreciate the help. Here is what the speakers have in them now:

Rygen said:
I looked up the caps, it has two:

Richey
8 mfd
50v

and:

Richey
4 mfd
50v

I checked parts express and I can't find any in 8 or 4 at this voltage. Any suggestions on what would work with these?
Click to expand...

I forgot after getting some help earlier in the thread, I went with these so I won't have to combine caps.

Rygen said:
Thanks. Found these in 4uF:

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?PartNumber=027-421

And was wondering if 8.2uF's are ok:

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?PartNumber=027-426

Or I can just run two 4's. Do I wire them up sequentially?
Click to expand...

But here are some better pics (used a higher res), so you all can see what the setup is.

utah1.jpg


utah2.jpg


utah3.jpg


utah4.jpg


The dayton's arrived today, they are mega huge compared to these little guys.
 
Wow!

I went ahead and recapped them. I also replaced the old rubber strip that was sealing the back. Just hooked them up and I'm thoroughly impressed. They sound significantly better.

Even received a WAF. Though she did say she would like them re-grilled. Pics attached.
 

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I read on these Utah's, that the rubber strip dries out and you loose low frequencies due to air escaping the cab. So I'm guessing resealing them addressed that. I suppose the new caps improved the higher frequencies?

Either way, they sound better and thanks everyone for the help.

@asoundhound,

I used to have a MCS 6601, great table. I just sold it to a guy just getting started in the hobby.
 
Last edited:
THREAD REVIVAL.

I got a pair of these and I figure they aren't a bad speaker to learn a few things on. So I'm wondering if anybody knows how to

1. Reseal the back panel

2. Pair a better tweeter with the other drivers in the enclosure.

I'd recap them too when doing the tweeters.

I'm looking at these tweeters to replace the stock cones (because I don't know, I just feel like the cones sound a little rough) http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=270-252

What do I need to know in order to properly match a new tweeter with a cabinet that already has two other drivers in it?

Also, I really need suggestions for replacing that rubber seal.
 
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