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Various repairs for ADS SAT7 speakers

GrandDesigns

New Member
I picked up a set of three (yes, 3) ADS SAT 7 speakers yesterday. These have the usual damaged midrange domes. One is missing a woofer. Two of the grills have what looks like broken mounting pegs. However otherwise, these are beautiful. The wood cabinets are beautiful and largely free of scrapes or stains. What is remarkable is these were built with the same quality wood veneer on the rear and bottom. Two of the serial numbers are very close and the third is an outlier. One of the grills came with its original box and packing foam, and was not installed on the speaker.

I am about to send two of the midrange drivers to Richard So to be rebuilt. That will cost more than what the speakers cost me, however my intent with these is to make two of them 'like new' as much as possible and give them new life. The third cabinet, missing the woofer, will have to wait. It would really be a labor of love to restore it AND find a mate for it, or assemble a mate from Ebay parts. That would just take time and the desire to throw more money at these.

What I knew about the history of these was the seller had them for about 5 years with the intent to restore, but never did. He got them from his uncle who had them for many years and may have used the 3rd speaker as a center channel speaker.

My main question is does anyone know how the crossover board is attached inside the cabinet? I really don't want to damage anything to remove it. I can test the capacitors and resistors with the board in the cabinet, but if anything needs to be replaced, I need to remove the board to make a proper repair.

The second question: Are the grill mounting pegs known to be different lengths or designs? Comparing the 'new' grill with a broken one shows two different peg styles. The wider part of the peg is longer on one grill and shorter on the other. See photo attached.

Third: Can the speaker mounting pegs be repaird using any known technique? I'm pretty handy and probably devise something but if there's no need to reinvent the wheel, I won't.
 

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After digging into these a bit futher while removing the midrange drivers, I noted the differences between the older and newer serial numbers:

Serial 1334:
Insulation: Yellow
Mid range driver screws: T20 threaded machine screw with self tapping end
Woofer screws: Phillips head

Serial 1339:
Insulation: Yellow
Mid range driver screws: T20 threaded machine screw with self tapping end
Woofer screws: (none)

Serial 2538: (this is the newer outlier with different details)
Insulation: Red
Mid range driver screws: T15 wood screws
Woofer screws: Torx head
 
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