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Veneering Infinity CS-3008s - New Veneer Over Old?

Lefty314

New Member
Hello,

I'm planning to reveneer my Infinity CS-3008s. This will be my first veneer job and I'm trying to figure out if I should try to remove or sand off the old veneer or apply the new over old. I am wondering what the added thickness will do to the fit of the drivers, etc.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

Regards,
Bill R.
 
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Grabbed a snippet online..
Q. Condition of orig. cannot be refinished?
As to your Q?.. Veneer over orig. but face may be difficult to neatly trim around the speaker cut outs and locating the holes for the grill covers.

I'm sure others will chime in. :D
 
Same first question as Blinkman - have you tried sanding the original finish? I've found that if you have real wood veneer, and it's not chipped or lifting, then you can bring the finish back by sanding with medium and then fine sand paper. You can take enough off to get to some clean veneer, then stain/varnish as you please.

If the original veneer is chipped or lifting (especially if it's lifting), then I wouldn't veneer over it. I'd either strip it, or more aggressively sand it to get all the loose stuff off, then fill and smooth. The new veneer will only be as good as what's under it.

bs
 
Scraping is a. Good method for getting veneer cleaned up. You tube for cabinet .scraper.
If you have gouges dings etc that are highly visible then you need to veneer all over .
This requires a complete strip out of all the hardware and a thorough sanding of the old surface to remove all old oils , silicone polish etc
The baffle should be covered in one piece and then you use s s flush trim router to open up the holes.
It's a good idea to make a paper tracing of the actual baffle so you can locate the grille holrs etc
There are loads of tutorials on YT
The best of this is you have the opportunity to make your speakers really unique. Go online and have a look at the exotic veneers available .
Take your time and plan your layout carefully.
I'm not a fan of iron on veneers, its just as easy to heat titebond or pva under a raw veneer and there is a much greater choice in raw veneers.
 
Thanks for your replies. Unfortunately, my cabinets have some dented/chipped corners and moderately deep scratches that would likely need filling or taking the current veneer down to the barest minimum if not more. I will surely need some bondo to rebuild some of the corners and I plan to make templates of the fronts and backs for cut outs. I will do some research on cabinet scrapers too. I see this as a major overhaul as Macaroonie suggests. It may be a Christmas break project.

Thanks again!

Regards,
Bill R.
 
Rebuild the corners. sand them using block w/220 for adhesion. fast wpe the rest with Acetone or denatured alcohol. Acetone I think is better for tack surface and dries just as fast, no need to sand the cabs all over.
bink
 
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