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Vintage Japanese turntable suggestions

Olecranon

Olecranon

Active Member
Hi Everyone,

I have a couple modern TT's in the house, but I'm interested in trying out a Vintage Japanese turntable for a change of pace. I'm looking preferably for a direct drive but would also consider a belt drive. Looking for something towards the higher end of the product stack. My current tables are a Clearaudio Concept with a Dynavector 10x5 cart and a Rega P3 with an Ortofon 2M Bronze. Both are nice tables but looking for something that would go with my Yamaha C-60/M-60 system that is age appropriate.

I'd like to stay away from Technics if possible. No reason except they seem to be common.

Thanks
 
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Got a budget? what cartridge?
LOT of option, but you should consider a Yamaha GT-2000

Next tier, Denon DP-80, then Kenwood KP-1100.
Sorry - have to include Technics SL-1200 mk2. Common, but iconic, and works very well. Nice contrast to what you already have.
All should sound & look great w/your Yamaha system.
 
I don't know what's available to you. No budget was mentioned, which opens the field nicely.

Rejecting Technics is not a great idea. That means no SP10 Mk II (or III).

If I could go back a couple of decades and start from the beginning, I'd buy an armless direct drive turntable (or idler, but the favourites among those usually aren't Japanese). That's mostly what interests me nowadays. I'll use the catch-all term broadcast turntables.

That means you can experiment with plinths, and go for a two-arm setup if you want to explore that.

Mrwood200 mentions the DP80, great choice, as is the significantly cheaper DP75 (it's still easy, in Japan at least, to find various Denon plinths for these models). The Denons and the Technics will feel good and chunky compared to a P3. There are similarly configured models from Victor/JVC as well. I don't know much about them, but I expect they're fine.
 
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You've got a direct drive and an idler - why not get one of the many Japanese idler drives? Some of them might surprise you with their urgency.
Mind you - they would likely be projects, but you might find that fun.
 
I like my Sony 2251. :thumbsup:

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La La Means I Love You.
Off "La La Means I Love You." Philly Groove Records. LP-1150. Monarch pressing. 1968.
Run-out: Philly Groove SA - 1150 MASTERING BY FRANKFORD/WAYNE PHILA. Δ 11817

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Olecranon said:
Hi Everyone,

I have a couple modern TT's in the house, but I'm interested in trying out a Vintage Japanese turntable for a change of pace. I'm looking preferably for a direct drive but would also consider a belt drive. Looking for something towards the higher end of the product stack. My current tables are a Clearaudio Concept with a Dynavector 10x5 cart and a Rega P3 with an Ortofon 2M Bronze. Both are nice tables but looking for something that would go with my Yamaha C-60/M-60 system that is age appropriate.

I'd like to stay away from Technics if possible. No reason except they seem to be common.

Thanks
Click to expand...
The best vintage DDs are Technics. The SP10MK2 is super serviceable unlike many other brands and the mk3 is possibly the ultimate out there.
Technics are the best and eliminating them is a mistake.
The arms too the EPA-100 mk2 is possibly the best s shaped arm ever made by anyone.
Bearing friction on a Jelco for example is 25mg, the sl1200mk2 is 7mg, the EPA-100 mk2 is 4mg, this was a stunning arm.
Chris
 
Going "broadcast" means you could put some real thought and effort and cash into the arm - or should that be arms? yes, it should! if not now then later - especially with that ballsy statement that you're interested in the higher end of the stack. I agree with Chris that the SP10 is a hell of a turntable, and it can be still quite affordably priced for the Mark II. For what you're getting. Someone starting out in turntables (and I wish I'd known enough to do this from the beginning) could just cut to the chase and get one instead of starting at mid-levelish belt drives (such as Project Debut etc. and the low-numbered Regas) and then making little upgrades to improve sound or add features. It adds to the cost of the original deck and eventually people just want to move up the ladder anyway to higher models, often within the same brand. Instead of a P3 and then a P6 over 20 years, an SP10 from the beginning is going to be very hard to outdo.

It's not even the only option, as there are some worthy lower-priced alternatives. The DP75 is a fraction of the cost of the SP10, but still a fine turntable. I know Chris has some reservations about them, but I think he acknowledges that when they're working right, they're good. I'm sure he'll be happy to correct me if I've misremembered. What I like about this category is the flexibility about arm choice and plinth choice, similar to some of the idler models, which were the earlier broadcast tables. Even once you've settled on arm and plinth, it's easy to go in and change things later.

Some other TT's that were (sometimes at least) sold in armless configurations are the Sonys that Mr Boochie shows (I have a PS-2500, but I think it was a different model number overseas), the Technics SP-25 and SP-15, and some Victors. There's also the original SP10 which can still be found and ought to be significantly cheaper than the Mark II.

Note that only some of these turntables can handle 78s, others are just 33 and 45 rpm.

Also no disrespect intended by not mentioning the Yamaha GT-2000. That's more of an all-in-one table, not really something you'd swap out the arm or plinth on. You should take a look at those too.
 
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Several of the vintage DD Technics are well worth pursuing, both linear tracking and conventional arm. The linear tracking SL-10 or SL-15 are built like tanks, all cast aluminum cabinets, and weigh quite a bit. Or the more conventional style DD tables like the SL-1200/1600/1700/1800mkII's are no slouch either. One thing I will say about ALL of the Technics products from that era, as well as Harman Kardon and some other brands that have Matsushita caps in them, you need to carefully inspect inside and take a close look at the electrolytic capacitor leads for leaking corrosion. if any are leaking, left long enough, that corrosion will eventually creep down the legs until it reaches the circuit boards, where it will start to chemically eat the copper traces and solder. The worst case ones will disable the unit and require extensive circuit board repairs to get them going again. if caught in time, no harm done, just replace the caps and all is well.

Or for a different brand, I've liked a few of the older vintage Pioneer's. If you want the beautiful wood plinth look, the old PL-71 and one generation newer PL-530 are gorgeuos machines. Or for a more modern, metallic or conventional look, try the PL-540/550/560 (the older ones, not the recycled model number plastic ones). Or for the SPEC series, the PL-630 was one of their TOTL machines.

I have the Yamaha C-60 pre-amp as well. Love it! I purchased it a couple of years ago because I wanted to try a pre that has adjustable phono cartridge loading. I have the matching era/style tuners T-80, TX-1000 and T-7 as well, along with the M-4 amplifier. All good stuff!
 
A nice, quiet pressing demos the Technics "black background" forte. :)

No Ordinary Love.
Sade. "Love Deluxe." EPIC (Sony UK) 472626-1. 1/2-speed master. Miles Showell mastered. 2020.
Run-out: MILES ABBEY ROAD 1/2 SPEED ROOM 30 BH95415-04 G1

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The Sony 2251 with a nice quiet pressing.

Blue Bayou.
Linda Ronstadt's "Simple Dreams." Nautilus Recordings. NR26. 1/2-speed remaster SuperDiscs. 1981.
Run-out: NR 26 A1 IAM RD 1/2 KM - 6432 - A1

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cafe latte said:
The best vintage DDs are Technics. The SP10MK2 is super serviceable unlike many other brands and the mk3 is possibly the ultimate out there.
Technics are the best and eliminating them is a mistake.
The arms too the EPA-100 mk2 is possibly the best s shaped arm ever made by anyone.
Bearing friction on a Jelco for example is 25mg, the sl1200mk2 is 7mg, the EPA-100 mk2 is 4mg, this was a stunning arm.
Chris
Click to expand...

I agree that the EPA-100 is a fantastic arm. However, its ruby bearings are prone to shatter. So you need to be extremely careful in buying one, including making sure that the seller packs extremely well. The later EPA-500 is also an excellent arm - bearing friction is 7mg. It uses interchangeable straight arm wands to suit different cartridges. It also can use the EPA-250 S shaped arm wand.

FWIW, I use an EPA 500 with my SP-10 Mk 2, with a 501G wand for my Benz Micro Wood SL and a 501H wand for my Shure V15 Mk4
 
Olecranon said:
Hi Everyone,

I have a couple modern TT's in the house, but I'm interested in trying out a Vintage Japanese turntable for a change of pace. I'm looking preferably for a direct drive but would also consider a belt drive. Looking for something towards the higher end of the product stack. My current tables are a Clearaudio Concept with a Dynavector 10x5 cart and a Rega P3 with an Ortofon 2M Bronze. Both are nice tables but looking for something that would go with my Yamaha C-60/M-60 system that is age appropriate.

I'd like to stay away from Technics if possible. No reason except they seem to be common.

Thanks
Click to expand...
Couple of comments. DON’T stay away from Technics and really depends on budget. My choices would be:

1. Lower budget: Sony PS-X50/60 or preferably 70. Excellent sounding tables with the fantastic PUA-7 arm.

2. Higher budget: Technics SP10 Mk2
 
Olecranon said:
Hi Everyone,

I have a couple modern TT's in the house, but I'm interested in trying out a Vintage Japanese turntable for a change of pace. I'm looking preferably for a direct drive but would also consider a belt drive. Looking for something towards the higher end of the product stack. My current tables are a Clearaudio Concept with a Dynavector 10x5 cart and a Rega P3 with an Ortofon 2M Bronze. Both are nice tables but looking for something that would go with my Yamaha C-60/M-60 system that is age appropriate.

I'd like to stay away from Technics if possible. No reason except they seem to be common.

Thanks
Click to expand...
From my experience, anything the Japanese made in the 70s that had a nice S-shaped tonearm plays pretty nice.
All the Japanese direct drives that I've had, Sony, Pioneer, Technics, Fisher, etc. all hold speed in the realm of "just about as perfect as you can get".
 
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