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Vintage semi/full auto table under $500 Recommendations

What do you mean by reliably verify?
Every thing works right now, do you mean I tell them to open up the machine and check the circuit boards for any cap leaks / needed replacements?
I often buy turntables in Japan and then I have to rely on the info and pictures of the advertisement. So far that has always gone well.
 
I think the KP-990 is a better option then the newer KP-7010. The 990 is much more reliable and in my opinion you don't need to upgrade unless you want to spend a multiple of that.
From everything I've read, the 990 and 7010 are the exact same table with a new name and slightly different finish on the plinth.
 
I always advise people to buy a Technics SL-1300, 1500 or 1700 turntable. All the charm of the 1200 without the price premium, and semi/fully automatic operation.
 
I have a 30Lii offered for $260 so I’ll probably keep it in consideration, the kp990 is quite expensive but I do see every nice reviews about it. Will keep it in mind but maybe I can see. How does the QL-Y5/Y7 hold up?
JVC made great turntables. They were as good as Denon, Pioneer, etc. The QL-Y5 and Y7 were great if you want full auto but again, they're more complicated. With any DD turntable from that time, it's a good idea to replace the capacitors. The reason is that they all have ICs and an out of spec capacitor means it's more likely they'll get fried and they can't be replaced.

The KP-990 and the rest in that series (7010, 9010, 1100, 8030) are all very, very similar to each other and all great. They were actually designed by Micro Seiki and at least some were manufactured by Micro Seiki. The 990 I have says "Seiko" on the back.

This channel has videos on the JVC, Kenwood, Pioneer and others. It's a good time sink.

 
I don't know why, might be because of regional models
All the KP 990/7010s here are the 990variant, 7010 is much rarer actually
The one im getting is the 990 with the badass X chassis, decided to just pay $475 for a fully working one in great cosmetic condition. Don't think i'll regret this
Kenwood made the series from about 1986-1996. Originally they were named the KP-990 and KD-1100 internationally and KD-990 and KD-1100 in the US. At some point, the 990 became the 7010 and the 1100 became the 9010 and they slightly changed the finish on the plinth. The 1100/9010 have a slightly more powerful motor and a slightly better tonearm but the difference is really minimal. There was also the KD-8030 which again, is pretty much the same thing with a different name.

Again, I like these because they have auto lift/shut off and are very reliable overall. The arm is very good and can do justice to an expensive cartridge and the chassis is very cool.
 
There are some of the better ones. But automated tables will always present a sonic compromise.
I'd argue that's not true in the case of some auto lift/shut off tables.

For the Kenwoods already mentioned, they use an optical sensor that detects when the arm is at the end of the record. It then triggers a solenoid to lift the arm and shut off the platter. There's no mechanical connection to the tonearm. The pivot shaft just has a tiny arm with a tiny mirror that the optical sensor sees when it's at the correct angle.

The Pioneer PL-30/50Ls are similar but they use a hall sensor to do the same thing.

I can't see how any of these solutions would affect the tone arm in a negative way.
 
I always advise people to buy a Technics SL-1300, 1500 or 1700 turntable. All the charm of the 1200 without the price premium, and semi/fully automatic operation.
1500 is full manual and I really don’t see the point buying a $200 turntable that constantly requires getting a cuing lever fixed
Cost of fixing that horrible design will one day surpass the cost of the turntable
 
I
I'd argue that's not true in the case of some auto lift/shut off tables.

For the Kenwoods already mentioned, they use an optical sensor that detects when the arm is at the end of the record. It then triggers a solenoid to lift the arm and shut off the platter. There's no mechanical connection to the tonearm. The pivot shaft just has a tiny arm with a tiny mirror that the optical sensor sees when it's at the correct angle.

The Pioneer PL-30/50Ls are similar but they use a hall sensor to do the same thing.

I can't see how any of these solutions would affect the tone arm in a negative way.
i will search for a KP-990 / 7010, they aren’t exactly rare to find I just want one for the right price since I still need to save some budget to buy some subwoofers and get a better cartridge
 
1500 is full manual and I really don’t see the point buying a $200 turntable that constantly requires getting a cuing lever fixed
Cost of fixing that horrible design will one day surpass the cost of the turntable

OK, so the 1500 is fully manual. The other two aren't. I just GoogleBinged that series. I doubt very much that the cueing lever needs to be "constantly fixed". The 1300 that I have has been working fine, and was working fine for years before I got it. I also have a Rega Planar 2, which I have never felt the need to upgrade, as it sounds fine to me.
 
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You might consider Technics SL-1600 or 1700 - the MKII versions. These are fully automatic and semi-automatic, respectively. Both are quartz lock speed control, direct drive. They are suspended tables to dampen vibrations, and have easy tonearm height adjustment. A nice add is the stylus illuminator. I love my 1700MKII.
 
Just unreliable as a whole, it will add up overtime
I’ve actually owned a 1300 mk2 before and sold it off because it just didn’t cut it for me

1700s are hella rare, I’ve seen one this whole year and it was absolutely trashed
 
1700mkii was always my desired turntable, too bad it’s always rarer than every other model for some reason…. I swear I’ve seen less 1700mkiis for sale than stuff like sp10mk3s and pioneer p3a’s
 
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