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voltage tracking after naval jelly application

tutor_turtle

tutor_turtle

AK Subscriber
Subscriber
I'm restoring a Bell Sound 6060 amplifier.

After all the capacitors and worn tubes were replaced, the system sounded awesome.
I was ready to hand it off to the customer when he asked I clean the rust off the chassis.

Bad move.

I was very carful only applying a small coating with an acid brush.
After cleaning off the jelly with a soft cloth, I have voltage tracking at all the places where HV is present.

It seems that damn jelly migrated everywhere.
I've tried cleaning with CRC contact cleaner, only to have sparks start leaping in another location.

CRC is too expensive to waste a whole can on and still not be able to disperse the goop.
 
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From AI:

"Naval jelly's active ingredient is primarily phosphoric acid, which acts as the solvent by chemically converting rust (iron oxide) into water-soluble iron phosphate, allowing it to be rinsed away with water, taking the rust down to bare metal for repainting or priming. It's a gel, not a traditional solvent, making it easy to apply and stay on vertical surfaces, with cleanup being simple water rinsing.
How it Works:
  1. Application: Brush or spray the pink gel onto rusty metal surfaces.
  2. Reaction: The phosphoric acid reacts with the iron oxide (rust).
  3. Transformation: The rust turns into iron phosphate, a water-soluble compound.
  4. Removal: Rinse thoroughly with water to remove the dissolved rust and jelly residue, leaving bare metal.
Key Points:
  • Active Ingredient: Phosphoric acid.
  • Solvent Action: Converts rust into iron phosphate.
  • Cleanup: Water-soluble and rinses off easily.
  • Purpose: Removes heavy rust from iron and steel, preparing surfaces for painting. "
 
OBMG74 said:
From AI:

"Naval jelly's active ingredient is primarily phosphoric acid, which acts as the solvent by chemically converting rust (iron oxide) into water-soluble iron phosphate, allowing it to be rinsed away with water, taking the rust down to bare metal for repainting or priming. It's a gel, not a traditional solvent, making it easy to apply and stay on vertical surfaces, with cleanup being simple water rinsing.
How it Works:
  1. Application: Brush or spray the pink gel onto rusty metal surfaces.
  2. Reaction: The phosphoric acid reacts with the iron oxide (rust).
  3. Transformation: The rust turns into iron phosphate, a water-soluble compound.
  4. Removal: Rinse thoroughly with water to remove the dissolved rust and jelly residue, leaving bare metal.
Key Points:
  • Active Ingredient: Phosphoric acid.
  • Solvent Action: Converts rust into iron phosphate.
  • Cleanup: Water-soluble and rinses off easily.
  • Purpose: Removes heavy rust from iron and steel, preparing surfaces for painting. "
Click to expand...
Oh no.

So what I am dealing with is liquid iron.

Would carburetor cleaner be too aggressive?
 
Scotchbrite would be the better method, its not conductive but if it washes away, thats the way to go.

shame its an integrated amp, otherwise I'd say pull the transformers and throw it on the top rack of a dish washer. I've done that with amps and it works fine, but one ended up with a bad level pot. I won't swear it was good before washing but nothing about carbon pots makes me think they'd love a good hot water bath.
 
gadget73 said:
probably, that stuff will eat many non-metal things. If water makes it go away, thats probably the thing to go with.
Click to expand...
You are so right.
Carb cleaner is nasty stuff.

I have some 99.9% industrial alcohol.
My hope is it will combine with the iron phosphate and carry it away.

I'm going to give that a shot.
 
Washing / scrubbing with warm soapy water will probably be the most effective. Follow that by a thorough rinse, and drying (point a fan at it for a day or two).

Contrary to what you might assume, using a "stronger" solvent is often less effective than water. Certain substances that dissolve easily with water, and are hardly touched by alcohol, or acetone.
 
I don't understand how conductive dissolved iron on top of a conductive chassis is causing arcing. If the jelly actually migrated into the tube sockets and other areas with high voltage, your best bet is to hose it down with fresh water, then dry it quickly in a low temperature oven. That's how we used to salvage communications gear that was accidentally dropped in the drink when I worked offshore. Sea water is much more damaging than what you're working with, so this method should work for you.

Jack
 
TriodeLuvr said:
I don't understand how conductive dissolved iron on top of a conductive chassis is causing arcing. If the jelly actually migrated into the tube sockets and other areas with high voltage, your best bet is to hose it down with fresh water, then dry it quickly in a low temperature oven. That's how we used to salvage communications gear that was accidentally dropped in the drink when I worked offshore. Sea water is much more damaging than what you're working with, so this method should work for you.

Jack
Click to expand...
After sopping up all the jelly with a clean cloth, I did hit it with compressed air.
The chassis has ventilation holes everywhere, around every tube, plenty of opportunities for the goop to migrate to the wrong places.

Update: The 99.9% alcohol did the trick. Being hydroscopic by nature, it bonded with residue and flushed it away.
Phew, phew.

Thank you for all the advice folks.
 
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