• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

Volume pot. repair.

L

LM1212

New Member
Hello,
I am currently going through a Vector Research VR-7000. I've recapped it. I've removed, disassembled, and cleaned all of the switches and pots. After I put it back together, I didn't have any signal getting out of the left channel. I traced it back to the volume/balance pot. So, I pulled it out and dissembled it again and found that I must have cracked the carbon trace on the last gang of the pot (see picture). I starting looking for a way to repair the carbon track. Some good folks on this forum suggested the conductive silver epoxy. I ordered some and here's the results. This saved my project. I hope it can help some others. For anyone that maybe thinking of this repair, to cure the epoxy it has to bake at 300F for 10 minutes.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1636.jpg
    IMG_1636.jpg
    207.8 KB · Views: 65
  • IMG_1643.jpg
    IMG_1643.jpg
    192 KB · Views: 65
  • IMG_1648.jpg
    IMG_1648.jpg
    132.6 KB · Views: 59
  • IMG_1647.jpg
    IMG_1647.jpg
    127.2 KB · Views: 65
Register to hide this ad
LM1212 said:
Hello,
I am currently going through a Vector Research VR-7000. I've recapped it. I've removed, disassembled, and cleaned all of the switches and pots. After I put it back together, I didn't have any signal getting out of the left channel. I traced it back to the volume/balance pot. So, I pulled it out and dissembled it again and found that I must have cracked the carbon trace on the last gang of the pot (see picture). I starting looking for a way to repair the carbon track. Some good folks on this forum suggested the conductive silver epoxy. I ordered some and here's the results. This saved my project. I hope it can help some others. For anyone that maybe thinking of this repair, to cure the epoxy it has to bake at 300F for 10 minutes.
Click to expand...
Was it made by Chemtronic? I bought some of that stuff when I needed to fix the tab that was broken off on the rear defroster of my car. Worked like a champ. Great stuff.

Well by your explanation that it had to bake for 10 minutes at 300F, it probably wasn't the Chemtronic stuff because that stuff cured at room temperature.
 
Nice fix, where you aggressive on the clean up? Usually carbon traces are cleaned with a pink eraser. Use a bras brush on the metal part, along with some Deoxit.
 
Mike_S said:
Nice fix, where you aggressive on the clean up? Usually carbon traces are cleaned with a pink eraser. Use a bras brush on the metal part, along with some Deoxit.
Click to expand...
When I have to take one all the way apart, I use a Q-tip with DN5, then lube the carbon/conductive plastic with F100 and the metal contacts with L260NP. It's good time to put new silicone damping compound on the shaft too. One can really spend a fortune on the chemicals for basic repair work.
 
Mike_S said:
Nice fix, where you aggressive on the clean up? Usually carbon traces are cleaned with a pink eraser. Use a bras brush on the metal part, along with some Deoxit.
Click to expand...
Yeah, I had it pinched between my thumb and pointer finger and cleaning the pins with a fiber brush. I must have flexed the carbon track cleaning the pin.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom