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VPI Platter Polishing

theoman

theoman

Confused Member
Subscriber
My table has had this blemish that drives me crazy. I contacted VPI and was told to use magic stainless steel cleaner. I worked a little.
Maybe I just have OCD. My older tables are like 10-40 years old and no blemishes. I could just change the lighting. Any ideas?
IMG_6215 3 Medium.jpegIMG_6216 3 Medium.jpeg
 
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Looks like aluminum. Aluminum polish? A better look and it seems to be paint? Whiteout? If it's an imperfection, I'd consult a pro. I've gone with a fine grit sandpaper and polish.
 
It's an aluminum platter I sent an email to VPI if they will polish it and I got a response right away.

Hey Peter,
You can usexxxxMW for the RA number. We’ll cover the shipping to get it here and will polish it up at no cost—least we can do for a proud owner of four VPI tables!

Thanks so much for supporting our brand and my family all these years.

Talk soon,
Mat
 
I have 4 VPI turntable and I bought my first from 1980 or 1981 They always come thru and aways that they do.

The owner will take care of you!!! the owners name is Mat
Mat replaced my first gen printed arm with a new and better version free at cost,
 
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So, the Platter is Aluminum?
Wouldn't VPI be clear anodizing these? Or no? That's a question I wonder if someone can answer? I would assume they are clear anodized.

If it is Anodized, then how will VPI or whomever makes these Platters for them re-polish the Platter without cutting through the anodizing?

I'd try a Polish myself just on that area, simichrome, of any other quality metal polish, mother's mag polish, etc., and see what happens? Doesn't appear to be anything to lose if still no luck if you plan on shipping it, correct?

Wouldn't the Platter then be put on a Lathe? Or will they do what's been suggested here by others? That's an unknown?

If the damage is then removed, I'd probably then polish the entire top edge to blend. Just simply remove the belt, and rotate the platter by hand while holding a small towel with Polish on the rim, then buff off with a clean towel in the same manner.
 
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I have used fine steel wool to polish my different Thorens tables over the past 63 or 4 years. Then some Brasso for a high shine. Then spray the TT edge with a clear lacquer like used on musical instruments. I only used steel wool when polishing the finger prints that came on my VPI/Levinson TT and then sprayed with a Minwax polyurethane. Of course I had to tape off the belt grooves on the edge of the platter. That was almost 4 or 5 years ago and it still looks perfect.
 
It has to be coated with something otherwise it would have gotten quite dull by now. Not sure if its anodized or just clear coated, but I think its failing.

If its coated, a proper fix would require stripping it, polishing, then re-coating it.

To keep the original finish that needs to go on a lathe for the polishing too. Anything that crosses the original "grain" is going to stick out like a sore thumb if its not uniform around the entire platter.
 
S
theoman said:
it has to be anodized or just clear coated,
Click to expand...
Surprisingly, high grade Aluminum holds up very well against oxidation and dulling. Unless you're looking to use it for Marine purposes.

I think I remember with some early VPI Alu Platters for the Classic, they were supposedly cast. I'm sure that wasn't very wise. (Crap)

And certain some Platters they did were sandwiched, with Stainless Steel, not Aluminum, the TNT's, HR-X.

Those were the days after dumping Lead but they wanted-needed weight. Lead was cheap, but banned. My VPI Platter's got Lead. High Octane! LOL

Thier Platters could be better, and could be worse I reckon.

Sounds like you're on quite nice terms with VPI from your comments and your patronage to them. LOL

They might just send you a brand new 39lb Strainless Steel custom Job! "Open 24 hours a day, no cover charge any time, glad to meet me"! (3 Stooges in Mexico) LOL

 
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High quality zinc mixtures make for good cast platters. Heavy, cheap, and it doesn't ring. The down side is that it tarnishes if not sealed (see Thorens platters) and if the mixture isn't well controlled it has serious dimensional stability problems. See any disintegrated pot metal item for examples of that.
 
Hope this isn't taken as being rude.

I wonder, how did this Platter develop this issue? Was it bought-sold like that, a B grade unit? I know MD in Chicago would sell B Grade VPI stuff. Or? Not a good Anodizing plating done with this particular Platter?

And again, if the Platter was clear anodized, how will VPI deal with the issue? Will they then re-anodize the Platter? Or?
These are questions I'd like knowing answers to before shipping.

Usually these Hand Polishes can work quite well, and fix-restore such issues. Without the need of Lathing, or whipping out a Felt Buffing Wheel with Polishes. Again, I say try this easier method first.
 
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I wanted to see the tables listed and noticed theoman has a gear list signature but I can’t read it because I use Shades of Grey option on ak. The blue just gets lost in the black background. Switched over to the Audiokarma option and now I’ll be awake for a while after that bright flash to my eyes.
That’s a bunch of decent tables and a nice receiver you have listed with the rest of the gear.

Nice they are taking care of this. I still have to polish the platter for my 126 which will take a bit of time but I do have a buffer and compounds to use. That one spot vs a mess all the way around would be more annoying. I see why you want it fixed. I like watching the double M logos on Maxell reels but not a spot that shows up once a revolution.
 
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