Walnut cabs - natural or stain oil?

[Njord Noatun]

(This question with reference to classic walnut speakers that were oiled (and possibly waxed, as well) as opposed to varnished).

I am thinking of building some low walnut stands for some JBL floorstanders that are finished in oiled and waxed walnut, and would like the coloring, sheen and finish of the new stands to match that of the cabs as closely as possible. Does anyone know if classic walnut speakers such as these were oiled with just a natural oil when originally built, or if colorization (AKA "stain") was added to the oil to achieve the hallmark deep reddish brown color? If the latter, what color "stain" would most closely match those used in the originals?

Thanks.

PS! Apologies if this post should have been in the DIY forum instead - to me, speaker forum is more logical.

 

[ejfud]

My guess is just oil.

Walnut will darken with age. That might account for color difference or it maybe a different species of walnut.

Gary

 

[LowVoltage]

Almost all furniture/speaker mfrs use...

A stain of SOME kind. All woods vary greatly in coloration in the natural state. As a result, so you don't wind up with one light speaker and one dark speaker, the mfrs. use a stain of some sort to match them and provide continuity of color over the production run of the cabs.

I wood suggest you find a 'Woodcrafter' or 'Rockeler's' store in your area and ask them for some advise. by all means try it on some scraps of the actual lumber you used to build the stands. For a final oil finish after staining, I would recommend 'Watco' Danish oil finish. It is probably the closest to the JBL cabs if memeory serves me.

Mike

 

[ejfud]

Stain will not even out the color of woods. If you really want to match the colors you will need to use a toner or a non-penetrating stain.

Gary

 

[gonzp]

A stain of SOME kind. All woods vary greatly in coloration in the natural state. As a result, so you don't wind up with one light speaker and one dark speaker, the mfrs. use a stain of some sort to match them and provide continuity of color over the production run of the cabs.

I wood suggest you find a 'Woodcrafter' or 'Rockeler's' store in your area and ask them for some advise. by all means try it on some scraps of the actual lumber you used to build the stands. For a final oil finish after staining, I would recommend 'Watco' Danish oil finish. It is probably the closest to the JBL cabs if memeory serves me.

Mike

My NOS Valves VRD's and Juicy Music BBXTreme are both walnut and finished in just a tung oil finish and are they nice :thmbsp: . I however just finished finishing a knife case in Watco Danish oil and it too is a very nice finish :thmbsp: . No sheen or red highlights though, as there is now red in the wood :nono: .

 

[LowVoltage]

Ejfud is strictly correct.

Woodcrafters has Behlen 'Master' toners available in aerosol cans. The trick is getting one to match the walnut on the cabs. I have used them and they do tend to hide the grain.....hence they "even out" the color. In these circumstances I use an Aniline dye, also available at Woodcrafter/Rockler, that comes in powdered form in one oz. containers. The color I use the most is "Reddish Brown Walnut". You mix the powder with mineral spirits or naptha according to the instructions and, in this case, I would thin it a little more. You can always put on aditional coats to darken/even it up. Since it is a dye, it does not hide the grain as much as tradtional stains do. allow to dry and put your oil finish over it.

Good luck! PM if you want some additional help.

Mike

 

[Urizen]

Watco's Danish Wood Oil comes in a variety of tones. :thmbsp:

I use the natural (clear) finish for my vintage cabs. If I were re-finishing, I would use a toned version.

Good luck!