Water Damaged KLH 17 cabinet

[Tim D]

Recently picked up a pair of KLH 17's for $20. They are missing the correct tweeters, have a lot of misc cosmetic damage (that I can repair) and the killer is that one of the cabinets has water damage. Any suggestions on how to save it? Do I have to cut away the veneer and remove all the damaged particle board, rebuild the particle board and re-veneer it? Ideas beside scrapping it for parts?

The corner joints have separated on the bottom on both sides. Nice part though is that the woofers and grills are in great shape. I can save the other cabinet even though it's got a lot of cosmetic issues. They both have the dreaded water ring on top.

 

[Tim D]

So thoughts anyone?

 

[F1nut]

Part them out.

 

[alteclipsch]

I can't offer much except that the corner separation looks ugly; while I'm not equipped to deal with it, maybe there are others that are and could give you some guidance. If you could dig out enough particle board to push it together with clamps, an epoxy might fill and hold it.

 

[Keldog]

If all you've got is woofers and screens then there is not much left. Part them out or save the good parts for the next time you find a pair. You could cut out the fronts and build new cabs around them.

 

[Tim D]

Ouch

I'm leaning toward digging it out, filling and clamping it. Does anyone have any experience doing that? I'm wondering if I have to disassemble the cabinet to do that level of work properly? I'm wondering how hard that would be to do without further damaging the veneer.

 

[Dazaa]

Ouch

I'm leaning toward digging it out, filling and clamping it. Does anyone have any experience doing that? I'm wondering if I have to disassemble the cabinet to do that level of work properly? I'm wondering how hard that would be to do without further damaging the veneer.

I come across speakers in this condition all the time. Usually people aren't too bothered by the looks as long as the cabinet is solid and they sound good, they just want them sorted quickly and on the cheap. What I do is fill the void with a good quality wood glue and clamp the sides the best I can. Doesn't look nice when its a top join but in this state they're pretty much firewood anyway so it's no big loss.

 

[alteclipsch]

Ouch. I'm leaning toward digging it out, filling and clamping it. Does anyone have any experience doing that? I'm wondering if I have to disassemble the cabinet to do that level of work properly? I'm wondering how hard that would be to do without further damaging the veneer.

I tried that on an old Model 20, which is the same cab as the Seventeen. I went at it with a sharp wallboard knife and just ran it back and forth in the opening until both edges were at a 45 degree angle, then did the same with coarse sandpaper. Mixed some slow cure epoxy, filled the void with it and clamped it with heavy Pony bar clamps in both directions. I also used blue painters tape to keep the epoxy off the veneer edges.

 

[drbiggles]

Hey,

You bet I've done it and there are others here who've done the same, GD70 is top dog for this type of repair. Alteclipsch has it. Once the failing particle board has been scrabbled clean with your fingers, then a pick so seams can be pulled together, you can restore the integrity of the particle board. Use a heat-gun and get the surface toasty. Drizzle on the 2 component epoxy and once it hits the toasty particle board, it will liquefy. This will restore the structural integrity of the failing particle board. Once that cures, then you can use the same 2 component epoxy to glue the seam together. Once that's complete, you can use the same method to repair corners with a 2 component epoxy filler. Sand, then sister in splices of vintage veneer from a donor cabinet.

If you search through my thread on the restoration of my Altec Valencias, you can find images that show all this.

http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/1-curbed-altec-846b-speaker.541841/

I'm in the process of doing the same type of restoration that you're up to on a pair of Bozak Rhapsodys at the moment. It's tedious, a little involved, but not that big of a deal. The more you do it and get your process down, the better you'll get at it.

Biggles

 

[Tim D]

Hey,

You bet I've done it and there are others here who've done the same, GD70 is top dog for this type of repair. Alteclipsch has it. Once the failing particle board has been scrabbled clean with your fingers, then a pick so seams can be pulled together, you can restore the integrity of the particle board. Use a heat-gun and get the surface toasty. Drizzle on the 2 component epoxy and once it hits the toasty particle board, it will liquefy. This will restore the structural integrity of the failing particle board. Once that cures, then you can use the same 2 component epoxy to glue the seam together. Once that's complete, you can use the same method to repair corners with a 2 component epoxy filler. Sand, then sister in splices of vintage veneer from a donor cabinet.

If you search through my thread on the restoration of my Altec Valencias, you can find images that show all this.

http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/1-curbed-altec-846b-speaker.541841/

I'm in the process of doing the same type of restoration that you're up to on a pair of Bozak Rhapsodys at the moment. It's tedious, a little involved, but not that big of a deal. The more you do it and get your process down, the better you'll get at it.

Biggles

Yes Yes YES!!!!! Thanks drbiggles.

Just what I was looking for. I know that the labor isn't really worth it for what these speakers are, but I just didn't want to give up on the patient. (The KLH 17's are nice little speakers, but we're talking a lot of work. I'm up for it.)

 

[drbiggles]

Yes Yes YES!!!!! Thanks drbiggles.

Just what I was looking for. I know that the labor isn't really worth it for what these speakers are, but I just didn't want to give up on the patient. (The KLH 17's are nice little speakers, but we're talking a lot of work. I'm up for it.)

I'm with you and have done the same, many times. It's a good deed, great therapy, and we get to hone our restoration skills on a "test" pair. Your time and effort is not wasted.

Take your time, be patient and take pictures as you go. Man, it really helps to have reference material handy when you get your next project pair on the bench.

You got this.

Biggles

 

[phansen39]

To close the split you want to run a saw blade into the gap. Cut down and through. What you want to do is get the 2 beveled sides as parallel as possible. Then epoxy and clamp the gap shut.

 

[Tim D]

To close the split you want to run a saw blade into the gap. Cut down and through. What you want to do is get the 2 beveled sides as parallel as possible. Then epoxy and clamp the gap shut.

Great idea. This is getting even better.

 

[alteclipsch]

To close the split you want to run a saw blade into the gap. Cut down and through. What you want to do is get the 2 beveled sides as parallel as possible.

I'd use a real skinny saw blade so you don't change the dimensions of the corner. Like a hack saw blade.

 

[phansen39]

Um yes don't use a chain saw.