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Wharfedale W60's

Caps are often connected in parallel to achieve a desired spec. For example using a 10uf and a 2uf to equal 12uf. "Cascading" is a high end and expensive way to use ultra quality low value foil caps i.e., 8uf +3uf +1uf to get the best of the highs and lows, but this is really for a more sophisticated speaker and crossover. I used nominal Solens in my 3-way Sherwood Ravinias with good results. At first they may sound shrill but as the caps reform the sound improves markedly. Madisound is a good source for Solens, PE for Daytons. For a higher end cap at a reasonable cost, try NorthCreek Music for their Zens and Harmony caps. George is helpful and has much expertise in these matters.
 
I can't tell you how much lower the crossover point would be if you use 15 mfd. instead of the 12 mfd. I guess it depends on your listening habits; if you don't listen at loud levels you're probably OK. All I know is that the 12 mfd. would be the safer choice in terms of tweeter protection.
 
OK Dave, thanks. I thought I read somewhere that the original cap was 15mfd. Maybe a mistake. And as I said I couldn't see any markings on the existing cap. I will look again and at a few other vintage speakers I have. May as well replace several caps while I'm at it and save on shipping costs.
 
In my W70s, the cap is 12ufd. When I replaced them, I went to the local shop and got some 12ufd audiocaps that are yellow and tried them just to see if I would like the speakers and the drivers were okay. After about 100 hours it was easy to tell I was impressed with the speakers. As for the caps, maybe 1 day I'll spend more than the $1.00 per cap and go for something higher but truthfully I think doing other things like pulling the l-pad will have more effect unless you have a very revealing system.
 
Yes Brian, considering pulling the L-pads as well. I run them all the way up now. Did you say you got no name caps and they worked well? I will spend the money for "good" caps for the Wharfedales but I have vintage ADC's, KLH's, and EPI's that probably need recapping too. So if cheapies are available locally I might give it a try.
 
Guys, Help me out - I have never been inside the speaker box - never. Yet I have some wonderful speakers including many Wharfedales. However it seems the Wharfedales have the most issues which is fine as long as you can repair them.

Please be gentle - but when I take the screws out from the back panel the wire really does not leave any room to work or even look at the cross overs. Where specically do I cut the wires and does anyone have pictures for me to look at? Thanks Jack
 
sorry to dig this thread back up but it's a great one. I have a pair of 2 way W60s that I'm just getting around to resurrecting and I want to rebuild the crossovers. I've got caps, but

can anyone recommend an L-Pad?
how about the inductor?

reading this thread - am I right that the crossover in this speaker is around 1500 Hz? because my next question is what about a tweeter? Most of the modern tweeters I've seen don't seem to happily go down that low.

I've got the original red band tweeters and the voice coils and foam surrounds are gone. I'd rather replace them with something I can get new (rather than troll ebay for originals), if that's possible.

thanks!
 
sorry to dig this thread back up but it's a great one. I have a pair of 2 way W60s that I'm just getting around to resurrecting and I want to rebuild the crossovers. I've got caps, but

can anyone recommend an L-Pad?
how about the inductor?

reading this thread - am I right that the crossover in this speaker is around 1500 Hz? because my next question is what about a tweeter? Most of the modern tweeters I've seen don't seem to happily go down that low.

I've got the original red band tweeters and the voice coils and foam surrounds are gone. I'd rather replace them with something I can get new (rather than troll ebay for originals), if that's possible.

thanks!

I wasn't sure what the crossover-frequency was, but the Super 3 is like a 3"-4" cone-tweeter that is able to cover a lot of the mid/hi range (It's more like a mid-woofer/tweeter instead of just a tweeter). I have to assume this is why the x-over frequency is so-low. Despite being a 2-way, the W60 has excellent mids. I have the W60's and W90's, as well as the W60E's.
 
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Thanks for the quick reply. The Dayton Silk tweeters say they are designed to work with crossovers as low as 1800, which is close, but...

Keeping mind that I am a speaker noob, would it make any sense at all to be looking at a more full range 3" speaker to get better midrange coverage? Or should I be hunting for a (seemingly) rare tweeter that can handle down into the low 1000s?
 
The thing is, the Super 3 has a very-distinct sound. Very-open and airy, plus A LOT of the W60's great midrange sound comes from that tweeter. Very-British. Extremely-smooth and very-open and musical. IMO, it's an integral part of the design and absolutely-essential if you want that original, Briggs-era Wharfedale sound. I would try and either find a pair of W60's with beat-up cabs and good drivers or just source the tweeters themselves off Fleabay.
 
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I know, trying to stay original would be best.... it's just that the last time i checked ebay super 3's were $50 in non-working order. not real enthusiastic about that route.

I do have a couple of red-band tweeters that are not working. From what I understand it's not real easy to replace the surrounds and mine IIRC had broken voice coils as well. Still, if I could figure out how to do it, I'd rather try ans salvage those than troll ebay. (first choice is still to put something new in there)
 
I know, trying to stay original would be best.... it's just that the last time i checked ebay super 3's were $50 in non-working order. not real enthusiastic about that route.

I do have a couple of red-band tweeters that are not working. From what I understand it's not real easy to replace the surrounds and mine IIRC had broken voice coils as well. Still, if I could figure out how to do it, I'd rather try ans salvage those than troll ebay. (first choice is still to put something new in there)

Perhaps you can work out a deal with a fellow AK'er. The original Super 3 is vital for that early Wharfedale sound (Gilbert Briggs basically designed the entire Wharfedale line around the same W12 woofer and Super 3 tweeter).

I really-like the W60's. I have the 3-way W60E's, but I still prefer the sound of the 2-way, alnico-loaded W60's better. More-open-sounding and coherent, and better for '60's and '70's music and especially stuff like blues, jazz, and classical. They're more-dynamic, despit having a lean low-bass (And like I said, the nice upper-bass makes up for the lean low-bass a lot).

I recently-bought a pair of original W90's that I've been listening to for the past few weeks, and these things are off the friggin' chain. For my tastes, these are perfect (Listening to the Mo-Fi gold CD of Albert King's "Born Under A Bad Sign" right now). It's hard to explain, but they just make music sound "right" (except maybe modern metal/nu-metal... There are plenty of other speakers that can do that stuff better than the W90's). The smoothness, dynamics, depth, and imaging are all incredible. Excellent soundstage (The smaller W60 also has an excellent soundstage along with the other qualities I mentioned... just not as much of it).
 
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Super 3 foam surrounds

Hi, i thought i post a possibility for those looking to replace the foam surrounds on the super 3 used in the W 60.
Search for Infinity 3.25" Infinitesimal micro speaker foam surround repair kit Micro II.
Happened across it looking for Infinities and remembered the super 3 was 3 3/8". Maybe it'll work?
Mark
 
Maybe useful info for early W60s

Hi Mark,

That might be very useful info for refoaming the early W60 tweeter.

Please forgive me for pointing out however that it does NOT pertain to the "Super 3" cuz, to my knowledge (and with all respect to G-T), the Super 3 was never installed in the W60. My early 60s have a nice mid-tweet. Mine are called the PST4. Have some styrofoam lining the cone. Look like this.

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Your surround suggestion may fit that driver. (Don't want to open my cabs to check. They live in a little sealed sub-cab.)

The Super 3 is a great vintage driver (I've got some), but it's much tinier than the PST4. Looks like this.

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The (new) surrounds on my 3's measure 2 1/2" ID and 3 1/8" OD.

Don't want to seem obsessive about this, just trying to offer some clarification.
 

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