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What glue is recommended to glue together control knobs?

Ishmael

Super Member
Just as I was preparing to remove the faceplate to clean the controls of our Kenwood KA-7010 amplifier a new problem arose. The control knobs are two part. A metal exterior shell with a plastic inner piece that fits the shaft for the tone control, however as I pulled the control knob off the shaft the glue that had held these two pieces together was no longer working and the metal shell came off the plastic inner piece.

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What glue would you recommend that I use to glue the two pieces back together? It looks like I could remove the old glue by lifting it off with a knife edge, would that be recommended?

Thanks for your help.
 
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I always use hot glue my self...and don't see any real need to remove old glue, it should keep it nice and tight...
 
Just as I was preparing to remove the faceplate to clean the controls of our Kenwood KA-7010 amplifier a new problem arose. The control knobs are two part. A metal exterior shell with a plastic inner piece that fits the shaft for the tone control, however as I pulled the control knob off the shaft the glue that had held these two pieces together was no longer working and the metal shell came off the plastic inner piece.

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What glue would you recommend that I use to glue the two pieces back together? It looks like I could remove the old glue by lifting it off with a knife edge, would that be recommended?

Thanks for your help.

I just use that kind of glue that's like rubber cement. ex: Amazing Goop Lawn & Garden Contact Adhesive and Sealant. Smells like you're fixing a flat tire on your bike.

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I'd leave the old glue on as a spacer.

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I have always used "Seal-All" for this. Dries clear and never gets brittle. You can get it at any hardware store of auto parts store.

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Great! Thanks for your help I will print your suggestions and take them with me, as this seems to be a gremlin kind of day as I waited too long on the can of deOxit and just about ran out, so I am looking for glue and deOxit, the latter is hard to find in local stores so I may just settle for the radio shack brand.

But isn't this beautiful. Once the faceplate was off everything is just there.

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And thanks again to redcoates7 for his posted clear instructions on how to get the faceplate removed on the Kenwood KA-7010:thmbsp:.
 
I lucked out and got a spray can at a different radio shack, the one I stopped at this morning was out. Trans I do like the needle applicator and will try it out as the spray applicator even on lowest setting and nozzle does make a mess even though I always try to mask with a paper towel, but still you need to clean up and let it dry, which is what I am doing now. I will go with the 5 min epoxy glue as I already have some and will glue up the knobs, and then test run how it sounds before I put everything back together. My wife, much better ears, could hear some slight noise when balance control was moved so hopefully the cleaning will have removed this.
 
Keep Guitar Center in mind too. Way cheaper than Ratshack. And at times they haveit on sale.
 
Thanks larry, I will. I volunteer at the car museum in Tacoma and the Guitar Center is just down the block. I do need to get the gold fader lube too.

Well, thank you all for your help and encouragement. I have cleaned re-assembled and played the KA-7010 for an hour with nothing coming through the controls except the music. This is a very nice integrated amplifier. Tomorrow night I will bring it inside and try it out with our bedroom system.

The two control knobs which came apart have been glued together, but even though it is 5 minute epoxy I am going to let it set all night before putting the last two knobs in place. Thanks again.
 
The glue has set and the knobs work.

Here is my last picture, after touching up the few nicks on the case, cleaning the insides, the switches, the inputs, the interior of the faceplate, gluing knobs together, treating rust and touch up painting the tranny covers.

Not all black boxes are the same it was quite a discovery finding this one.

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