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What The Puck?

classic carl

You may be right with some set-ups. My HK works very well with the puck. I'm even considering doing the "longhorn" mod on my Grado. There's just about the right amount of clearance.
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Looks like the puck is just the right size. My original lid was a bit larger than the puck and the one I ended up using is smaller.
 
Rybeam said:
"...can someone explain to me what using a puck is supposed to do?"


IMO, add undue wear to the bearing of the table by pushing it on and pulling it off. For no detectable sound improvement.
Click to expand...

Some people have more ability to "detect" than others. I've not used a clamp, but I can tell you without hesitation that a weight makes a major difference. I suspect that a clamp would help similarly.
 
I use one of these...


053fip.jpg


052ez.jpg


You can get 'em here....
http://www.hockeyshot.com/Wilpower_Training_Pucks_p/puck-006.htm
 
Not difficult if you have the appropriate bit, a drill press, and a vice. A machinist shop would do it for little to nothing if you don't.

Here's the magnificant Willpower Puck in action. :smoke:

056j.jpg
 
is that hole the entire way through the willpower puck?

what is the diameter if you don't mind me asking
 
voltcontrol said:
That wilpower puck looks pretty cool as record weight!
Click to expand...

+1 :thmbsp:
Much nicer looking than a hockey puck and I noted the weight is 10oz. (283.5g) versus 160-170g for puck. The Bren1 Record Clamp is 391 grams.

I stopped the depth on hockey puck to match spindle height and avoided the hole on top.

Roger
 
Regarding the issues of weight and bearing wear... it really depends upon the turntable.
An over-engineered model with a heavy-duty bearing will not break a sweat, and will not suffer undue wear, from using a weight or clamp. For example, the motor and bearing in my GT-2000 were built with a large margin of safety, because the manufacturer intended all along to offer a heavier, optional gun-metal platter (which they did). The bearing need not be changed when changing to this heavier platter, because the bearing was designed to take the added weight easily. So I do not worry about using a weight on that TT, especially with the original platter; even with the weight added, I'm well below the limit of what it was designed to handle.

Where trouble usually arises in using weights is with TTs that have suspended sub-platters. The added weight will throw the suspension way off. A lightweight clamp is almost the only way to go with these, as it allows you to get a flattening of the record (to reduce warpage) and strong coupling of the record and platter, without adding much weight. Since these TTs often don't have the most robust bearings, it is safer for the bearings, too.

Two things to check before using a weight are (1) how robust is the bearing? and (2) how much torque does the motor have? The more torque, the more easily it will be able to move the added mass. When in doubt about either of these points, it is safer to use a lighter-weight weight, or (even safer) a lightweight clamp.



Of course, nothing has been said in this thread about the other form of record weight; ring clamps. A whole other issue...
 
Arkay said:
Regarding the issues of weight and bearing wear... it really depends upon the turntable.
An over-engineered model with a heavy-duty bearing will not break a sweat, and will not suffer undue wear, from using a weight or clamp. For example, the motor and bearing in my GT-2000 were built with a large margin of safety, because the manufacturer intended all along to offer a heavier, optional gun-metal platter (which they did). The bearing need not be changed when changing to this heavier platter, because the bearing was designed to take the added weight easily. So I do not worry about using a weight on that TT, especially with the original platter; even with the weight added, I'm well below the limit of what it was designed to handle.

Where trouble usually arises in using weights is with TTs that have suspended sub-platters. The added weight will throw the suspension way off. A lightweight clamp is almost the only way to go with these, as it allows you to get a flattening of the record (to reduce warpage) and strong coupling of the record and platter, without adding much weight. Since these TTs often don't have the most robust bearings, it is safer for the bearings, too.

Two things to check before using a weight are (1) how robust is the bearing? and (2) how much torque does the motor have? The more torque, the more easily it will be able to move the added mass. When in doubt about either of these points, it is safer to use a lighter-weight weight, or (even safer) a lightweight clamp.



Of course, nothing has been said in this thread about the other form of record weight; ring clamps. A whole other issue...
Click to expand...

correct on may points regarding suspended decks....as simply cranking up the adjustment nuts doesn't cure the radical off-set caused to the original center of gravity of the suspension. As well as your point(s) about the bearing assembly. The standard AR thrust bearing is delrin, and unless changed out the spindle will bore a hole through it pretty quick. Some Thorens tables run a soft thrust bearing as well.
 
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