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What was the the last audio-related item you purchased?
- Thread starter Romeo Wolf
- Start date
Shibatube
Active Member
I love this amp with my Zu's. About to hook it back up for cooler weather. Been using the Elekit TU 8900 with 2a3 over the summer.
Lavane
Lunatic Member
Lol, maybe a voltage selector, or it can be bridged?
Picked up a PACO SA-40 and Scott LT-110-B. Powered up and all tubes lit up, heard some music via the FM but very scratchy. I may pair the LT-110 with my 222C, but am looking forward to rebuilding the PACO as it will be my first foray into a tube overhaul. So much to learn.
Not shure, but can be bridged yes...
I see what you did there.
jqp
Well-Known Member
Bought a Concord MK IV reel to reel at an online auction. I was the only bidder. Apparently, it is a rebranded National Panasonic. Upon first power up (on dim bulb tester) a 100uf cap blew spewing a bubbly brown molasses like substance out of its top. Took a few days to get it sorted out...relays falling apart, several caps replaced, bad circuit board traces re-soldered, all moving parts cleaned re-oiled adjusted and so on. Nice machine! Auto reverse function is a great feature to have.
Attachments
theflattire
Super Member
just need some wire
FauxHall
Super Member
Completed my bi-wire new cable construction and installation.
Started with a 40 feet length of Belden 10 gauge (6.0mm) speaker cable shipped from Blue Jean Cable in US. Cable is 9.04 mm in outer diameter. Cut into four equal 10 ft. lengths. Slipped on some quarter inch (6 mm), cheap patterned wire sleeve from Amazon leaving a little extra on one end. The hard plastic of the sleeve was hard on these soft hands. Seared the sleeve ends over a flame to contain the unraveling of the sleeve mesh.
Showed the four sleeved cables to the wife and she jumped back! "They look like snakes!" Moral - choose your sleeve color and pattern with care!
Stripped back the cable jacket to the right length for the plastic "Y-boots" and the plug/spades then slipped on a piece of heat shrink to join the sleeve and the cable and hit it with the wifey's hair dryer. A real heat gun might have made a tighter fit. Slipped on the Y-boots over the individual wires and the heat shrink (hardest part of the whole job!)
Stripped the ends of the wires and connected 6 banana plugs and 2 spade lugs (all Nakamichi.) Had to mix bananas and spade lugs since the amplifier has only one set of terminals with one female banana connection and one place to land the spade lug per terminal.
Visually double checked that the color-coding of the plugs and lugs matched the color of the wire. (One was wrong!) I wanted to check continuity with a multimeter but the 9V battery was dead and I didn't have a replacement.
Hooked it together and fired up some music.
Some people scoff at bi-wiring but I'm a believer in the glories of conductor cross-section - the more copper the better! Separating the bass/treble signal paths and isolating the internal cross-over sections are also credible mechanisms for the improved sound I'm hearing, even with an 80 wpc amp driving the easy Harbeth loads and a 160 wpc amp driving my high sensitivity Klipsch Fortes. Not a major improvement, granted, but a gratifying one.
The choosing and ordering of pieces took the longest; otherwise assembling the speaker cables took me about 4 hours total with no special tools required beyond wire cutters and a wire stripper. I might go back and sleeve the Canare cables to the Fortes later, mostly for appearances but I'm not sure these specific Y-boots would be used again.
Started with a 40 feet length of Belden 10 gauge (6.0mm) speaker cable shipped from Blue Jean Cable in US. Cable is 9.04 mm in outer diameter. Cut into four equal 10 ft. lengths. Slipped on some quarter inch (6 mm), cheap patterned wire sleeve from Amazon leaving a little extra on one end. The hard plastic of the sleeve was hard on these soft hands. Seared the sleeve ends over a flame to contain the unraveling of the sleeve mesh.
Showed the four sleeved cables to the wife and she jumped back! "They look like snakes!" Moral - choose your sleeve color and pattern with care!
Stripped back the cable jacket to the right length for the plastic "Y-boots" and the plug/spades then slipped on a piece of heat shrink to join the sleeve and the cable and hit it with the wifey's hair dryer. A real heat gun might have made a tighter fit. Slipped on the Y-boots over the individual wires and the heat shrink (hardest part of the whole job!)
Stripped the ends of the wires and connected 6 banana plugs and 2 spade lugs (all Nakamichi.) Had to mix bananas and spade lugs since the amplifier has only one set of terminals with one female banana connection and one place to land the spade lug per terminal.
Visually double checked that the color-coding of the plugs and lugs matched the color of the wire. (One was wrong!) I wanted to check continuity with a multimeter but the 9V battery was dead and I didn't have a replacement.
Hooked it together and fired up some music.
Some people scoff at bi-wiring but I'm a believer in the glories of conductor cross-section - the more copper the better! Separating the bass/treble signal paths and isolating the internal cross-over sections are also credible mechanisms for the improved sound I'm hearing, even with an 80 wpc amp driving the easy Harbeth loads and a 160 wpc amp driving my high sensitivity Klipsch Fortes. Not a major improvement, granted, but a gratifying one.
The choosing and ordering of pieces took the longest; otherwise assembling the speaker cables took me about 4 hours total with no special tools required beyond wire cutters and a wire stripper. I might go back and sleeve the Canare cables to the Fortes later, mostly for appearances but I'm not sure these specific Y-boots would be used again.
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RunOutGroove
Addicted Member
Let me know what you think of those... I'm considering bidding on a pair on ebay as I've been unable to get parts for my Sennheiser HD600 phones and an jonesing for some headphone listening. I hear that they're are different enough from the Sennheisers that if I ever do get those things working again, I could have a couple of nicely contrasting choices... or maybe just sell my lesser favorite. I hear those a are very good sounding headphones though, particularly for what they cost.
Open back Sundaras to go with my closed back AKG K371s
I also have lower end Sennheiser hd 518s which are open back. Good mids and balanced highs but in my opinion bass isn't Very good The 518 boost the bass in the upper bass region and sound muddy, they don't have good low bass and don't take to well with eq. It's still early but the sundaras have bigger soundstage and the bass is much better and they take eq real well (they do sound good outta the box to).
Lavane
Lunatic Member
I want one, just because it looks cool.Tascam DA-98HR
