-
Feeling lucky? Check out the AK 24th Anniversary Giveaway thread and join in the fun!
What was the the last audio-related item you purchased?
- Thread starter Romeo Wolf
- Start date
Does another QSC 1400 for my rack count?
SVI2004A
Synchro Bias
Yeah…
Looks to be equivalent to my Ramsa WP-9220 amps (200W/ch 8 ohm)
Professional amps count, but what do I know.
And more seriously; If a professional amp performs as well as- or even outperforms HiFi amps I think they are more than suitable to keep at home.
If a person would want such beasts inside their domestic spage is another matter.
Lavane
Lunatic Member
There are a lot of great sounding pro amps. No reason not to use them at home if you have the room, and don't mind hefting them around. The Crown CDi series pro amps can be lifted and even caried by the mounting brackets with two fingers. Of course they aren't a fully discrete amp using a Class D type amp to drive a big descrete output stage with a bank of output transistors. Gone is a big heavy power transformer too. They use a well filtered switch mode power supply and have built in DSP. I use one in my garage that was given to me.
Attachments
Copanel
Well-Known Member
Am I seeing a CT-2000 correctly in the avatar picture?
Well Phase Linear was on the "professional" side of things along with Crown Int'l and Yamaha to name a few. I do recall an article from years ago written by a critic who said the QSC 1000 line amplifiers could "easily be mistaken for McIntosh in overall sound and performance" and the only thing to separate them was the input jack. Now I don't know how true this really is but my first real exposure to QSC was back in the mid-80's working at a boutique audio outlet that had a QSC 1700 driving a set of ESB towers in the "high-end" audio room, there was nothing else available in the day with the needed dynamics and headroom. Our buyers were well-heeled elites who had money, buying power and the domestic space for such a beast and they did sell.
I have a total of five QSC 1400 amps now that have all been recapped and upgraded with nearly 40,000uf of capacitor on the supply, it's not often I go much above -10db on the drive with cats in the house but when I do the neighbors know it and they're 800 feet away. I'm running a mixed bag of vintage speakers from the likes of BIC, KLH and a set of Vega D9's that all gobble up the power with ease.
If you think your amp & speakers are really up to snuff try playing Coba or Life Along The River Vaal by Patrick O'Hearn, I dare ya.
Last edited:
What is that middle driver? It almost looks like a midrange, mounted in a passive driver, with a curved rectangular port at the bottom. I assume it's probably just a midrange with a ring around it for some reason, but it looks quite odd/unique.
bluesky
Lunatic Member
1980 Sansui NOS "High-Efficiency" speaker cables, interconnects, and cable connectors, about 10+ years ago, I guess. An extremely lucky find - eBay USA.
Very Latest, after the cables a decade ago ...
In 2022 or before, my NAD CD player crashed out hard, so I had to get another CD player. Found a used (like new - totally 'silent running') M- Sony blackface DVD/CD player in the GW for $6. It seriously sounds simply outrageous!!!!!!! Total Synergy - much better than the NAD, which I did like really, but the Sony sounds so much better.
The remote did cost me $16 plus shipping on eBay for a perfect M- one. Perfect!!
Very Latest, after the cables a decade ago ...
In 2022 or before, my NAD CD player crashed out hard, so I had to get another CD player. Found a used (like new - totally 'silent running') M- Sony blackface DVD/CD player in the GW for $6. It seriously sounds simply outrageous!!!!!!! Total Synergy - much better than the NAD, which I did like really, but the Sony sounds so much better.
The remote did cost me $16 plus shipping on eBay for a perfect M- one. Perfect!!
Last edited:
doctor fuse
Super Member
Picked up this “non-working” Technics SL-23 for $15 CAD. It is in really nice condition.
Did the usual cleaning of the belt, motor pulley, platter, speed pots and speed selector/ON/OFF switch and it started working, but intermittently. I probably didn’t clean the pots and switch well enough, but nevertheless I took the motor apart and cleaned and gave it some oil at both ends of the spindle.
After this it worked consistently, but with poor Wow & Flutter (audible at 0.14%) so I did all of the cleaning again, and now it is running with W&F at 0.08%. Good enough!
It is a pleasant sounding turntable. Similar to a SB-220 I used to have, but somehow I like this one better - probably the painted MDF plinth versus the 220’s plasticky “TNRC” plinth.
I like this table mostly because it is so easy to work on. I didn’t follow any service manual or guidelines, just winged it. It’s a pleasure when it is designed to be repaired.
EDIT: speed went wonky one more time; took the speed selector/ON/OFF switch apart and promptly lost a tiny metal conductor so had to make a replacement out of a cartridge clip; that still didn’t do the trick so unscrewed the DC set o board and took a look - FILTHY VARIABLE RESISTORS! Cleaned these up, and now it is working perfectly, Wow & Flutter down to 0.06%!
Did the usual cleaning of the belt, motor pulley, platter, speed pots and speed selector/ON/OFF switch and it started working, but intermittently. I probably didn’t clean the pots and switch well enough, but nevertheless I took the motor apart and cleaned and gave it some oil at both ends of the spindle.
After this it worked consistently, but with poor Wow & Flutter (audible at 0.14%) so I did all of the cleaning again, and now it is running with W&F at 0.08%. Good enough!
It is a pleasant sounding turntable. Similar to a SB-220 I used to have, but somehow I like this one better - probably the painted MDF plinth versus the 220’s plasticky “TNRC” plinth.
I like this table mostly because it is so easy to work on. I didn’t follow any service manual or guidelines, just winged it. It’s a pleasure when it is designed to be repaired.
EDIT: speed went wonky one more time; took the speed selector/ON/OFF switch apart and promptly lost a tiny metal conductor so had to make a replacement out of a cartridge clip; that still didn’t do the trick so unscrewed the DC set o board and took a look - FILTHY VARIABLE RESISTORS! Cleaned these up, and now it is working perfectly, Wow & Flutter down to 0.06%!
Last edited:
Lavane
Lunatic Member
With these plastic Technics desks, I've had a few, Dynamat put under the platter and put inside the base helps a lot with the noise.Picked up this “non-working” Technics SL-23 for $15 CAD. It is in really nice condition.
Did the usual cleaning of the belt, motor pulley, platter, speed pots and speed selector/ON/OFF switch and it started working, but intermittently. I probably didn’t clean the pots and switch well enough, but nevertheless I took the motor apart and cleaned and gave it some oil at both ends of the spindle.
After this it worked consistently, but with poor Wow & Flutter (audible at 0.14%) so I did all of the cleaning again, and now it is running with W&F at 0.08%. Good enough!
It is a pleasant sounding turntable. Similar to a SB-220 I used to have, but somehow I like this one better - probably the painted MDF plinth versus the 220’s plasticky “TNRC” plinth.
I like this table mostly because it is so easy to work on. I didn’t follow any service manual or guidelines, just winged it. It’s a pleasure when it is designed to be repaired.
EDIT: speed went wonky one more time; took the speed selector/ON/OFF switch apart and promptly lost a tiny metal conductor so had to make a replacement out of a cartridge clip; that still didn’t do the trick so unscrewed the DC set o board and took a look - FILTHY VARIABLE RESISTORS! Cleaned these up, and now it is working perfectly, Wow & Flutter down to 0.06%!
View attachment 3714137View attachment 3714138View attachment 3714139
I packed the underside of the top of my SL-1950 with rope caulking as well. If I hadn’t passed it on I would have made a new soapstone & aluminum plinth for the last of those good Technics bits. Not being inclined towards the digital arts, I thought I’d rig up a pantograph for trim router since soapstone can be machined with woodworking tooling.
You’ve reminded me to put a SL-1900 on my full-auto short list. I imagine a digitally inclined person might be able to 3D model and print/CNC mill a non-resonant plinth. If so put me down for 2 please.
Lavane
Lunatic Member
Not a bad idea. It would take a few rolls of plastic, or bags of pellets, but it would be pretty cool to see. I wonder how many hours it would take to print one?
Ive seen pictures in a thread in the turntable forum where someone used lead shot on the underside of a platter and poured reson over them.
I thought that was a cool idea. I have an AT LP-1240 turntable thats a Hinpin clone of the Technics SL-1200. It has a heavy aluminum base covered in rubber and decent feet. Its heavy. But I still want to use some Dynamat on the underside of the platter. I picked up the AT turntable on sale and have been pretty happy with it. I just wish it had a hinged dust cover. Personally I prefer manual , semi auto, auto stop, and auto lift turntables. Fewer parts to wear out.
A couple years ago I bought a Realistic LAB-400 full auto turntable for my son. I used it for a few days and wanted to keep it. For a full auto I really liked it. I'm always on the lookout out foe a LAB-400, or LAB-300 belt drive locally.
Cool !! EV Interface C. I've got a pair im getting ready to sell.
Did you get the dedicated equalizer with them?
doctor fuse
Super Member
There is not much plastic in this SL-23. In my SL-D2 and SL-6 I have put plasticine inside the plinth. I tried putting plasticine under the platter but got worried about balance issues (probably unwarranted with the fairly robust motors).
Lavane
Lunatic Member
I've thought about balance issues with deadening the platter myself.
Even with a good motor direct drive or belt drive. Being out of balance could effect the bearings in the direct drive motor or spindle.
Usually there are ridges on the underside of the platter and the deadening material used should be cut to fit in between those ridges and something like Dynamat, etc. should be cut to the same size so they weigh the same.