• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

What's wrong? Poor man's variac

On item that hasn't been mentioned is the outlet plug. Looks like you have the wires going to the upper screw on the one side and the lower on the other side. If you are reuing an old plug it just may have the brass piece that connects the screws on each side removed for a slpit recepticle installation like as used in a kitchen. If so you would not be able to complete the circuit. Hope I've explained it clearly.
 
BobHicks said:
On item that hasn't been mentioned is the outlet plug. Looks like you have the wires going to the upper screw on the one side and the lower on the other side. If you are reuing an old plug it just may have the brass piece that connects the screws on each side removed for a slpit recepticle installation like as used in a kitchen. If so you would not be able to complete the circuit. Hope I've explained it clearly.
Click to expand...

This post and the one on needing to plug something into it to complete the circuit are both good points.

If you are measuring voltage without anything as a load, you will see a full 120V available at the load socket. This is why I listed the load amperage on my estimated voltages in my linked post. A different load will result in somewhat different voltages.
 
outlawmws said:
GFIC's have two functional protection modes. The outlets are obviously protected, but you have two options for downstream connections. Protected, by the GFIC, and unprotected. I wired into the protect side for the downstream dim bulb circuit.
Click to expand...

So the power goes to the GFI first then everything else?
 
Thanks everyone, it is all very clear now. I have a few things to check when I get home, but I will be good to go tonight based on the great info I always get here on AK. Mr. westend, you are absolutely right, I re-read your post and now see what you were saying about the neutral wire. I'm a pretty quick learner, and am always very careful with electricity. I got a light socket with the pull cord, I will use that as an on/off switch so I don't zap myself, although I expect I will always unplug it when not in use. Thanks for the help, gents.
 
A quick follow up. I checked out teh wiring and everything seemed to be good, except I switched the wires to the outlet box (neutral to silver, hot to brass) per Tom's recommendation. They were backwards. Then I plugged stuff in.

I started with a 40 watt bulb, and with my amp plugged in and turned on I got dim light from the bulb and 55 volts at the outlet. The pilot light came on a little bit on the amp, that was about it. But no sparks, no puff of smoke, no bad things. That went 1-1/2 hours, then I went to a 60 watt bulb. 75 volts at the outlet, the four 6BQ5's started to glow a little bit, no hums, no sparks, no voltage on the chassis anywhere. A couple of hours of that, I went to a 75 watt bulb, about 90 volts. Tubes dim but lit up, PT getting a tiny bit warm. So far so good!. I let that sit for a couple of hours, then it was too late to do any more. I have to buy a 100 watt bulb today to get it almost to line voltage, and if I pass that test, it's sweet sounds tomorrow! I am not really expecting to finish my first re-cap without some bumps in the road, and since I don't have any actual sound I don't know for sure that everything works, but wouldn't that be sweet if it did? By the way, at what point do I send a signal from the CDP through just to see if anything is coming out? Or does that wait till I'm at line voltage?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom