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What's wrong with this woofer?

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The buzzing noise? It could be several different issues:

1) The glue on the rubber surrounds have started to go and may need to be re-glued
2) Dust cap is lose and needs new glue
3) Voice coil has begun to rub (bad voice coil, fried)
4) Voice coil lead is touching the cone.

Hopefully it's not #3. Try to isolate where on the woofer it's coming from and if it's the surrounds just gently place your finger on top to see if the noise goes away. If it's the VC, you may need a new woofer.
 
I would guess your voice coil is rubbing or your voice coil is fried. Hope is not the second option. Have you try pushing on the cone gently to see if it rubs?
 
Have you tried...

Help me solve this problem. What exactly is wrong with this woofer?

I shot a video of it. The first woofer shown works properly, the second is the one with the issue.

Help!

Have you tried making sure the fasteners are tight? I ask this because I recently went through this exact problem with a subwoofer I had. Thought speaker was blown and so bought a new driver. Went to replace it and found the screws had vibrated loose over the years. Was nothing wrong with the driver.

Chances are, it's more serious, but I'd check the simple stuff first.

-Woo
 
The buzzing noise? It could be several different issues:

1) The glue on the rubber surrounds have started to go and may need to be re-glued
2) Dust cap is lose and needs new glue
3) Voice coil has begun to rub (bad voice coil, fried)
4) Voice coil lead is touching the cone.

Hopefully it's not #3. Try to isolate where on the woofer it's coming from and if it's the surrounds just gently place your finger on top to see if the noise goes away. If it's the VC, you may need a new woofer.

Further to mythless's advice, I would like to suggest the use of a length of narrow hose to help identify the source of the noise. A piece two, two and a half feet long, maybe. Hold one end to your ear and then move the other end in close proximity to the speaker. Used to do this to balance dual carburetors on an MGB.
 
Have you tried making sure the fasteners are tight?

If you're referring to the screws that secure the woofer to the cabinet, yes. I re-tightened them when I was trying to figure out what was wrong.

The buzzing noise? It could be several different issues:

1) The glue on the rubber surrounds have started to go and may need to be re-glued
2) Dust cap is lose and needs new glue
3) Voice coil has begun to rub (bad voice coil, fried)
4) Voice coil lead is touching the cone.

Hopefully it's not #3. Try to isolate where on the woofer it's coming from and if it's the surrounds just gently place your finger on top to see if the noise goes away. If it's the VC, you may need a new woofer.

So the plot thickens a bit - I had sent this off to get repaired, and this is how it came back. I told the repair place that it had been "fried" when a capacitor failed on the crossover (the woofer was testing "open" with my multimeter). After I got the woofer back, the tech told me that he had re-voice-coiled the woofer.

I tried putting my finger on the surround, that didn't change anything. I'll try some of the other suggestions.

Other symptoms - There is less bass output from this woofer than the other woofer. Does that help narrow the issue?
 
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as said already, voice coil rub.

did you check to see if the spider has come loose from the basket?

did you try rotating the driver 180 degrees?
 
My guess would be that the tech installed an incorrect voice coil, or did not center it properly during installation. When you tested the woofer before sending it off to be repaired, did you test the tinsel leads behind the terminals all the way up to where they come thru cone? when you push on woofer with your hand, does it make noise or have resistance in it's movement? Push on it ONLY when there is no power being fed to it, meaning even if you are not playing music and the amp is idling with the speaker switch on. They will have current flowing thru them in this case, and your assessment of the movement will be that they will feel tight as well. So, what I mean is that when the amp is on and speaker switch is on, they are being fed current in the form of "white noise", in which case the woofer will be resistive in movement because of that. It should still be silent and not make any noise or rubbing sounds. I have found things such as a backing tape on the outside circumference of coil sheath, an edge of the securing tape had come loose, causing a noise during movement of coil in gap.

So, giving you an educated guess, providing the tech you used did not use a coil that was not suited for your woofer's coil gap, I would have to say that he/she did not center coil correctly during installation, and it is binding in gap, which will eventually lead to it failing again, once it has rubbed the enamel off the exposed winding. Send it back to them, would be my suggestion.
 
did you check to see if the spider has come loose from the basket?

did you try rotating the driver 180 degrees?

Which part of the woofer is the spider? I can't rotate the driver 180 degrees due to the shape of the metal housing - it won't fit on the cabinet (to be screwed in) when rotated 180 degrees.


When you tested the woofer before sending it off to be repaired, did you test the tinsel leads behind the terminals all the way up to where they come thru cone?

I followed the leads from where they connect to the wires running to the crossover and tested those wires all the way up to where they come out of the cone.

when you push on woofer with your hand, does it make noise or have resistance in it's movement?

When I push on it there is noticeably more resistance than the other woofer. It doesn't travel far, and its hard to push. I also hear a 'scratchy' noise from behind the cone, like a thin piece of metal brushing on another metal object? Not sure if that's normal or not.
 
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That is awesomeness right there...

Thanks, but I read it in a book. Apparently, that's just how how one balances twin SU carburetors (which are, by the way, a fascinating design ... that required tuning about every other day but was actually pretty easy to do. I got to where I could do it in about, oh, I dunno, less than two minutes, maybe.)
 
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