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Which DeoxIT To Use ??

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parisphoto

Active Member
O.K , I give up. I'm just starting to work on my AR 2AX pots, and cleaning up my amp controls (scratchiness). I went to the DeoxIT web site, and now I'm absolutely confused.
Which are the recommended products for my uses.
Thanks to all.
 
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parisphoto said:
O.K , I give up. I'm just starting to work on my AR 2AX pots, and cleaning up my amp controls (scratchiness). I went to the DeoxIT web site, and now I'm absolutely confused.
Which are the recommended products for my uses.
Thanks to all.
Click to expand...

I have some of the same confusion... When should I use the DN and GN versions (non-flushing) versus the standard D and G Versions? Does the 100% versions actually go futher than the 5% versions (per dollar cost)? When do the "pens" come in handy? Do the needle applicators come in handy for certain uses? and which? It would be very expensive to have all the versions in stock at a work bench, so I'm wondering which are really necessary...
Just for the record, I've started with the DN5, GN5 and F5 faderlube....
 
I start with DN5 on everything and finish with F5 (except for controls that are sealed and not meant to be messed with, such as many on the HK Citation 11).

deofader.png
 
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The DN5 dries about 10,000 times faster than the D5 and seems to work just as well for most purposes. I wouldn't want to use D5 on something that isn't completely disassembled. The D100L stuff really comes in handy too.
 
I just remembered - the applicators totally come in handy, but lots of other things will work. For example, I have used make up applicators that actually hold up a lot better than the Caig applicator/scrubbers. Not sure what they are for - eyeshadow maybe?
 
dumptruck said:
I just remembered - the applicators totally come in handy, but lots of other things will work. For example, I have used make up applicators that actually hold up a lot better than the Caig applicator/scrubbers. Not sure what they are for - eyeshadow maybe?
Click to expand...

I was thinking along those lines, too. Maybe using makeup applicators. I'm going to be asking my wife... One question though: Caig says the G5 (or GN5) is to follow use of the D5 (DN5) to act as a final lube and preservative, so to speak. They say the F5 is for plastic and carbon conductive surfaces (certain kinds of pots?). So, would it make sense to use D5 and G5 on most metal surfaces and D5 and F5 on pots, etc..?
 
stevesailor said:
... One question though: Caig says the G5 (or GN5) is to follow use of the D5 (DN5) to act as a final lube and preservative, so to speak. They say the F5 is for plastic and carbon conductive surfaces (certain kinds of pots?). So, would it make sense to use D5 and G5 on most metal surfaces and D5 and F5 on pots, etc..?
Click to expand...

Sounds right to me.... its consistent with Caig's recommendations.
 
Hi All:
Newbie here regarding actual hands on repair but have collected plenty of stock to get started sprucing up for hours of listing enjoyment of my hundreds of vintage audio components collected over the last couple of years. This Deoxit discussion couldn't have come at a better time. I find this type of discussion interesting and informative. :thmbsp:

So where does Faderlube fit into the mix? What sort of things should one not do or not use deoxit on? Appreciate any words of wisdom. :scratch2:
 
You will get different answers, based on different experiences and preferences.

Tutorial on cleaning with Deoxit (sticky in General Audio):

The Idiot's Guide to Using DeOxit (revisited)
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=207005

These are tips from various threads:
Pot/potentiometers are the rotary knobs. If you use Deoxit D5 recommended to followup with Faderlube F5 to replenish lubrication.
Switches can be levers or buttons. Use Deoxit.
Sliders are knobs that slide like on equalizers. Recommended to use Faderlube only on these.

Some will recommend only Faderlube F5 or Deoxit 100% on rotary knobs to play it safe and not lift and damage sensitive membranes or coatings.

I don't use the Radio Shack twin pack of Deoxit DN5 and Gold GN5 because it's uneconomical. And the 14 gram quick drying breath sprays seem more suited for cleaning RCA jacks and connections rather than for fully flushing switches, pots and other contact cleaning.

So I prefer the 5 oz (142 gram) Deoxit D5 (which has more solvents for cleaning) and Faderlube F5 (for more lube) for just about all my cleaning applications. Just my preference.

Radio Shack DN5 GN5 twinpack about $15
Deoxit D5 5oz $13.99 Faderlube F5 $11.99 at Fry's

14 grams v 142 grams: You get 10 times more product for less than half as much more dollars.

Tips on cleaning tuner (sticky in Tuners):

How to clean a tuner (analog)
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=144163
See thread for recommendations.
 
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I'm still confused as to use of the gold,I understood it was for rca plugs and the like?I use the spray cans,the concentration of the various products is also confusing!?
 
phatster said:
I'm still confused as to use of the gold,I understood it was for rca plugs and the like?I use the spray cans,the concentration of the various products is also confusing!?
Click to expand...

To me, gold is more like a preservative to protect. that's why I say the Radio Shack twin pack is more suited for minor RCA jack and speaker connections cleaning. The luxury twin pack also dries fast so little flushing action.

If you read some threads the D5 is 95% solvent 5% deoxit. The D100 I believe is 100% Deoxit and many recommend this for rotary cleaning without need for Faderlube followup.

I used to be frustrated by the many seemingly conflicting postings and uses and so many threads. Some products are also not as off-the-shelf readily available.

It can be quite confusing, so I just stick with using D5 and F5 which are readily available locally. As simple as that.

The rest if people want will have to research themselves. And determine whether they may want to try some cheaper products. Also beware that some sprays can spray out freezing cold so be careful of cracking solder joints. And of course let liquids dry before powering on.
 
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