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Whichever one you choose pick up their F5 fader lube also to lube them or you will destroy the wipers in the pots.
https://caig.com/fader-f-series/
You don't need the 100%. Use D5 (5%) for switches, and F5 for pots. Pots need the lube in the F5 that D5 doesn't contain. The D is for De-oxidizer. F is for "Fader" as in potentiometers and variable resistors and doesn't contain a De-oxidizer.
I agree, I used D100 in pots before, they quickly became hard to turn if you don't apply Faderlube afterward, as D100 washes away all the lubricant. If you only plan to buy one, start with the Faderlube.
I prefer liquid for a more precise application. I hate to clean up overspray, even if they won't hurt the equipment, they attract dust and dirt. I have the 25ml bottles of D100, Gold, and Faderlube with needle dispenser. They are a little pricy, but they come in handy whenever I have to maintain/service a piece of equipment in my electronics lab.
I prefer liquid for a more precise application. I hate to clean up overspray, even if they won't hurt the equipment, they attract dust and dirt. I have the 25ml bottles of D100, Gold, and Faderlube with needle dispenser. They are a little pricy, but they come in handy whenever I have to maintain/service a piece of equipment in my electronics lab.
D5 has solvent, D100 has no solvent. D5 will wash away lubricants, D100 will not.
I agree with you on preference for liquid form and precise, I call it "stealth", application. D100L with the long thin applicator needle applied ONLY to the point where wiper meets track is the best chance (without disassembly) of removing corrosion and doing no harm. D5 spray does have its place, as the spray comes out strong and will travel everywhere within a switch, but that is something you don't necessarily want inside a pot...spreading solvent everywhere.
I use four Caig products: D5, D100L, F5 and Gold. None of it is cheap but a little goes a long way the bottles/cans last a long time.
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sssboa
Super Member
I used everything on multiple volume pots and the best thing is Deoxit F5 followed by compressed air and repeated but I recommend that you still use 100% lube afterwards, Deoxit F100 or some other non-spray lube, like the one with rainbow on it, Super Lube in oil/gel.
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The silver plated wiper fingers are the "lube" against the new carbon track(s). Silver is "slippery". The shafts are greased during assembly. I have some NOS Japanese pots and aside from the shafts, they are "bone dry". But after they are worn, the "game" changes.
There have been at least a couple threads I recall devoted to the subject of grease around the shafts of pots...discussing what is the best grease to use, and tips and tricks for getting the grease into the area between shaft and sleeve:
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index...drag-lube-and-track-grease-do-you-use.742980/
https://www.audiokarma.org/forums/i...t-lubricant-in-vintage-potentiometers.791570/
edit to add one more:
https://www.audiokarma.org/forums/i...ruins-that-smooth-velvet-feel-in-pots.393106/
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index...drag-lube-and-track-grease-do-you-use.742980/
https://www.audiokarma.org/forums/i...t-lubricant-in-vintage-potentiometers.791570/
edit to add one more:
https://www.audiokarma.org/forums/i...ruins-that-smooth-velvet-feel-in-pots.393106/
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It's near impossible to push grease into the pot shafts without disassembly. I simply put a drop or two of synthetic oil on the outer portion between the shaft knurling and the bushing and let it "wick" itself in, with a few turns helping it. When it feels smooth again, I soak up any excess and call it a day. Then a few years later (if necessary) pull a knob and repeat. I use a needle dispenser bottle to control how little you need. You don't want it oozing all over the carbon after a while so just a small drop or two is all that is warranted.
atmasphere
Active Member
IME its best to stay away from the liquids- use the spray can. Deoxit is as about as powerful as you ever want to use in audio equipment! The red and black can is contact cleaner only. Its best for connectors and works well on tube and transistor sockets as it leaves no residue. The green and black can does work really well on controls but has a downside- it collects dust more. So it should always be used sparingly.
The green and black can is good on switches too. One common place it works wonders is the record/play switches in cassette machines. When dirty, the complaint is often the meters pegging when the machine is simply on. Cleaning the record/play switches can sort that out.
The green and black can is good on switches too. One common place it works wonders is the record/play switches in cassette machines. When dirty, the complaint is often the meters pegging when the machine is simply on. Cleaning the record/play switches can sort that out.
Liquid D100L is meant to be used sparingly and on actual contact areas only, not saturating every nook and cranny like the D5 spray does. D100L is also a much stronger cleaner than D5, which is only 5% cleaner. D100L gives a fighting chance of doing a decent job when opting not to disassemble.
Having disassembled my fair share of switches, and expending a significant amount of elbow grease to truly remove corrosion even with the bare parts at my easy disposal, I can say that simply spraying D5 and working a switch back and forth is far from the ideal method of removing corrosion. It might remove corrosion briefly from the specific, narrow path that the contact points travel, which is why it works for a while but very often requires ongoing repeat treatments. Disassembly and thorough cleaning is a far better method. But...it is for sure a lot of work removing, disassembling, cleaning, reassembling, replacing.
Having disassembled my fair share of switches, and expending a significant amount of elbow grease to truly remove corrosion even with the bare parts at my easy disposal, I can say that simply spraying D5 and working a switch back and forth is far from the ideal method of removing corrosion. It might remove corrosion briefly from the specific, narrow path that the contact points travel, which is why it works for a while but very often requires ongoing repeat treatments. Disassembly and thorough cleaning is a far better method. But...it is for sure a lot of work removing, disassembling, cleaning, reassembling, replacing.
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Are you referring to DeoxIT D5? From the Caig website: "leaves a thin microscopic layer that protects the metal."
atmasphere
Active Member
No. The contact cleaner I used most is the F100. Anything more powerful than that is asking for trouble. I've seen contact enhancers that leave a film on metals; usually these are applied with a brush or the like. I would avoid them on any sort of audio connectors including tube sockets. I've seen equipment damaged by the use of such chemicals.
I guess I don't understand what "leaves no residue" referred to, then. But that's OK. I'm sure all regular users of DeoxIT products develop their own methods according to what they find works for them.
I just want to make sure that new-ish users understand that all of the D, F, G, and S series of products do leave a residue. Or I guess you could say, for the "100" products such as F100, the product is the residue (no solvent).
(I think Caig does offer non-residue cleaners, like what they call "contact cleaner wash"), but that isn't a DeoxIT-branded product.)
I just want to make sure that new-ish users understand that all of the D, F, G, and S series of products do leave a residue. Or I guess you could say, for the "100" products such as F100, the product is the residue (no solvent).
(I think Caig does offer non-residue cleaners, like what they call "contact cleaner wash"), but that isn't a DeoxIT-branded product.)
92% alcohol equates to 8% water... Not me... The last thing I want is water in anything. Dealing with high humidity is bad enough when evaporation "chills" things and condensation forms.