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Which solder iron as a safe option?

toneriderMUC

toneriderMUC

Active Member
Hello AK :)

I am currently trying to pick a decent solder iron. Main purpose will be recap tasks on stereo integrateds and such. I have read a lot about this topic and there seem to be two general strategies:

1. Quick in, Quick out, with a rather highish wattage and temperature
2. Slower work with a lower specced iron, better for beginners (such as me), because you dont need to act jsut as fast as with a stronger iron.

As I only do this once or twice I year I dont want to get a station but a single decent quality iron. In germany, ERSA has a good reputation qualitywise (on par with Weller). I have narrowed it down to these two options:

Ersa Multitip C15, 15 Watt, ~350 C
http://www.kurtzersa.com/electronic...soldering-irons/produkt-details/0910bd-1.html

Ersa Multitip 30S, 30 Watt, ~380 C
http://www.kurtzersa.com/electronic...soldering-irons/produkt-details/0330kd-1.html

They are not far away from each other which makes it really hard to decide. They both offer changable tips and I tend to the 15 Watt option..
 
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If it was me I would get the 30 watt version, there is nothing more frustrating than running out of heat while soldering something. I have tried a number of different wattage irons during my soldering career (45 years) - and have happily used a 40 watt TCP Weller (old now) for most of that time. I find I can get all the power I need just by changing tips. For the hottest and most demanding work I use a Number 9 bit, and for everything else a Number 7 is perfect for me, although I do also have 5, 6 and 8 at my disposal.

I never use chisel bits as I think they encourage 'gouging' while de-soldering - an easy way to lift tracks :( - I always use 'PT-CC' shape bits - conical with an angled face - perfect. :smoke:
 
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You want the 30. I've tried to use small irons before and you'll frequently run into spots where it just doesn't have the gumption to do it, or you'll be on the joint so long that the trace cooks loose. The pencil I use now is temperature controlled but I think the wattage is 65 or 70 watts max.
 
I've accumulated a few over the years.

15W pencil
25W pencil
40W pencil
100/140W gun

I use the 25W the most overall.
 
OP... might check if the 'solder iron' is grounded. had a nasty one with a bad cord. I'd prefer you really get a good temp even analog controlled iron. more up to date for specials and fine work. But you have one controlled. Pencil iron won't fly on a smt chip or most bottom end ic's even simple op amps... you'll fry the traces on most without temp control.
 
toneriderMUC said:
2. Slower work with a lower specced iron, better for beginners (such as me), because you dont need to act jsut as fast as with a stronger iron.
Click to expand...

Exceptionally bad advice ... a beginner can benefit from a higher power iron. Less time on the connection equals less chance of lifting a pad.

It DOES take some practice. Hey, they didn't solder Rome in a day, right? Clean and tin the tip properly, put a touch of fresh solder on it, touch the tip to the component lead, then slide it down to the board trace to minimize time on the copper. A GOOD iron also has fast heat recovery, which is a big plus for keeping things moving along.

I'd also highly recommend a good DE-soldering tool. A cold iron and solder wick are a bad combo in the wrong hands and can destroy boards. Love my Jameco BenchPro ...

jameco-desolder.jpg
 
I love my Hakko fx601. Have been using it daily for two years with no issues. Heats up fully in seconds also!
 
I would get one more than 30W. Here is one: https://www.amazon.com/Weller-SP40N...5413622&sr=8-3&keywords=weller+soldering+iron
https://www.amazon.com/Weller-SP40N...5413622&sr=8-3&keywords=weller+soldering+iron
I would stay with proven brands rather the China ones. Weller is a good brand. I learned big lesson lately, I am allergic to solder fumes, I spent $185 buying a Aoyue station and it didn't last 4 months. Problem is it does not heat well and cool down too easy. I set to 460deg and it just cannot do heaver soldering. I used big tips and it still cool down too fast.

I use Weller for many years, I have a station and I have a simple soldering iron, they work well. Stay away for China stuffs. Aoyue is the same as a lot of other Chinese brands, watch out.
 
redk9258 said:
That's an pretty big iron to use around PCBs.
Click to expand...
I always use big iron, the best way to damage pcb is use an inadequate iron and you have to stick it on, press it hard and let it slowly heat up and melt the solder. That's when you burn the pads, peel the pads out. You want to have hot iron, do it fast and get it done. On my Weller station, I use at least 1.5mm wild tip, I use 800deg tip instead of the common 700deg. You touch the sold, it melt, you get it done.

In fact that's how I damage the Aoyue solder station, even when I use a big tip, set it to 460deg( recommended for 380 or so only), when I solder bigger stuffs, it cooled down, refuse to melt the solder, I push harder and bent the shaft and eventually broke it. My weller iron not only stay hot, it is strong so you don't bend it and it won break. There is a very good reason weller is popular in the industry where people solder full time. Until Metcal came out, Weller was pretty much the industry standard. I have both Metcal and Weller at home, Aoyue is like a tin can compare to it.

Those big filter cap has big post and large thermal mass, you need the heat to melt and remove the cap.
 
I've got blade tips I can plug into the handle of my Weller station ... all the versatility one could need and keeps you from tripping over multiple tools.

(not that I don't do that anyway.) <G>

jameco-desolder.jpg
 
Alan0354 said:
I always use big iron, the best way to damage pcb is use an inadequate iron and you have to stick it on, press it hard and let it slowly heat up and melt the solder. That's when you burn the pads, peel the pads out. You want to have hot iron, do it fast and get it done. On my Weller station, I use at least 1.5mm wild tip, I use 800deg tip instead of the common 700deg. You touch the sold, it melt, you get it done.

In fact that's how I damage the Aoyue solder station, even when I use a big tip, set it to 460deg( recommended for 380 or so only), when I solder bigger stuffs, it cooled down, refuse to melt the solder, I push harder and bent the shaft and eventually broke it. My weller iron not only stay hot, it is strong so you don't bend it and it won break. There is a very good reason weller is popular in the industry where people solder full time. Until Metcal came out, Weller was pretty much the industry standard. I have both Metcal and Weller at home, Aoyue is like a tin can compare to it.

Those big filter cap has big post and large thermal mass, you need the heat to melt and remove the cap.
Click to expand...
Sounds like your technique is the problem...."press it hard"......
My Aoyue has given me about 5 years good service without a glitch.
 
absolon said:
Sounds like your technique is the problem...."press it hard"......
My Aoyue has given me about 5 years good service without a glitch.
Click to expand...

No, I have been soldering at work for 30 years, I taught technicians how to solder. When you solder on boards with ground planes, if the soldering iron is not hot enough ( not holding temperature), the only recourse is to press it harder as pressure reduce melting temperature. I don't have to do this with my Weller station and MetCal much unless it's very big plane, but then the shaft of those are much stronger. I do this professionally, not hobby.

You get what you paid, My Weller station is a simple minded station with temperature adjusted by changing the soldering tip only, it cost about $100. But it last and last, taking all the abuse. The last one of the same model lasted 30 years. The Aoyue is cheap junk only good for weekend warriors. I do contract work at home, this is a business, you use different equipment for professional use. My Metcal station is about $500 and it worth every penny of it. Only reason I got the Aoyue is I developed a severe allergy to the fumes and I have to get one with fume absorber. It costed me $185 and lasted 4 months. Thankfully Amazon replaced it, now I have to have 3 stations for work, the Aoyue and MetCal( you need two guns to solder small SMD parts) for SMD soldering that does not require a lot of heat, then use the Weller for heavy duty soldering.

Weller was the industry standard, but now taking over by MetCal.
 
Expert though you may be, I'd suggest that if you have to use that much pressure because your iron isn't hot enough, you're not using the right tool for the job. Don't blame that on the tool. Aoyue may not be a MetCal or a Weller but it doesn't cost nearly as much and for most of us, it gets the job done without a hitch. As you suggest, it is a perfectly acceptable tool for the weekend warrior, a classification most of us here fall into.
 
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