Why IEC?
- Thread starter addaz
- Start date
apurcell22
Well-Known Member
"IEC is nice if you like a loose ill fitting connection. I hate it when they come loose."
Is your amp hard wired to the wall with Romex and conduit? If I have a loose wall socket, or iec plug I simply replace them. I like them, because swapping an amp takes about a minute with bananas, iec, and rca's.
Al
Is your amp hard wired to the wall with Romex and conduit? If I have a loose wall socket, or iec plug I simply replace them. I like them, because swapping an amp takes about a minute with bananas, iec, and rca's.
Al
nashvillebill
Super Member
No problem, yours is manual (I think) which would be useful to those folks who don't have an air compressor.
addaz
Well-Known Member
Okay, I think I'm a convert. :scratch2: This setup looks like it matches everything I need: http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&itemSeq=102476004&uq=634464266240920433. SPST switch, fused entry (I assume 5mmx20mm fuses? Datasheet doesn't mention...) and IEC. That's quite a few less wires to solder and clutter up the enclosure. However, it's a snap-in.
So now let me ask you: snap-in vs. screw-in? How secure are snap-ins? I don't know if the dimensions they give for these things include the screw-in flanges.
So now let me ask you: snap-in vs. screw-in? How secure are snap-ins? I don't know if the dimensions they give for these things include the screw-in flanges.
Russellc
Addicted Member
Bragger! :finger:
I like IEC for swapping amps out of my main system. Between IECs, nanner plugs, and RCAs, I can swap an amp out faster than my wife can spend 100 bux on shoes.
Jay, will it punch through 1/8 inch aluminum? My F-5 needs such a hole!
Russellc
Russellc
Addicted Member
Preventative in my book is in positioning of the equipment. They would have to be dancing between the equipment rack and the wall to do that, and there's only about 2-3 inches there....and it would just pull out of the wall if there was that much force anyway. Wait until one of those pulls out of your preamp when you use large horn/waveguide speakers with high power amps!
Russellc
mfrench
Addicted Member
Its the crap IEC fit at the amp/piece of gear - its a loose fitting connector; Unfortunately it became trendy in audio to use them, and the gear that I've bought has it,.. until I change it for a proper locking connection.
A Neutrik PowerCon is just as quick to change out, and is a solid positively locking interface. An IEC can fall out with the slight move of a piece of gear. I far prefer a solid locking connector, and demand it in my portable field recording gear.
Russellc
Addicted Member
nashvillebill
Super Member
If you are cutting the hole manually (with a nibbler or Dremel or small hacksaw) then I'd use the screw-in flanges, they would be more forgiving of holes that are...less than perfect.
IMO the snap-in would need a die set to get a a nice clean perfect hole.
apurcell22
Well-Known Member
I Gues that I have been lucky, because all of the ones that I have used fit quite snug. I will have to check out the neutrik plugs. They sound like a nice product.
apurcell22
Well-Known Member
Have a link for the Neutrik plugs?
Al
Al
westend
Audiopile
For power entry modules cut into aluminm panels (I use mostly .125"), the die and punch set is the tool to use. Unfortunately, the price is prohibitive for the casual hobbiest.
I've mostly used snap-in PEM's and Digikey sells a variety of them as to fuse current ratings, switch position, and IEC standard (there are different terminations), and interior connections. The screw mounted PEM's should be more robust for the hobbiest since holes don't need to be machined to quite so tight tolerances. The only other issue with PEM snap-in's is the mounting material dimension, i.e. most of them require a mounting panel that is less than .125 in..
Here's how I cut them: Mark location on panel, drill at least four holes (I like to get close to the corners) that will accept the size of jig saw bit used. I cut along the lines marked with a Bosch jig saw, staying inside the line. After cutting, I measure and proceed to file the edges using a traditional bastard file. The file makes quick work of smoothing and enlarging the hole to get an even and burr-free hole. I test fit the PEM into the hole (about 3/4 of the way so it doesn't catch the retaining strips), removing it to file the edges until it is an exact fit. Install the PEM, remember to add a fuse if you have a fused PEM.
I've mostly used snap-in PEM's and Digikey sells a variety of them as to fuse current ratings, switch position, and IEC standard (there are different terminations), and interior connections. The screw mounted PEM's should be more robust for the hobbiest since holes don't need to be machined to quite so tight tolerances. The only other issue with PEM snap-in's is the mounting material dimension, i.e. most of them require a mounting panel that is less than .125 in..
Here's how I cut them: Mark location on panel, drill at least four holes (I like to get close to the corners) that will accept the size of jig saw bit used. I cut along the lines marked with a Bosch jig saw, staying inside the line. After cutting, I measure and proceed to file the edges using a traditional bastard file. The file makes quick work of smoothing and enlarging the hole to get an even and burr-free hole. I test fit the PEM into the hole (about 3/4 of the way so it doesn't catch the retaining strips), removing it to file the edges until it is an exact fit. Install the PEM, remember to add a fuse if you have a fused PEM.