quiet
Addicted Member
Party Hardy Baby.
Why is it.... (tops of EPI 200C speakers)
- Thread starter avguytx
- Start date
Party Hardy Baby.
quiet
Addicted Member
Thank you RTally.
avguytx
Lunatic Member
Tops before....
And after...
Some light sanding and Medium Walnut Watco Danish Oil lovin' on the cabinets and they're looking pretty sexy so far. Drivers are being cleaned up and foam taken off woofers as the new foam will be in later in the week. I removed the original terminals and zip tied the wires up high so they'll always be there. I also repainted the backs and bottoms in satin black which looks much better. They were a little scuffed. I'm going to cut a new small panel for the new binding posts and the capacitor to mount to ay some point before putting them back together. So far so good.
And after...
Some light sanding and Medium Walnut Watco Danish Oil lovin' on the cabinets and they're looking pretty sexy so far. Drivers are being cleaned up and foam taken off woofers as the new foam will be in later in the week. I removed the original terminals and zip tied the wires up high so they'll always be there. I also repainted the backs and bottoms in satin black which looks much better. They were a little scuffed. I'm going to cut a new small panel for the new binding posts and the capacitor to mount to ay some point before putting them back together. So far so good.
Beautiful. Nice work!
-Steve
-Steve
71Challenger
Super Member
Well done sir. Those are purty....
avguytx
Lunatic Member
Surrounds came in today so hopefully might have time tonight to start on those. Still waiting on the capacitors to come in so I can make the new binding post panel but I figure by the weekend. Then it will just be a matter of having the time to finish up; always got projects or something going on it seems. Still need to build those base cabinets in the garage so I have a counter to work with.
avguytx
Lunatic Member
Thank you guys. Overall, the cabinets were in good shape except for the tops. I'm thankful the veneer was all in good shape and a little light cleaning and sanding with 0000 steel wool took care of them before putting the oil on. I had to sand the back of one a little bit before I repainted as they were a little rougher to the touch than they needed to be. Bases were solid and not broken, too. Looking forward to hearing them.
Nice work on the cabinets. They look great. I have a nice pair of 200C myself. They were already refoamed when I bought them. I recapped and added new binding posts. They are great speakers, currently in use in my laptop system and as speaker stands for the rear surrounds in my HT. I also recapped and changed the binding posts on the EPI 180 pair that I bought already refoamed. They are now in my basement system.
avguytx
Lunatic Member
@classic carl Yep, I've read your posts before in searching for info about these. Funny that I just recently sold a pair of Genesis G10's that I'd had for maybe 12 years that never got used like they should...although they sounded quite nice. I've been more in a "moving things along" mode as I'm just tired of having a "collection" of gear around just to have and gather dust. No idea if I'll keep these as I doubt they are going to replace my two primary pairs of speakers, the Klipsch Belle inspired clones I built and a par of ads L1230's. I'm not one to put a different system in every room in the house....that's why I built an upstairs room. I need to get some walnut veneer and redo a pair of Dynaco A25's and a pair of Celestion Ditton 44 Series II's that have rough cabinets so I can move them along, too. Well, maybe, considering I've had those for 10+ years and maybe 2 hours of play time on either pair.
@avguytx I tried to sell the 180 pair a couple of times locally without any luck. They don't get used enough to keep them. Ideally, I'd like to haul them down to our condo in Florida, but they would take up too much room in the SUV. I could probably get more $$ for them if I parted out the 4 woofers and 4 tweets. They'd be easier to sell and ship, but I hate to do that to a working pair of speakers.
avguytx
Lunatic Member
@classic carl I know what you mean there. The old line, "the sum of the parts worth more than the whole" thing. I've got that with a few pairs of speakers I've deliberated doing that with as it would save me time and effort of veneer work with something I don't use. Turntables can be like that, too.
Fred DuBuron
Active Member
My approach is a bit different for my EPI restoration projects.
Shown is one of my M180V rebuilds. I currently have three EPI M180Vs
The first two came from upstate NY that my son was able to "uber" back after a trip to his inlaws. They were in awesome shape with blown woofer surrounds ($100)
The third one was a DUMP SAVE that a guy that lives in wealthy town haunts ($70). It also had blown surrounds, with a great cabinet, and a great grill. The fate of its mate is unknown... (moment of silence...)
On all my EPI builds, I like to retain the original masonite crossover boards with the EPI logo and writing... (I also include the last pic of my EPI M150W terminal plate to illustrate the effect)
Why do I do this? I want to preserve that original vintage look and the serial number labels.
From the back, only the new gold plated 5-way hook-up terminals (Parts Express 260-302) pop-riveted in (with backing washers) give away something is different. I also leave a folded copy of the wiring schematic inside for prosperity (Hey!, I'm not going to live forever, someone is going to end up with these, eventually open them up, and wonder what the hell all that wiring is for).
(NOTE: From the "Tweeters point of view" it makes no difference if the capacitor is on the NEG or POS side of the terminals. The use of the splice blocks is new with this build. I decided to try these after subjecting the wires connections to dissection, pulls, banging, and other forms of torture. Ths connections never failed. I tin the wires before insertion to add gripping power to the connection locks. So far they have worked flawlessly)
The rebuilt crossovers are secured with double-sided tape for an airtight seal with 5/8" screws used in each corner.
The final install is to add fiberfill over a layer of the original foam and a careful hand application of black paint between the surrounds and frame edge to subdue any shiny metal
Shown is one of my M180V rebuilds. I currently have three EPI M180Vs
The first two came from upstate NY that my son was able to "uber" back after a trip to his inlaws. They were in awesome shape with blown woofer surrounds ($100)
The third one was a DUMP SAVE that a guy that lives in wealthy town haunts ($70). It also had blown surrounds, with a great cabinet, and a great grill. The fate of its mate is unknown... (moment of silence...)
On all my EPI builds, I like to retain the original masonite crossover boards with the EPI logo and writing... (I also include the last pic of my EPI M150W terminal plate to illustrate the effect)
Why do I do this? I want to preserve that original vintage look and the serial number labels.
From the back, only the new gold plated 5-way hook-up terminals (Parts Express 260-302) pop-riveted in (with backing washers) give away something is different. I also leave a folded copy of the wiring schematic inside for prosperity (Hey!, I'm not going to live forever, someone is going to end up with these, eventually open them up, and wonder what the hell all that wiring is for).
(NOTE: From the "Tweeters point of view" it makes no difference if the capacitor is on the NEG or POS side of the terminals. The use of the splice blocks is new with this build. I decided to try these after subjecting the wires connections to dissection, pulls, banging, and other forms of torture. Ths connections never failed. I tin the wires before insertion to add gripping power to the connection locks. So far they have worked flawlessly)
The rebuilt crossovers are secured with double-sided tape for an airtight seal with 5/8" screws used in each corner.
The final install is to add fiberfill over a layer of the original foam and a careful hand application of black paint between the surrounds and frame edge to subdue any shiny metal
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