Will this Kenwood KD-500 ever spin again? Help!

[AlexanderEli]

This Kenwood turntable has a story... but I can't make it work. About a year ago I was heading up north to see my family and attend a funeral, and I thought I'd check the local Craigslist to see what was for sale. Lo and behold, this Kenwood KD-500 with SME Series III shows up for $200. I reach out, and after some dialogue, we come to an impasse due to scheduling conflicts. The nice gentlemen willingly drives an hour to drop this deck off with a friend of mine and accepts the money via PayPal, sight unseen, the day before I was in town. I was super grateful! I knew the deck didn't spin, but I figured it would be a repair I could handle.

I'm not an electronics guru, but I am always eager to learn more about audio circuits. I replaced all 4 electrolytic capacitors, (haven't tried contact cleaner or reflowing the solder joints yet, but I describe later it seems electricity is getting to the motor), but to no avail. Finally, I got frustrated, and put it away assuming it was hopeless.
New caps:

I've now taken up the task again, about a year later. I at least need to know what is wrong with this, it is driving me crazy. I can't find hardly any threads online where people have KD-500s that won't spin. That is a great testament to the build quality of these turntables, I must say. Quite frustrating too, since I am stuck. I found this thread on VinylEngine where someone offers some DVM tests, which I performed:
https://www.vinylengine.com/turntable_forum/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=38395&start=15

Here is the status:
When I plug in the turntable and turn on the power switch, the strobe turns on, and sometimes the spindle will rotate about 1/16 of a rotation before stopping. I have replaced all 4 electrolytic caps, and I have performed the voltage tests between points 12 and 13, and 14 and 16 (I have the type K&P board variant on the schematic) and both tests come out close to accurate. Interestingly, the voltage reading between points 14 and 16 reads at 12.5v AC, and when I spin the spindle by hand, it goes up to the 13.5v AC that was pointed out on that VE thread.
Additionally, when it is turned on, I feel more resistance when spinning the spindle by hand. So it seems that some power of some kind is getting to the motor.

At this point, I am starting to seriously think I have a fried motor.

HELP!

Are there any other tests I can perform?
If the motor is fried, can it be repaired?

Some of the solder looks like it could benefit from being reflowed/resoldered:

Motor with the cap removed:

 

[Nat]

You can lift the spindle out of the bearing if you remove the sensor (at 2 o'clock in the last picture). You might have congealed lubricants in the bearing -- I did, though less severe. Deoxiting the 4 pots is an obvious move if you haven't done it.

 

[Jeffery]

A word of caution, there is a similar cover on the bottom of the motor. You might have to pull the motor to get to the screws holding it on, but there is a fairly complex circuit board under the bottom cover. And several electrolytic on that board as well.

 

[Jota2]

I see this post is rather old and maybe the problem has been solved or the TT is sold. I think I read somewhere you MUST have the platter on the spindle. I think without the mass of the platter the motor can be damaged or goes into a protection mode to keep it from spinning. I could be wrong but maybe worth a try unless of course it wont spin with the platter on. :-(