Wow! Best $50. Tweak in a Long Time!!

[Splatter Pak]

I have my TT on top of a 5/8 inch thick slab of plexiglass, which rests on four Sorbothane pucks. It works for me.

 

[garpt]

Maple shade sells the wood platforms that are expensive.They also sell the isoblocks that are cork and rubber laminations.I made my own wood platform out of two pieces of 3/4" glued together and have it sitting on 4 isoblocks which are sitting on a patio block.The wood platform and isoblocks made a notable improvement and was inexpensive.
Dave

Well,Mapleshade sells what appears to be a very similar block for about $200 w/ 4 isoblocks. Mine has 4 skid-proof feet on it, but if you really want the isoblocks, Mapleshade has them for as low as $24.00. So, buy their isoblocks, the cutting board I found at Bed/ Bath, and save over $100.00:thmbsp:

 

[bobins08]

Well done – you’ve reduced acoustic feedback, which is one of the major differences in sound between turntables, and one of the few things which isn’t measured in a turntable’s specifications (because of a lack of standardisation of measuring techniques, not because it isn’t known about).

However, I must correct you on one thing you said. They aren’t isolating cones you have, they are coupling cones. Cones couple, springs isolate. Those who call them isolating cones are wrong – they have never isolated anything, because they are solid, so they transmit all vibration. They do help to reduce acoustic feedback, but it’s not because of isolation. The reason cones work well in conjunction with a very heavy shelf, is that they couple the turntable base directly to the heavy shelf, so that it’s like having a turntable which weighs the same as the turntable plus the heavy shelf. Heavy turntables require more energy to vibrate than light turntables (Joe Grado’s old turntable papers on the vinylengine forum articles section explain this well), and so acoustic feedback is reduced as weight increases.

Joe explained several other methods of achieving a similar result, such as an outer frame of 2”x4” wood around the outside of an existing turntable base. Heavy, almost solid, wood bases were also used by some turntable manufacturers (e.g. JVC) on their best turntables, in place of hollow box bases, for a similar reason.

That’s why your turntable sounds better now – in essence, you’ve got the best of both worlds – the cones coupling the outer base of the turntable to a heavy board help reduce vibration in that section of the turntable because of increased weight, while the isolation springs help isolate the tonearm and platter from any vibration left in the outer base.:thmbsp:

I have a nice set "isolation" cones from Dayton Audio that I use with my TD-160. They are the gold colored ones that thread into a puck-type of housing so that you can use them to level the turntable as well as spike the turntable to a thick board. They also come with metal pads that have a small indent in the center, you can to set the pointy end of the cone into this.

Would it be best to spike the cones directly into the thick board rather than setting them on the mounting pads? Given your explanation I am considering removing the mounting pads and leting the cone interface directly with the board.

thanks, Bob

 

[garpt]

I have a nice set "isolation" cones from Dayton Audio that I use with my TD-160. They are the gold colored ones that thread into a puck-type of housing so that you can use them to level the turntable as well as spike the turntable to a thick board. They also come with metal pads that have a small indent in the center, you can to set the pointy end of the cone into this.

Would it be best to spike the cones directly into the thick board rather than setting them on the mounting pads? Given your explanation I am considering removing the mounting pads and leting the cone interface directly with the board.

thanks, Bob

I have the same cones, Bob. Without question or reservation, remove the little gold "dimple cups" and have the spikes directly on the platform. I tried both, there is no question it is better this way.

-Gary

 

[ETI_5000]

Would it be best to spike the cones directly into the thick board rather than setting them on the mounting pads? Given your explanation I am considering removing the mounting pads and leting the cone interface directly with the board.

Yes. I think the mounting pads that go underneath the cones are more aimed at heavy speakers, so they don't mark polished wooden floors, for instance. Removing them would probably allow the cones to work better at coupling.

 

[bobins08]

I have the same cones, Bob. Without question or reservation, remove the little gold "dimple cups" and have the spikes directly on the platform. I tried both, there is no question it is better this way.

-Gary

You are correct. I removed the dimpled mounting pads that came with the cones and put the cones (spikes) directly on the thick board and viola --- more bass, deepr bass, better low end. I can hear the snare drum resonate deeper and the kick drum really pops.

Thank you and ETI 5000 for squeezing out another few ounces of peformance from my TD 160.

I love this turntable.

cheers, Bob

 

[garpt]

It's a great turntable, very rewarding to work on with all the available DIY mods, and they sound wonderful!
-Gary

 

[KOWHeigel]

This thread inspired me to dig through my basement to find my old solid maple cutting board that I retired because the cutting side had lost most of its sanitary sealed surface. However, it works great for setting my TT on. I may also try out the dayton audio isolation feet too.

Thanks all!

 

[hawkster27]

I have my TT on top of a 5/8 inch thick slab of plexiglass, which rests on four Sorbothane pucks. It works for me.

Greetings, Splatter. I have my TT [Denon DP-52F] sitting directly on Sorbothane pucks, but based on this thread I'm curious about your addition of Plexiglas. I can get a .5" x 18" x 16" sheet for $46, or a 1" for $64. Can you provide any more detail? What kind of improvement could I expect, if any? $46 - 64 worth?

 

[burlyb]

Nice work on the cutting board adaptation. Inspiration for me to do something similar with my TD160 - currently out of operation while I remodel the man cave.

For others interested in this, I found a company called Timber Nation that makes wood slabs for this purpose from cherry and maple in lots of sizes and thicknesses. No affiliation - just found them searching.

http://www.timbernation.com/pcake_popup.cfm

 

[hesson11]

Another whole octave of bass?

I really hate to doubt your claim, but given its audacity, I do kind of doubt your claim. But if it's any consolation, I'm glad you're so pleased!

-Bob

 

[garpt]

Another whole octave of bass?

I really hate to doubt your claim, but given its audacity, I do kind of doubt your claim. But if it's any consolation, I'm glad you're so pleased!

-Bob

Yes. An octave (or abouts)

With the additional low end created through my double SVS tower (cylinder) subs, (and as a musician (piano/ electronic keyboards) w/ experience in audio recording/ mixing), I can say assuredly I am hearing frequencies/ resonances of at least an octave lower (maybe more with harmonics???)- whether its Literally an octave? - approximately, could be more, could be less- but I doubt it. I don't have my studio equipment anymore to test it. We are talking about the lowest "heard" frequencies (around 20hz) as well as the lower frequencies which are now much more resonant and I'm "feeling" the bass.

In clearer terms, an octave is the interval between two points where the frequency at the second point is twice the frequency of the first. So, if I'm going down to 18-20 hz now, which my subs are quite capable of reproducing, and before the improvement I was at approx. 36 hz, which I believe is NOT out of the question, that would be an octave.....

Octave 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
Frequency (Hz) 63 125 250 500 1K 2K 4K 8K
Wavelength in air
(70oF, 21oC) (ft) 17.92 9.03 4.52 2.26 1.129 0.56 0.28 0.14
Wavelength in air
(70oF, 21oC) (m) 5.46 2.75 1.38 0.69 0.34 0.17 0.085 0.043

-Gary

 

[garpt]

(double post)

 

[hesson11]

Yes. An octave (or abouts)

With the additional low end created through my double SVS tower (cylinder) subs, (and as a musician (piano/ electronic keyboards) w/ experience in audio recording), I can say assuredly I am hearing resonances of at least an octave lower (maybe more with harmonics???)- whether its Literally an octave? - approximately, could be more, could be less. We are talking about the lowest "heard" frequencies (around 20hz) as well as the lower frequencies which are now much more resonant and I'm "feeling" the bass.

In clearer terms, an octave is the interval between two points where the frequency at the second point is twice the frequency of the first. So, if I'm going down to 18-20 hz now, which my subs are quite capable of reproducing, and before the improvement I was at approx. 36 hz, which I believe is NOT out of the question, that would be an octave.....

Octave 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
Frequency (Hz) 63 125 250 500 1K 2K 4K 8K
Wavelength in air
(70oF, 21oC) (ft) 17.92 9.03 4.52 2.26 1.129 0.56 0.28 0.14
Wavelength in air
(70oF, 21oC) (m) 5.46 2.75 1.38 0.69 0.34 0.17 0.085 0.043

-Gary

I know what an octave is, but given your claim, I was seriously wondering whether you did!

I can only say that I doff my cap. If I feel any rumbling when I'm in Ft. Lauderdale this weekend, I'll know where it's coming from!

-Bob

 

[riverrat373]

Turntable Base

I went to a local granite and marble supplier who cut and polished a 16"x17" piece of 3/4" granite for my turntable to sit on. Only cost me $30 and it makes a suburb base for my Denon DF300-F!

 

[triode4]

I have thought about trying yoga blocks under my turntable. They make them from solid cork or foam. I know cork has been used in ringmat for platter, wondering what others think of this idea.

 

[Guest101]

I headed to Bed & Bath and purchased their heaviest wooden cutting board. It is about 16"X18" square, and 2" thick. It is heavy. I replaced the tile with the cutting board. It IS significantly more solid. I did not expect, however, the difference in sound quality! Fuller, more weight, and about another octave of wonderful, tight bass, (one of my obsessions.) It is a dramatic difference, we are not talking like 5% better, we are like 20-30% better. Took me by surprise, for sure. I didn't expect THAT much of a difference!

I went from 1/2" oak veneered mdf, to 1-3/4" thick maple, and finally 3/4" manufactured marble which was substantially better than maple in my system. Much heavier and denser than maple. Sweeter highs, greater dynamics, better PRAT, and all-in-all the most musical in my system.

 

[LutherG1]

OK... long time lurker and new member here... love the site... sitting here late night listening to some Charles Lloyd through a Rotel 950 CD, Musical Fidelity V Dac and Kenwood KA-6100 - sweet... I am also starting newly acquired (used) Rega P3 which sits atop a pretty cheapo Best Buy stereo stand with the top piece of wood likely being no more than 3/8 inches think and no doubt some kind of particle board with faux wood look... the "tweak" idea of going to a granite supplier and getting a sufficient piece of granite cut OR getting a TOTL cutting board from Bed Bath is intriguing... would either indeed make a difference for the P3 and if so would it be cutting board or granite (or neither) that would deliver the sweetest stuff...

 

[Guest101]

would either indeed make a difference for the P3 and if so would it be cutting board or granite (or neither) that would deliver the sweetest stuff...

Short answer, yes. Granite is good. Acrylic and carbon fiber is better. Lots of info out there.

 

[Jon S]

The best I have seen was a wooden box filled with sand. A plastic sheet was placed over the sand and the turntable was placed on it. No resonance issues whatsoever. The only problem is that it is a bit harder to level out the turntable...