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Wpc

Robayb

Robayb

Active Member
I have a simple question about watts per channel. If an amp has 160 wpc and you want to use speakers that are rated for no more than120 wpc, is it safe if you don't crank it?
The real question is ...does the amp always output 160 wpc even at low volume, or does the volume dictate the wpc running through the speaker?
 
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No, the amp doesn't put out it's full power all the time, only when you max it out and even then it's questionable.

But, what you need to know is that you can play virtually any speaker with any amp as long as you use your ears and your head. Turn it up slowly. If it starts to sound strained, distorted, or just plain bad, turn it down immediately and don't turn it up beyond that point.
 
the skipper said:
No, the amp doesn't put out it's full power all the time, only when you max it out and even then it's questionable.

But, what you need to know is that you can play virtually any speaker with any amp as long as you use your ears and your head. Turn it up slowly. If it starts to sound strained, distorted, or just plain bad, turn it down immediately and don't turn it up beyond that point.
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As a follow up....does the wpc correspond to volume directly, so a 160 wpc amp at 50 percent volume will output 80wpc?
 
Robayb said:
As a follow up....does the wpc correspond to volume directly, so a 160 wpc amp at 50 percent volume will output 80wpc?
Click to expand...
If you are really worried about it then get an amp with power meters or you can even get some stand alone units that will tell you how much power is being put out. I know Radio Shack used to make a couple of those.
 
Watch out for burning tweeters out, especially. I was stupidly testing a new old tube amp out, and cranked it. Somehow I had it in my head that tube's don't emit the kind of distortion that burns speaker coils, and it is a fleawatt amp, so the sound level wasn't that loud, AND I ignored the distortion. Now a perfectly nice pair of attractive and nice-sounding Audio Pro 2.14 Swedish bookshelf speakers relegated to the repair pile.
 
One has pretty good tools built in, if you just pay attention to them.

If something doesn't sound quite right turn it down.

If the sound takes on a slightly harsh or edgy quality, or starts to sound sorta "flat" (as in loses the dynamics) are some signs the amp may be clipping. If your speakers make clunking or popping sounds you're asking the speakers to do what they are not happy doing. Those are all signs to back off the volume or turn down the bass or whatever.

If your system can't get you the volume you want without things like that happening, you need more rig for the gig.
 
The ear is not linear, It works by geometric progression. So it takes 10 times as much power to sound twice as loud. Un less you have a trained ear the smallest change in sound you can hear with out having reference to compare to is usually 3 db. So everytime you increase the volume by a small detectable hear difference you are doubling the power required. So if you have a record with small dynamic recorded a a less than average level you may find your self with the volume control at the 12:00 o'clock position. Yet another record with large dynamics and recorded at a higher level the control maybe be at only a 9:30 to 10:00 volume setting. The one with the large dynamic range is the one you have to look out for. Because if your amp clips you are creating 10 to 20 times the HF energy that would be there naturally possibly destroying your tweeter diaphragms or cone voice coils.
 
I wouldn't worry. Just minimize clipping. You'll know when it starts sounding "edgy".

I use a 300 watt/channel Ncore amp driving vintage New Advents. :)
 
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