I recaped my old 1010 and for your convenience here is the elko's list. I did not replace the tantalium of phono section as they are still fine. Many electrolityc were leaking and measurement were not as expected - and yes, when anti bump delay increases it is time to recap ;-), suprisingly the pwr filtering big ones are still in good shape after 40 years. I replaced the 4 trimmer of bias adj with multiturn ones: better handling. My advice: turn amp on (dummy load on out, decoupled) wait 30 minutes and start setting B class, switch to A set it, switch back to B and adj and so on until you find most stable and precise combination - it really remains in 1mV tollerance at the end! Another advice: group the screws by section, they are different even if they look similar, always tighten them manually. The most challenging job was cleaning and lube switches and pots, it was not necessary but to replace capacitors I had to disassemble all, so why not - this amplifier never stopped working since I bought it second hand in 1990, decoupler excluded, all knobs and switches have been turned or selected - that was always my obsession from PA service days: rolling pots gathers no crackles. I did not replace fuse resistors as they were fine, even paste between finals and dissipator is good. It is always a pleasure to look the interiors of this old fashion hancrafted machines, they are so "human" - no robots assembled them, only a pair of hands solderered, wrapped wires, bent cables, tightened screws, centered knobs with a 7 Allen, all section are separated, wired, tied - my Honor digital watch is by far more precise than a Omega but has no fashion inside (and outside)
This is original list, if you buy from local stores or places like Conrad (you can order even one piece):
18.000 uF 63V x2 (hard to find capacitance, can replace with a 22.000 uF)
330 uF 63V x2
220 uF 80V x2
1000 uF 6.3V x4
220 uF 25V x1
100 uF 25V x4
47 uF 50V x4
10 uF 50V x2
100 uF 16V x2
47 uF 35V x4
47 uF 16V x2
22 uF 25V x1
4.7 uF 25V x2
33 uF 6.3V x2
10 uF 35V x2
1 uF 80V x8
3.3 uF 50V x4
1 uF 50V x2
2.2 uF 25V x2
10 uF 16V x2
Trimmer 2,2 kOhm (replaced with multiturn 2k)
Here is a grouped list if you buy from Farell, Rs (minimum quantiy 10) - as the nowadays capacitors are (sometimes drammatically) smaller so dimensions are not an issue:
47 uF 50V x10
10 uF 50V x6
1 uF 80V x10
100 uF 25V x6
220 uF 80V x3
330 uF 63V x2
1000 uF 6.3V x4
22 uF 25V x1
4.7 uF 25V x2
33 uF 6.3V x2
3.3 uF 50V x4
2.2 uF 25V x2
18.000 uF 63V x2
All original caps were standard consumer Nichicon 85° so even a chinese nowaday capacitor is better - if you buy from Farell, Rs, Conrad etc. even the cheaper ones, they are all from well known brands like Matsushita/Panasonic, Nichicon, Elsa, Jamicon, Teaco etc. really you don't need to look after some fancy "Audio grade"! All capacitors I received (mostly Panasonic black, some Nichicon, Jamicon, Chemicon, Yageo, all 105°) were below 5% tollerance even if sold for 20%. Avoid low ESR, they dry out or leak faster, is not needed and may be counterproductive in a completly linear design as a 1010 is. If you want you can replace the tantalium with electrolytic ones but imho I see no reason why: the low voltage and the enviromental temperatures are constant and back in those days they put a far more expensive part for a reason - they don't leak and don't dry out, the main disadvange of tantalium is voltage, in this case it makes no sense as only a few mV pass through - the only tant I have seen failing was for a short circuit - I balced MC amp just because I was at a friends desk with a spectrum analyzer ... and I don't use MC cartridges!.
This is original list, if you buy from local stores or places like Conrad (you can order even one piece):
18.000 uF 63V x2 (hard to find capacitance, can replace with a 22.000 uF)
330 uF 63V x2
220 uF 80V x2
1000 uF 6.3V x4
220 uF 25V x1
100 uF 25V x4
47 uF 50V x4
10 uF 50V x2
100 uF 16V x2
47 uF 35V x4
47 uF 16V x2
22 uF 25V x1
4.7 uF 25V x2
33 uF 6.3V x2
10 uF 35V x2
1 uF 80V x8
3.3 uF 50V x4
1 uF 50V x2
2.2 uF 25V x2
10 uF 16V x2
Trimmer 2,2 kOhm (replaced with multiturn 2k)
Here is a grouped list if you buy from Farell, Rs (minimum quantiy 10) - as the nowadays capacitors are (sometimes drammatically) smaller so dimensions are not an issue:
47 uF 50V x10
10 uF 50V x6
1 uF 80V x10
100 uF 25V x6
220 uF 80V x3
330 uF 63V x2
1000 uF 6.3V x4
22 uF 25V x1
4.7 uF 25V x2
33 uF 6.3V x2
3.3 uF 50V x4
2.2 uF 25V x2
18.000 uF 63V x2
All original caps were standard consumer Nichicon 85° so even a chinese nowaday capacitor is better - if you buy from Farell, Rs, Conrad etc. even the cheaper ones, they are all from well known brands like Matsushita/Panasonic, Nichicon, Elsa, Jamicon, Teaco etc. really you don't need to look after some fancy "Audio grade"! All capacitors I received (mostly Panasonic black, some Nichicon, Jamicon, Chemicon, Yageo, all 105°) were below 5% tollerance even if sold for 20%. Avoid low ESR, they dry out or leak faster, is not needed and may be counterproductive in a completly linear design as a 1010 is. If you want you can replace the tantalium with electrolytic ones but imho I see no reason why: the low voltage and the enviromental temperatures are constant and back in those days they put a far more expensive part for a reason - they don't leak and don't dry out, the main disadvange of tantalium is voltage, in this case it makes no sense as only a few mV pass through - the only tant I have seen failing was for a short circuit - I balced MC amp just because I was at a friends desk with a spectrum analyzer ... and I don't use MC cartridges!.
