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Yamaha CR-1020 Makes popping sound, loses sound, then comes back on.

IowaFightFan

IowaFightFan

Active Member
I've got a Yamaha CR-1020 receiver that will be working just fine, then it will suddenly make a popping noise, the sound out put goes out for about 5-10 seconds, then it pops again and comes back on. The lights stay on, so it's not losing power completely .

Any ideas?
 

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It does make a popping sound shortly after it's turned on as well, that can be heard through the speakers. I've not tried on any other inputs, I'm just using the tuner.
 
This is most likely the death throes of an electrolytic capacitor. Unlike tube receivers, you have a lot of them in there. Let us know which mode this happens in - AM, FM, aux, phono, tape or whatever because this may localize the problem.
 
amptramp said:
This is most likely the death throes of an electrolytic capacitor. Unlike tube receivers, you have a lot of them in there. Let us know which mode this happens in - AM, FM, aux, phono, tape or whatever because this may localize the problem.
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I've only tried it on FM Tuner. I don't have any other components hooked up to it currently. I did move the speakers from A to B, just to eliminate that it was a certain channel.
 
Tap around on the top, front, LH side, power supply board. Listen for Pops or other noises. Sounds like cold solder connections. Or a transistor acting up.
 
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avionic said:
Tap around on the top, front, LH side, power supply board. Listen for Pops or other noises. Sounds like cold solder connections. Or a transistor acting up.
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Cold solder joint was actually my first guess as well, but I just had no idea where to start. I've mainly worked on older console stereos in the past, which have way less components and much more room to work with.
 
It's not a guarantee. But a good place to start. 1st Step in troubleshooting. Verify you have a functional, stable, power supply.
 
The CR-1020 and 2020 have had. More than once or twice. Had cold solder connections on both the power supply board and the electrolytic board.Especially the molex connector that connects the two.
 
There were definitely some leaking caps on the top board. I haven't taken the power board out yet to check the solder joints, but it looks like at least one of the caps on that board has leaked as well.

There are two, 3-prong transistors on the top board that have a brown stain around their base as well. Do they normally leak?
 

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That is glue, not leakage.

Check the solder joints of the connector where the two power supply boards connect.

I usually re-solder those and replace the two regulators.

Rob
 
Robisme said:
That is glue, not leakage.

Check the solder joints of the connector where the two power supply boards connect.

I usually re-solder those and replace the two regulators.

Rob
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I thought maybe glue too, except it's only under the one capacitor on the top board, and though may may not be able to see it well in the picture, one side of the resistor that's directly next to that capacitor is completely covered in corrosion. It's terrible.

Which two regulators do you replace?
 
avionic said:
It's not a guarantee. But a good place to start. 1st Step in troubleshooting. Verify you have a functional, stable, power supply.
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Avionic, wouldn't a measure of the DC offset be a good starting point? Not questioning your Yamaha "Legendary" status, just wondering.
 
Hajidub said:
Avionic, wouldn't a measure of the DC offset be a good starting point? Not questioning your Yamaha "Legendary" status, just wondering.
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If I thought it would be a good fruitfull starting point. I would have suggested it......
Besides we already know there is excessive DC there every now and then. What do you think is making the popping noise?

IowaFightFan said:
I've got a Yamaha CR-1020 receiver that will be working just fine, then it will suddenly make a popping noise, the sound out put goes out for about 5-10 seconds, then it pops again and comes back on. The lights stay on, so it's not losing power completely .

Any ideas?
Click to expand...
 
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avionic said:
Tap around on the top, front, LH side, power supply board. Listen for Pops or other noises. Sounds like cold solder connections. Or a transistor acting up.
Click to expand...

IowaFightFan said:
There were definitely some leaking caps on the top board. I haven't taken the power board out yet to check the solder joints, but it looks like at least one of the caps on that board has leaked as well.
Click to expand...

Did you even try the tapping I suggested? A bad solder connection will likely pop every time you tap and makes it fairly easy to locate the component that's loose.
 
IowaFightFan said:
Yes, changing from channel A to Channel B made no difference. Same exact issue on both channels .
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Both channels. I am refering to Left channel and right channel. Not Speaker A or B or C. Left is going to be left no matter which set you select.
 
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