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Yamaha CR-2020 won't power off

DurhamSud

DurhamSud

Member
Well this one has me stumped!

I was installing the front panel lights on the Yamaha CR-2020 yesterday. As I soldered the third light, I powered it up to test it and since then the unit no longer powers off. I flick the switch up and down and it stays on regardless. It worked just fine before.

Any ideas about what could have happened to the switch and how I can get it to power off again would be greatly appreciated.
 
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The switch took a ****, contacts are probably welded closed. It's a common issue on the 2020 from what I've been told.
 
no, I think that your switch (black part) is disconnected from the power on/off lever . As you can't move the switch (inside) you can't switch off ! same system on many old units ! (B2, C2 ...C1...and some other )
 
bktheking can you please elaborate on what you mean by "The switch took a ****"?

clinic-audio I'll have to check if the switch is in fact disconnected from the lever.

Thanks.
 
My CR-2020 had its switch replaced by the original owner and had the service bulletins done. Although it works fine, I still don't use it - I leave it in the on position and turn my equipment on and off from my Belkin PF60 power conditioner.
 
Thank you all for your responses, but they don't really address my initial question, which is how could soldering a lamp affect the power switch?

The switch was working just fine, and then I soldered one lamp (the third from the left IIRC) and then powered it up and it has not wanted to power off ever since.
 
Check over your work area within the unit. Solder blob or wire clipping could be shorting the power switch contacts.
As clinic audio stated. Check the physical condition of the power switch (the backside of the switch) It may have coincidentally came apart while you were replacing the lamp.
 
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DurhamSud said:
Thank you all for your responses, but they don't really address my initial question, which is how could soldering a lamp affect the power switch?

The switch was working just fine, and then I soldered one lamp (the third from the left IIRC) and then powered it up and it has not wanted to power off ever since.
Click to expand...

Could be a case of Post hoc ergo propter hoc (after this, therefore because of this). This is a common logical fallacy that gets us into trouble from time to time. Don't disregard the possibility that the switch simply failed coincidentally with your lamp replacement. Anyhow, the first thing i would do is test the switch with a meter.
 
slow_jazz said:
I have the CR-2040 and every now and then the button will get stuck and not disengage.

Bad design.
Click to expand...
Or.. the front faceplate needs to be centered..Power Button could be binding just a tad on the side of the faceplate.
 
Hopefully it just came apart and you can fix it. If the contacts are welded together, it may be too late for a triac switch protector....but if you get it fixed, consider installing one. I am planing on installing one in every amp I own.
Thanks Dave! for making me aware of it :thumbsup:
 
Thank you all for your responses.

I opened it up and could find no apparent problems. The switch did not disengage nor did I accidentally solder anything together that I should not have. I have been using a power bar switch to power on and off but recently, this has technique has had its troubles as well. A couple of times after switching on the power bar the unit will not come out of protection mode and then a humming sound ensues. After slapping the unit a couple of times it finally comes out of protection mode and then works fine until I power it off again. So I am thinking that the problem is graver than I had thought.

If anybody has any suggestions as to what I can do it would be greatly appreciated.

Please note that I have a power meter and some soldering skills but that's about it. I can take simple (explicit) advice if it is explained in a way even a six-year old can understand...

If possible, I would like to look into repairing it myself, but will bring it to someone if I am way over my head.

Thank you!
 
If "slapping is involved" I would be looking for bad/cold solder connections. Most likely the series pass transistors in the regulated power supplie(s). On the top PS board.
 
Thanks for the service bulletins avionic. I would love to do them myself but they are unfortunately Chinese to me... Can you help me to locate the series pass transistors in the regulated power supplie(s) in the image supplied?


DSCN1084.JPG
 
Warning received EchoWars.

The bad solder connections I can deal with. Lifting the top PS board though is a bitch. Any tips? I unscrewed the two screws and tried prying the board up but it is very tight. Do I need to disassemble anything else?
 
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