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Yamaha CR-620 lamp power issue

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bmk12000

New Member
I'm not super sophisticated with this stuff but I've owned a CR-620 for seven or eight years and have replaced the lamps multiple times. This time I decided to do LED's. Before they went out the last time, lamps #1 and #3 plus the tuner lamp all worked (#2 never has). Here's what happened:

1. Started on the three side lamps (signal strength etc windows), plugged back in to test, #1 and #3 worked but #2 did not, as expected. So far so good.

2. Started on the tuner lamp, tested the new LED, no dice, swapped the wires, no dice again -- and now all of them went out, and then the entire unit wouldn't even power on.

3. Saw that the 1a fuses blew and replaced those -- which worked to get power back on and sound is all working.

Now I'm back to where I started (though during this I managed to break the tuner string, FML), with no lamps on though all are connected and fuses are all new. What could I have done here to mess this up, and what can I try to fix it? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
 
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Welcome aboard bmk

Your going to need 4 LED's and 4 ballast resistors. Have you got those ?
 
What is the part number or link for the LED's your using ?
 
The lamps power source in the CR-620 is AC . LED's work best with DC.
 
- Instructions on how to install the bulbs (video, you will receive a link)

Do you have the link...

The LED's from EBAY may already have the resistors installed..
 
avionic said:
The lamps power source in the CR-620 is AC . LED's work best with DC.
Click to expand...

In the many CR-620 that I saw, the lamp circuit was DC powered. There was approximately +21VDC at terminal L1, from capacitor C804, and 0V (ground) at terminal L4.

BMK, your fuses blew because your LEDs (40$ for 5 LEDs is pure robbery IMO) get shorted without current limiting resistors. Lamps are connected in series, 2 by 2. Terminals L2 and L3 are just junction points for two lamps. I suspect that one of your lamp is connected directly between L1 and L4.
 
ecluser said:
In the many CR-620 that I saw, the lamp circuit was DC powered. There was approximately +21VDC at terminal L1, from capacitor C804, and 0V (ground) at terminal L4.

BMK, your fuses blew because your LEDs (40$ for 5 LEDs is pure robbery IMO) get shorted without current limiting resistors. Lamps are connected in series, 2 by 2. Terminals L2 and L3 are just junction points for two lamps. I suspect that one of your lamp is connected directly between L1 and L4.
Click to expand...

thank you - so what do i need to do here? where would i get a current limiting resistor? also - the lamps are connected now, and no fuse is blowing (but no lamp is on). is that a good sign or a bad one?
 
avionic said:
LED's are probably burnt up or installed backwards or another blown fuse again ...

What color are you going for ?
Click to expand...

the white of these led’s is fine for now … i know i can check polarity of the lamps w/ a 9v battery but how do i know the polarity of the wires? three are white/red and the tuner lamp is red/red, and when i did get the lamps on they were not consistent in terms of which lamp wire (black + red) went to which amp wire …

still wondering what the resistor thing is all about but maybe what you’re saying is if i get these lined up properly that won’t matter…

appreciate all the help, you guys are awesome
 
bmk12000 said:
the white of these led’s is fine for now … i know i can check polarity of the lamps w/ a 9v battery but how do i know the polarity of the wires? three are white/red and the tuner lamp is red/red, and when i did get the lamps on they were not consistent in terms of which lamp wire (black + red) went to which amp wire …

still wondering what the resistor thing is all about but maybe what you’re saying is if i get these lined up properly that won’t matter…

appreciate all the help, you guys are awesome
Click to expand...
White LED's operating voltage is usually around 3.2 v. If your trying to connect to a 21 vdc source you need a resistor to drop the 21vdc to 3.2 vdc @ approx 20ma.. Even a 9v battery is enough voltage to damage the white LED.
 
bmk12000 said:
just picked up a multimeter and gonna try this again, will report back. ebay dude said they do have resistors.
Click to expand...

got a multimeter but it’s giving me zeros when i touch the wires, in any configuration … is it possible i fried the power in the actual board for the lights?
 
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