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Yamaha M-65 Woes

Joey3000

New Member
Greetings!

I picked this amp up cheap, however it was sitting in a storage unit in the hot Phoenix, AZ weather for "at least 10 years". The amped worked though and sounded pretty good considering. I decided to restore the old girl and bring her back to her former glory. I did this in steps over time.

First I replaced the big 4 filter caps as they where super bulged up on the ends with 4 x 380LX333M050A082. After replacing them I used the amp a few hours daily for about a week with no issues and was really liking the sound of this thing. Sweet.

Next I replaced the binding posts in the back because I cant stand those types of connections and it was missing 2 of the screw on caps. After upgrading those to some nice 5 ways, I again used the amp a couple/few hours a day for about two weeks, no issues. Sweet.

Then I went ahead and replaced the small 30 or so capacitors on the board, mostly with nichicon UKT/UKA and some gold UFG. The amp sounded wonderful, better than my Denon POA-2400(still all original) and I decided to keep it as my main amp instead of the Denon.

After almost 2 weeks of daily usage one day I turned the amp on as normal and about 10 seconds later a horrible sound came through my speakers. I ran to the amp and turned it off then un pluged it from the wall, I didn't see smoke but I could smell it. The amp was now in protection mode. Not sweet....

Took it to my bench and found that the R142 22ohm resistor on the right channel had burned up for some reason. I proceeded to test literally everything, all transistors big and small, all 8 small diodes, all surrounding resistors, etc. Nothing is shorted or anything that I can find that would cause this resistor to burn up. I read a few other topics here on AK of similar issue, but nothing conclusive as to what is causing this to burn up. I cleaned all the old glue(what a pain) from the nearby 1000/80 caps off the board, rails, and surrounding areas while doing the recap before.

I decided to replace it with a metal film 22ohm, not a flame proof one. The amp worked and sounded fine on a cheap test speaker, however whenever I would turn the amp on, a small poof of smoke would come out of the resistor along with a small flash. It would do this every time the amp was powered on but the amp would work. For about 5 mins anyway then the resistor would completely burn out and unit would go back in protect mode.

The only thing that seems to test kind of weird are the very large diodes near the back by the 4 large caps. While they all read around .44v, when you reverse the polarity of test leads when testing, the left ones go from .7v and climb up slowly while the right ones go from 2.8v and climb up slowly. This is the only out of norm thing I can seem to find here but I am not sure if this is something to be concerned about.

I went ahead and attached some pictures of those diodes, completed board after recap, and the upgraded terminals.

Sorry for the big wall o' text but wanted to give as much info as I could here. Any help would be greatly appreciated as I am beyond stumped. And frustrated :(
 

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Ask a mod via the report function to move this to the Yamaha sub-forum. You'll get more expert eyes on it there.
 
So something downstream of R142 is drawing too much current

Think there is a typo in the sm since R142 should be for the right channel???
Using the schematic as is, check for signs of heat stress on R100,R127,R139.
Don't work on these units, others will know...
 
I took some closer pictures of the area, looks like there may be some corrosion in that area?

Should I pop those out and clean them better? What about the copper rail? I guess it wouldn’t hurt?
 

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I took some closer pictures of the area, looks like there may be some corrosion in that area?

Should I pop those out and clean them better? What about the copper rail? I guess it wouldn’t hurt?
They look okay to me … check the solder side for cold/broken solder joints or any damaged traces … look closely with a magnifying glass, some cracks are hard to see.
 
Update: I spent hours going through every little inch of the board. I replaced the two corroded looking jumpers near the resistor. I did find one of the transistor legs on that same right side was touching a film resistor on one side. Also I am pretty sure one of the big filter caps on the right side, a leg I think had came loose or had very poor contact. Not sure which one of these was the issue as I had fixed all of them and then started testing again. But none the less she is back in action, sounds great and no issues after a 2 hour session and normal listening volume. Sweeeet.

A huge Thank you to everyone who chimed in here, being an AK member is priceless!
 
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Check or replace TR119.

If that's not it...the usual suspects are TR123, 121, 115, 113. But...I'd swap these diodes first due to apathy, D119 & D100. It's hard to measure uncontrolled currents aside from magic smoke so I hit the diodes first for the ease of procedure, then hit the trannies as a last call.

Esoteric redneckisms
 
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Where did you find those binding posts?
I got them on Amazon, they are the “Large-Short” ones:

 
I got them on Amazon, they are the “Large-Short” ones:


Did you just wire them in? Does that PCB not serve anything? Was it a PITA or not so bad?
 
Did you just wire them in? Does that PCB not serve anything? Was it a PITA or not so bad?
The PCB does nothing really but hold the original plugs. All around it was very easy and as far as wiring assuming you have the manual so you know what color does what as far as A/B/C you just solder them directly to the back of the new plugs.

The only hard part I guess is creating the plastic piece from scratch for the new plugs to mount to, getting all 12 holes lined up. Send me a message I took a bunch of pictures I can send you.
 
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