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Yamaha NS-344 Crossover

T

Texas Blues

Active Member
For those interested, here is a picture of the crossover in my Yamaha NS-344 speakers.
Capacitor values are.......
160V 2.5M (2500mf?)
50V 3.3mf
50V 18mf
50V 47mf
I would like to thank the guys who built these things at the factory, for gluing down the crossover board to the back wall of the speaker. Even with the screws out you cannot pull the board out. Maybe I can without breaking it, but I'll probably just reach in there and replace the caps where they are. After removing all the insulation, its a straight shot behind the woofer. These cabinets seem pretty well built. Trying to get this one to stop throwing my amp into protect mode on that channel (and other amps it's been hooked to). Thanks, TB

DSCF0362-1_zps4a9e929a.jpg


DSCF0361_zpsd3256d39.jpg
 
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Hello,

As I´m in the process of replacing the crossover caps in my Yamaha NS-344s, I´m wondering if the "2.5M 160V" cap is a 2500mf or a 2.5mf cap.

Did you finally replaced the caps in your Yamaha NS-344s?

Thank you.

Daniel
 
2500 uf (microfarads) is a high value for a crossover, but not impossible. I can see in the pic above that it says 2.5M. Normally I would interpret that as 2.5 uf. One would have to look at a schematic to know for sure. Unless someone else happens along who knows.

It's also curious that this cap is rated at 160V and all the others are 50V. That suggests they expected it to have more power applied to it.
 
Could not find a schematic on the web. Actually it's not hard to draw one, but if you don't know how, the pic at the top is enough for me to draw one if I knew where all the colors of wires went. Knowing where that cap is in the circuit would clarify what the value should be.

It also occurs to me that the M may indicate 20% tolerance, so it's not a capacitance unit at all. Which might make more sense, since M is not a standard cap unit. They are usually marked 'uf'. Or not at all, as in this case, perhaps.
 
Last edited:
toxcrusadr said:
Could not find a schematic on the web. Actually it's not hard to draw one, but if you don't know how, the pic at the top is enough for me to draw one if I knew where all the colors of wires went. Knowing where that cap is in the circuit would clarify what the value should be.

It also occurs to me that the M may indicate 20% tolerance, so it's not a capacitance unit at all. Which might make more sense, since M is not a standard cap unit. They are usually marked 'uf'. Or not at all, as in this case, perhaps.
Click to expand...

Thank you so much for your help.

Attached you will find a picture of my crossover with indications where the wires go.

W = Woofer
MW = Mid Woofer
T = Tweeter
HLP = High Level Pot
MLP = Mid Level Pot

Again, thank you very much.

mt6rkl.jpg
 
Not seeing your pic mv. Check to make sure it is under the posting size limits after adding your labels.
 
I too wish to thank the ESS AMT 10 builders who glued their x-overs to the side wall of the cabinets. After some very tight hammer and chisel work I did manage to break them out in pieces! Love it when that happens too!
I built new boards reusing their inductors and came out with a much better sounding speaker!
Do not be afraid to get in there and get phisical.....worked out fine for me! Good luck any way you go......
DC
 
Try this. Click on the Go Advanced button under the Reply window. On the toolbar, click on the mountain icon. Paste the URL of your photo into the dialogue box. Your photo will load from the remote location and show up in your post.
 
If you have a capacitance meter you could disconnect the 2.5M cap and measure it. If its for the HLP/tweeter it could be a 2.5uF (mfd)
 
dc270 said:
I too wish to thank the ESS AMT 10 builders who glued their x-overs to the side wall of the cabinets.....................................................................................................................................................................................................................
DC
Click to expand...

In most cases the glue, or more likely hot melt glue, can be softened with isopropanol (rubbing alcohol). Then all you have to do is gently pry it off with a small flat screw driver. No grunt work necessary.
 
Picture again.

Also you might check "Attached Thumbnails" out at the bottom.

mt6rkl.jpg
 

Attachments

  • NS-344 CROSSOVER.jpg
    NS-344 CROSSOVER.jpg
    158.3 KB · Views: 19
Realized I forgot to help you out with a schematic after you posted the pic. Glad to do it if you still need it. However on the labeled diagram the + and - inputs are not labeled. There are two extra wires (a white and a black) that may be them. Or, on second thought, it's the two connection points in the center of the board? I'm guessing there are terminals on the other side of those. Which brings us back to why the white and black wires are doubled.
 
toxcrusadr said:
Realized I forgot to help you out with a schematic after you posted the pic. Glad to do it if you still need it. However on the labeled diagram the + and - inputs are not labeled. There are two extra wires (a white and a black) that may be them. Or, on second thought, it's the two connection points in the center of the board? I'm guessing there are terminals on the other side of those. Which brings us back to why the white and black wires are doubled.
Click to expand...

Picture attached with inputs labeled as:

"R" = Red = +
"B" = Black = -

As I can see those white and black wires are doubled because:

1 White goes to Mid Woofer;

1 White goes to the Mid Level Pot;

1 Black goes to the Tweeter;

1 Black High Level Pot;

Appreciate very much your help.

Thank you.
 

Attachments

  • NS-344 CROSSOVER.jpg
    NS-344 CROSSOVER.jpg
    157.6 KB · Views: 23
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