I was wanting to Re-Cap with original Nichicon Electrolytic Caps. I have already changed original to PEPT Polyprophylene but was wanting to try original in new condition to maintain proper values as the originals increase with age. Can't seem to find a supplier also cant find 3.5uf anywhere ( i put 2 x 1.7 PEPT in). Would prefer to get 3.5uf instead of bridging. Also might look into the Mundorf Silver/Gold/Oil Capacitor they look really good. Did Yamaha get it right with Electrolytic? Is it just because values change the sound over age that people change to Poly without trying original? Any thoughts most appreciated.
Yamaha NS1000 Capacitors
- Thread starter hugomac
- Start date
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I pulled the X'overs out of mine and measured all of the components with an ESI bridge. All were within a percent of stated value including the oversized BP electrolitics. I'm not saying they couldn't benefit from a recap but I'm quite comfortable with what I found. To my ears they sound fantastic as is. 
:tresbon:
For what it's worth here's some Yamaha advertising on the X'overs.
:tresbon:For what it's worth here's some Yamaha advertising on the X'overs.
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Frank Valdor
"High Power Monitor 1000"
I finally took the leep and recapped my NS-1000M's a week ago and bought the same values as a fellow over at another forum and I must say I am truly satisfied with the sound. Much more natural and open! Bass tighter. I haven't measured the old caps, but my ears can tell they were not a-ok.
I did one speaker first and compared it with the other. I used Audyn caps.
Oh, by he way: be sure to replace the speaker terminals with sturidier ones.
I did one speaker first and compared it with the other. I used Audyn caps.
Oh, by he way: be sure to replace the speaker terminals with sturidier ones.
Frank Valdor
"High Power Monitor 1000"
According to Hifi World the NS-1000's are forward in the mids and suggests a -3 db mids setting. I want my beloved 1000's to sound as accurate as possible...
What are your thoghts on that?
http://www.hi-fiworld.co.uk/hfw/oldeworldehtml/yamahans1000m.html
What's the optimal settings (not taking in the room in account).
What are your thoghts on that?
http://www.hi-fiworld.co.uk/hfw/oldeworldehtml/yamahans1000m.html
What's the optimal settings (not taking in the room in account).
Will you be measuring the old ones? It would be interesting to see what you find. The important thing is that you're happy with what you're hearing. :thmbsp:
Does that make them sound better too ... sturdier sounding perhaps? I did that to mine and couldn't hear a difference. Maybe my ears are shot. :scratch2:
Frank Valdor
"High Power Monitor 1000"
Yeah I'll probably measure the caps when I get the chance. It will be a first for me though - I'm no engineer.
First and foremost I did it because of useability - the old ones had trouble keeping the wire in place. However, when me & my mates changed the terminals we did notice an improvement when listening side by side.
But that could be due to a change in placement, placebo or whatever.
OT: I've been away from AK for some time, I need to update my equipment list!
First and foremost I did it because of useability - the old ones had trouble keeping the wire in place. However, when me & my mates changed the terminals we did notice an improvement when listening side by side.
But that could be due to a change in placement, placebo or whatever.
OT: I've been away from AK for some time, I need to update my equipment list!
Shonver
Audiophiliac
For this reason I, too, would recommend replacing the terminals.
shortcuttomo
Active Member
Could u put that in a graph pls kthxbye
Arkay
Lunatic Member
I fully intend to replace the terminals when I get around to it.. it's too easy to short-out the wire connections with the existing ones, given the kind of plug-ends I'm using (Cardas). I stick hand-cut blocks of foam between the wires to prevent any accidental shorts, but still I'm not comfortable with that. I'd like to get 5-way connectors in there. Has anyone here tried the ones sold on eBay? I've thought about them, but after shipping, etc... I think I'd be just as well off making my own from locally-sourced parts. In fact, I think I still have good spare connectors in a parts box!
I'm also curious about the people who add (or sell for others to add) fuzes to their systems, to protect the tweeters. I'm not sure how or why anyone's tweeters go bad on these; mine take everything I throw at them with aplomb; the NS-1000 seems to me to be a very capable and robust speaker. Granted, driver replacement is something I don't want to face, but is a fuse really necessary? Are those drivers really that fragile, when powered with capable amps?
As for crossovers, I don't hear any problems with mine that I can attribute to capacitor issues; they sound VERY good as-is. It's hard to imagine them improving very much in accuracy, at least. Still, short of the "self-healing" caps used in the higher models of this series, I imagine any/all electrolytic caps worsen over time, so at some point I will recap mine. Hopefully it will be one of those "a veil has lifted, that I hadn't even realized was there" kind of moments.
Despite having read various NS-1000 recap threads in the past, I'm looking forward to following this one!
I'm also curious about the people who add (or sell for others to add) fuzes to their systems, to protect the tweeters. I'm not sure how or why anyone's tweeters go bad on these; mine take everything I throw at them with aplomb; the NS-1000 seems to me to be a very capable and robust speaker. Granted, driver replacement is something I don't want to face, but is a fuse really necessary? Are those drivers really that fragile, when powered with capable amps?
As for crossovers, I don't hear any problems with mine that I can attribute to capacitor issues; they sound VERY good as-is. It's hard to imagine them improving very much in accuracy, at least. Still, short of the "self-healing" caps used in the higher models of this series, I imagine any/all electrolytic caps worsen over time, so at some point I will recap mine. Hopefully it will be one of those "a veil has lifted, that I hadn't even realized was there" kind of moments.
Despite having read various NS-1000 recap threads in the past, I'm looking forward to following this one!
Mine are the ebay type; not the absolute best but certainly way better than the original spring clip type. :yes:
I'm hoping not. I've had mine for several years now without an issue but both the Yamaha M-4 and the B-2 I drive them with provide clean power that doesn't exceed the the spec limits of the NS-1000(M)'s.
I attached a section of the NS-1000(M) sales brochure above. It tells you that "self-healing" caps are used in this model. :thmbsp:
Frank Valdor
"High Power Monitor 1000"
No. At the time it was quite the opposite. But that could be atributed to the large quantities of alcohol consumed during the evening - after the terminal replacement were complete, luckily.
I'm going to go with Mundorf Silver Gold Oil Caps 2.7 & 3.3 as i cant get 3.5 & 2 x 47 M Caps also by Mundorf. The Mundorf SG are $130 each so i'm willing to get the best to go with all the other money ive spent on everyting else. The only thing now is internal cabling. Someone said Audionote Silver cable but its $900 a metre. Any one used Van Der Hul? Also is it worth buying silver or is copper better?
Frank Valdor
"High Power Monitor 1000"
Yes, if I can cull them out of my wife's phone I'll post them here.
Or you could buy some Vampire SC-1108 silver/copper bi-wire cable and cut it up into its four constituent pieces. It's great stuff and only $2.75OBO/foot on eBay.