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Yamaha T-2 : freq.indicator needle dead

bennybee

Active Member
Hi all,
Ahh, I finally managed to get myself a Yamaha T2 tuner. Yesterday the Yammie arrived and it looks great! There is one problem though : the lamp/LED of the analog frequency indicator does not light up anymore. Although the digital display allows one to tune just fine, it is -to me- a big part of the fun that is missing because without that lamp it is almost impossible to see where the needle itself is positioned. The analog freq. scale is very narrow with just a slit where the needle moves in.
I opened the tuner (oh horror !) by removing the bottom plate, trying to see if I could detect something simple enough for me to repair, like a broken wire or something. 5i wanted to see the interiors anyway...) Unfortunately, the scale is only accessible from the top and requires the separation of the tuner innards from the one-piece front/top plate. But that's a job I don't even think about! Furthermore I suspect that the indicator needle is clamped or glued onto the tuning string? I don't want to mess with that string either :nono:. Is there any chance that it could be a loose wire after all? Does anyone have any experience with this particular issue? Thanks in advance!
Next tuner on my whish list is the Luxman T-110....:D
 
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Hi, thanks for your quick reply.
Indeed, I spotted the two lamps at the dial extremities but didn't dare to pull them out to see if they were on or not. The two other similar laps are OK (1 between the two meter housings + another one). The whole analog scale seems to be evenly illuminated though, so I supposed all 4 lamps work well. I can't make out if and where there are any electric wires going to the pointer itself. From looking at the front of the tuner it is difficult to determine if the pointer is either a LED itself or anything. I think I could make out a rectangular white-ish rectangle on a black plastic moving block (the pointer body). Maybe I'll check with a looking glass tonight.

I almost forgot : that tuner is not only a very nice machine to look at, it also sounds fantastic. It does have slightly less bass than my Sony ST-SA3ES, but it is it does have a more open, deepr and transparent soundstage (more 3D, more pleasant). It has exceptional reception too. A keeper for sure.
 
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The pointer is not lit on my T-2. My T-1 Has a lighted pointer that gets brighter as you get closer to the station. Its pretty cool. The T-2 is a awesome tunner but i like the looks of the T-1 better. The green lights on the T-1 are a better match to my C-4 M-4's.
 
Been a few years since I've had a T-2, but do recall that mine had green lights. Am wondering if the green condoms might be missing on your lamps? Is the analog indicator on the T-2 clear acrylic that acts as a light-pipe from a bulb at its base? That is what my feeble memory recalls.
 
My T-2 has a 1/4" flat bar as the pointer that lights up red. Numbers are white and back lit.

A marvelous tuner by the way!
 
Mine has light green back lit frequencies and the pointer is bright orange. Beautiful tuner and very heavy for one so slim.
 
Thanks to all for the replies. I have replaced the scale pointer lamps and everythings works fine now. The pointer moves in a closed tunnel behind the frequency scale. The pointer itself does not have a bulb, but there are two bulbs on either end of that 'tunnel', which illuminate the pointer. The tunnel is lined with a reflective, silvery metal foil. The lamps are wired bare bulbs sitting in rubber grommets, which tightly fit in round holes at each end of the channel/tunnel. The lamps need to be soldered after cutting back the old lamp wires somewhat.
There are also two other lamps, illuminating the scale itself and these indeed have green rubber condoms on them. A fifth lamp sits between the two meters.
It's a bit of careful fiddling around, but it can be done without dismantling the tuner completely - just by removing the bottom cover.
And indeed what a fine tuner this is!
 
Thanks to all for the replies. I have replaced the scale pointer lamps and everythings works fine now. The pointer moves in a closed tunnel behind the frequency scale. The pointer itself does not have a bulb, but there are two bulbs on either end of that 'tunnel', which illuminate the pointer. The tunnel is lined with a reflective, silvery metal foil. The lamps are wired bare bulbs sitting in rubber grommets, which tightly fit in round holes at each end of the channel/tunnel. The lamps need to be soldered after cutting back the old lamp wires somewhat.
There are also two other lamps, illuminating the scale itself and these indeed have green rubber condoms on them. A fifth lamp sits between the two meters.
It's a bit of careful fiddling around, but it can be done without dismantling the tuner completely - just by removing the bottom cover.
And indeed what a fine tuner this is!
Where are the two that illuminate the analog dial located? I have been looking for them.
 
Where are the two that illuminate the analog dial located? I have been looking for them.

There are only 4 lamps, two for the pointer, one for the meter and one for the dial. It is on the end of the dial and illuminates it like a light bar. Has a green sock over over the bulb.
 
The two lights for the pointer are the ones you need to remove the tuner from the case to access. They're at the top of the tuner, right below the top cover. They're incandescents, and have probably burnt out in yours.

Pulling the tuner from the case isn't an awful job, although it's tricky. It has an internal frame, so it will come out in 1 piece. You need to remove the tuning knob, and about 9 screws. The trick is figuring out which screws those are - the service manual isn't entirely clear on that. As I recall, there are 4 on the front upper lip (looking with the tuner upside down and bottom cover off), 4 on the bottom rear, and one in about the middle of the chassis. But there are an awful lot of screws that you shouldn't remove as well, and it can be hard to tell which is which. The knob is tricky, too - there are two set screws, but they're hidden behind the front panel - there's a little slot in the upper lip of the chassis to allow access. A flashlight is helpful to be able to see when you've got them lined up with the slot.
 
hi everyone i had the same issue but i can fix the bulbs its not a huge job.the problem is my led indicator doesnt light up.i already opened the radio i play with cables and nothing .is that led indicator have any bulbs or ? what can be wrong please help
 
hi everyone i had the same issue but i can fix the bulbs its not a huge job.the problem is my led indicator doesnt light up.i already opened the radio i play with cables and nothing .is that led indicator have any bulbs or ? what can be wrong please help

Turn the Mute/OTS off. The LED readout should come on all the time. If OTS is on then it will only light when it is tuned and if it is out of alignment it will not tune correctly and the LED will not light. If still not lighting.. Start checking voltages from the power supply.
 
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