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Yamaha T-2

From my limited use today, I managed to listen to it for a few minutes. Will do more listening later in the week or during the weekend. I can tell from the limited listening I performed is that this is a quiet tuner when locked into a decent signal. It gives a nice clean clear sound - however, the sound is dry, nothing exciting from what I can tell. That may change over the weekend when I start giving it a good listen.

I can tell against another tuner that the Yamaha does not sound as dark as the other tuner competing with it.

I believe I can attribute the dry sound to at least two factors:
1 - the caps - although in good physical appearance, they could use a replacement. I plan to do that.
2 - possibly the RCA Jacks need to be replaced with better jacks. I can make that determination after the caps are replaced and broken in.

More to come asking for replacement parts advice in the next post.
 
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Upgrade Cap Advice

OK, so I have my Yamaha which came in. It will need a cap replacement. The tuner sounds nice and clear, but not much in character to the sound. That can change with a cap replacement as the caps inside, although in good condition, looks to be original caps. So I need the following advice for cap replacement:

1 - Are the caps closest to the power supply the capacitors that are used for shaping power (Power Filter Caps)? If so, what caps (brand and type) would you use to replace the Power Caps? Panasonic and Nichicon come to mind, but I would not know what is the best model caps to use which is designed for power.

2 - Which caps are in the signal path? I would like to use Nichicon FG and KZ MUSE Caps for this, or maybe even Elna Silmic II. I have replaced caps with Nichicon MUSE Caps in my amps and preamp and it has made a very nice difference, giving the sound a smooth and clear character. Note - my amps use film caps, and preamp uses polypropelene caps which contribute to the well-rounded sound that is being produced. That will change by the fall to film caps.

The schematic diagram parts list from Yamaha does not lay out the parts for each section of the tuner as other schematic documents I have come across. It would have been nice had Yamaha had done this.

3 - I am going to need to replace the lamps for the dial pointer, and the tuner indicator section. Total blackout. Also, the digital tuner display is also out. I take it that either the LEDs have to be replaced, or something else will need to be replaced in that section. However, that can be a later project. Where would be the best place to purchase replacement lamps and what lamps should I use?

Is there anything against using white LEDs as a replacement? :nono:

Any suggestions is gladly appreciated.

Thanks!!!
 
What will make a even bigger difference in the sound and operation of your tuner much more than RCA would be a proper alignment.
 
The lack of digital frequency display is suspicious. The T-2 blanks the display intentionally under some conditions. I don't recall exactly what those conditions are, but I'm pretty sure that the display will be blanked when the tuner thinks the received signal should be muted. I think the display is also blanked if the MUT/OTS swith is set to the off position.

If the display is blanked even though the signal breaks through muting, or (worse) if you have to turn MUT/OTS off to get audio, there's a functional problem that IMHO needs attention before worrying about the finer points.

chazix
 
I found a T-2 owner's manual in PDF on fmtunerinfo.com. Part of my comment on the frequency display was incorrect. In fact, when MUT/OTS is switched off, the display should be LIT regardless of whether there's a decent (or any) signal.

chazix
 
Nope. The digital display does not light at all. I wonder if it is a cap that may be drained or if the LED completely died. I will look into it another time. If anyone has any thoughts, I am open to suggestions.

Thanks.
 
Add me to the list of AKers owning a T-2 - Got it today from a very nice and generous AKer. Got a little issue with the left channel - hopefully will be an easy and/or cheap fix

Sorry for the bad pics... 1st one is T2 on top of my T85 - 2nd pic is shaky but you can see that all the lights work

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DBX1 said:
Nope. The digital display does not light at all. I wonder if it is a cap that may be drained or if the LED completely died. I will look into it another time. If anyone has any thoughts, I am open to suggestions. Thanks.
Click to expand...
IIRC, the display is now unobtanium, though that might be a driver IC for it that I'm recalling. My recollection is that there is a resistive network of some sort that is burned for each particular tuner that once done is set. My T-2 was 0.2mHz off and could not be repaired without finding a matching donor unit, which would be a real crapshoot. This was all from Mark Wilson at Absolute Sound Labs who recapped mine with a mix of Black Gates and Nichicon. Don't recall who bought the tuner, but I was suffering temporary insanity when I sold it.
 
Looking at the schematic,there are a dozen ICs on the board that controls the numeric display. The +5VDC that comes from the PS looks to feed the display only. There is a fuse for it(fuse A). Looks like .1A250V.
The display should count at all times when the MUT/OTS buttom is IN,even without an antenna connected.
A good idea would be to get on those push buttons with some cleaner.
(A little disassembling required to get at them). Also,check and reseat the ribbon cables.
The owners manual is a must have if you expect to do any trouble shooting,and to understand how this tuner works.
I can't take a photo or scan-the print is that small.

DBX--mind if I ask what condition the seller said the unit was in?
Good luck
Happy listening
Jimmy
 
Regarding frequency display offsets (a moot point for DBX1 at present, but might be useful for posterity):

At least on my T-2, the display calibration is set by a small DIP-socketed PCB. I don't remember it having any components, just a pattern of traces. The traces were cut as needed during production, according to what the best IF center frequncy turned out to be. I was able to reset the calibration on mine (after re-aligning the IF section) by solder-bridging cuts and/or making new cuts. It might not be possible to do this in all cases, I suppose. (And it's something that's probably only feasible as a labor of love, rather than the labor of someone who needs to make a living at it.)

Wishing a happy 4th of July to anyone who celebrates it,

chazix
 
MX117.MC7150 said:
My T-2 was 0.2mHz off and could not be repaired without finding a matching donor unit, which would be a real crapshoot.
Click to expand...

dittoing above post..

This is quite common and it is address in the alignment procedure. Has to do with matching the actual IF frequency to the digital readout circuit and involves making jumpers and cutting foil runs to match a chart.
 
I purchased it off ebay from a seller. The seller did mention that the dial light and tuner display light was out - which it is, so I purchased lamps for it yesterday on line.

The tuner does pull in stations, however the digital display is out, and does not turn on whether I push the MUT/OTS button. So I am confused by a couple of posts mentioned above. If there is a misalignment of 0.2 MHz, the digital display is shot. Does this mean that the tuner is totally shot - being unrepairable?

I will inspect the fuse with my trusty multi-meter to see if it is broke. I have the schematic diagrams and user manual.

Thanks all!!!
 
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Hi, DBX1 - I think the upshot is:

There's definitely something wrong with your tuner's digital frequency display, as you knew.

Whether or not your display is fixable is unclear at present. (My personal bet is that it is.)

Sometimes otherwise-working displays can show an offset from the actual station frequency. One correspondent heard that this is an unfixable problem, but two correspondents say from personal experience that it is fixable.

The display is, after all, a secondary function. Its outage is most likely inconsequential to the tuner's primary functions. Something to keep in mind, while reading, is that some of us in this neighborhood just HATE to see see any fine equipment that we think COULD be working perfectly, go unrepaired. Don't let our vicarious concerns worry you much - you're the one that's using the tuner!

Cheers,

chazix
 
Your description of your T-2 performance is the exact opposite of my experience. My two T-2 tuners are anything but dry. They have a very rich and full musical sound.
 
Frank Sol said:
Add me to the list of AKers owning a T-2... Got a little issue with the left channel - hopefully will be an easy and/or cheap fix
Click to expand...


Good news I believe... Sprayed the the 6 button controls & dial pot with Deoxit D5 and worked them well. Then unplugged the wiring harness connectors used Deoxit D1000L on them. Cleaned the RCAs - Allowed it some drying time... Plugged it back into the system - BINGO!

Worked properly all of last night and still working well this morning
 
Nick , have not done an A/B test but from my T85 memory from just 4 days ago

T2 is warmer more robust - Some would say it is the analog sound

As far as reception... I listen to only 3 stations 99% of the time. Jazz 88.3 , Indie 102.1 and Classical 104.9 they all 3 seem to be about the same on both tuners. I use a simple dipole antenna
 
Thank you everyone for your input. I have not had a chance to give the T2 a good listen since I have been busy this weekend, but I do plan to do so. So is it safe to assume that the digital display is not indicative to other issues with the tuner that would not make it unrepairable?

I checked the two fuses with a multimeter and they both check out without any breaks.

Also, is there a consensus about the digital display to attempt to fix - or if I want to spare that area, that I should attempt to have the tuner realigned and have it relit by implementing the spare bulbs once received?

Or should I go with an Onkyo T-9 tuner or Pioneer TX9500II?

Thank you all for your time.
 
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Ok so I am listening it and so far so good. It could use a little bit more top end, but I know how to take care of that. No doubt about the bass and it gets good midrange that is for sure. Overall it does sound good, no complaints. Does not sound as dry as I initially thought. Unfortunately I can pull in 4 stations or so. Has to do with the building I live in more than anything else.

I still plan to replace a couple of bulbs since it needs it in the dial marker and the analogue station display. I will start with incandescent and will test LED. LEDs do display sharper.
 
Does anyone know if the dial marker use two bulbs and how the hell do I get to replace the Tuner Marker Bulb?

I was able to find four bulbs:
1 is shared for the signal strength and the tuning lock - easiest to replace out of all of them

1 is used for the FM Tuning Marker - which is out and going to be hell to replace, since it is underneath the power button when the tuner is upside-down - and is not able to be easily accessible.

2 looks like it is used for the dial marker which is fairly easy to replace.

I have the service manual, but from what I gather, it says nothing on how to easily replace the Tuning Marker Light.

Thanks.
 
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