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Yamaha YP-D71 find

I've been looking for a deal on a good Yamaha TT to go with my CR-1020 that I'm restoring. I took a chance on a YP-D71 that was listed on the bay with a "bad motor" that made "grinding sounds" and needed to be replaced. It's in very nice condition but it is missing some items (headshell, anti-skate weight and arm/roller). Similar units that are from Japan with the same missing parts are listed at twice what I was able to buy this for. I did enough research to know that the only mechanical friction point that the motor has (or entire unit for that matter) is the motor main bushing. I expected that I could clean the old sticky oil out and re-lube it and I'd be in business. Well it came on Sunday and I cleaned and re-lubed the motor; still making noise (more popping then grinding to me). I took the bottom cover off and there was a 1000 uf capacitor that had leaked on the board and corroded the solder off of one of it's terminals. I replaced it and the one next to it with some old caps I just pulled out of my CR-1020 that appeared to be ok. I got lucky and the motor spun right up, tone arm dropped and I am in business. I put an aftermarket head shell on it to ensure she works. It tracks nicely with no anti skate. I plan to peel the vinyl off and veneer this and the CR-1020 case with tiger ebony veneer. I will re-cap the entire TT and make the anti-skate system. I may get a stock head shell but the only one found so far was $100... nope! Here some pics:
Anyone who has one; what cartridge are you using?
 

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Nice score. I think the high-end Yamahas of that time all share some tonearm lineage. I have a D8 and I would say the D71 sits on a similar rung of the ladder especially since it offers quartz lock.

All that to say the D8 arm and up run on the heavy side - I think the D8 was believed to have an effective mass of around 22g, so lower compliance cartridges are the best match. I use different Denon LOMCs on mine. The only thing that bugs me about these Yamahas is the lack of a standalone cueing arm.

The D71 arm does look different so if anything I would expect it to have a lower mass. Luckily there are tons of medium compliance cartridges out there.
 
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I used a monofilament fishing line, 1/16 tungsten weight, and a piece of 18 gauge buss wire to jury-rig the anti-skate. I've listened to several records and tried a AT-VM95 with ML and SH styli and a Nagaoka MP-110. I liked the VM95 with the SH better than the ML (no surprise there). The MP-110 is brand new and only played one side but it is pretty good already; I may end up liking it better than the SH. I read that the ML-110 is low to medium compliance so theoretically a good fit with the heavy arm. General thoughts on the TT; I've been using a Dual 510 with a VM95ML and the Yamaha has noticeably stronger bass response, to the point to where I had to lower the volume on my sub. Mids and treble response is about equal with the 510. I haven't really listen to the staging thus far. I like the operation of this deck; I thought that no manual cue would bother me but so far, not an issue.
 
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Nice score indeed Bill. I have one that also came sans original headshell, but had an Audio Technica D-7. I also don't want to spend what they are asking for one. Mine came with a Ortofon vms20e mkII that I really liked the sound of. The effective mass of the tonearm is 15 grams so that gives you a good amount of options. I have tried a couple Shures, and older AT carts that were alright but am wanting a new flavor and have been thinking of trying a Nagaoka. I just weighed my anti skate weight (1.8g) and it looks like you nailed it pretty close with the 1/16 oz.
 
it looks like you nailed it pretty close with the 1/16 oz.
Thanks. I admit I used the research of others to figure out the right fishing weight to use. Nice looking doggo! I tried a Shure cartridges on my Dual and didn't care for it either. I had a Fluence table with a Ortofon OM 10, even after upgrading to a 30 I still ended going back to the AT VM95SH. I'm excited about the Nagaoka so far, very even and natural sounding, nothing forward but everything is present, if that means anything
 
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I've been looking for a deal on a good Yamaha TT to go with my CR-1020 that I'm restoring. I took a chance on a YP-D71 that was listed on the bay with a "bad motor" that made "grinding sounds" and needed to be replaced. It's in very nice condition but it is missing some items (headshell, anti-skate weight and arm/roller). Similar units that are from Japan with the same missing parts are listed at twice what I was able to buy this for. I did enough research to know that the only mechanical friction point that the motor has (or entire unit for that matter) is the motor main bushing. I expected that I could clean the old sticky oil out and re-lube it and I'd be in business. Well it came on Sunday and I cleaned and re-lubed the motor; still making noise (more popping then grinding to me). I took the bottom cover off and there was a 1000 uf capacitor that had leaked on the board and corroded the solder off of one of it's terminals. I replaced it and the one next to it with some old caps I just pulled out of my CR-1020 that appeared to be ok. I got lucky and the motor spun right up, tone arm dropped and I am in business. I put an aftermarket head shell on it to ensure she works. It tracks nicely with no anti skate. I plan to peel the vinyl off and veneer this and the CR-1020 case with tiger ebony veneer. I will re-cap the entire TT and make the anti-skate system. I may get a stock head shell but the only one found so far was $100... nope! Here some pics:
Anyone who has one; what cartridge are you using?
Hey bill I am using my d71 with a Stanton 881S and prior to that some Shures (M75, 91, 97). I also replaced the headshell with something lighter - a Supex.
What I like about this TT besides the build quality is the tonearm's long effective length of ~245mm. Thats one thing you cant easliy mod or change.
One word of caution - the bearings are prone to tightening up. They dont seize but are not as free as they need to be. One way to test this is to float the tonearm at zero balance and then tap very lightly up/down and sideways. It should move easily and get back to center. If not the bearings need a bit of adjustment.
Have fun with it you will love it!
 
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