Erm...no. The AX7 is NOT a sub for the 7247. A 7247 is a 7025 and a 12AU7 in one envelope.
-D
yeah! Found Fisher Tube Console
- Thread starter pdbjc
- Start date
Erm...no. The AX7 is NOT a sub for the 7247. A 7247 is a 7025 and a 12AU7 in one envelope.
-D
OOOOPPPPSSS. I meant to say 12DW7.
I've heard of guys using a 12AT7 and sacrificing a little gain on the 7025 side.
Larry
I've heard of guys using a 12AT7 and sacrificing a little gain on the 7025 side.
Larry
Just love the sound of big dawgs barking!.... Brain food... ya just gotta love AK!
(for friends not familiar with American slang, 'big dawgs' (dogs intentionally misspelled) are Gurus (people very knowledgeable about a subject) and 'barking' is slang for talking or discussing a subject. 'Brain food' refers to the information they provide to increase the readers knowledge about the subject being discussed, and of course the love for AK stems from the fact that the forum provides a framework within which the subject can be discussed (or knowledge dropped (if you are American not familiar with standard English)).
Anyway, you guys (non gender specific) have gotten me pumped about this project. This is another one that will never see landfill!
(for friends not familiar with American slang, 'big dawgs' (dogs intentionally misspelled) are Gurus (people very knowledgeable about a subject) and 'barking' is slang for talking or discussing a subject. 'Brain food' refers to the information they provide to increase the readers knowledge about the subject being discussed, and of course the love for AK stems from the fact that the forum provides a framework within which the subject can be discussed (or knowledge dropped (if you are American not familiar with standard English)).
Anyway, you guys (non gender specific) have gotten me pumped about this project. This is another one that will never see landfill!
One last quick question on this Console please... Does anyone have any perspective on the Gerrard turntable (see pictures)? It may need some work and I am wondering if I should plan on investing in repairing it or at least consider the possibility of replacing it with a Dual Zero that I have.
Patrice B
Super Member
Same type of (crappy) Garrard changer I have in an Electrohome 6BQ5 console. I say crappy because I feel it is cheaper than my two Garrard Type A changers...
Does that mean independently crappy (crap in it's own right) or relatively crappy compared to your others?
It's one of the lower end models that Garrard put out. Looks like an AUTOSLIM with a different arm. That doesn't automatically make for a crappy TT. The Garrard Idlers do have a history of problems that a little time with a dremel and a good cleaning and lube will take care of. They can be worked up to a serviceable level. Not for the good stereo stuff, but a lot of mono stuff and older less critical stereo stuff can be played without problems.
Can you pull it out and look for a paper tag on the undersides with the model # on it.
Once you find the model # you can probably find some info on it on www.vinylengine.com. You'll have to register to download.
the model # will also help the console database that Red and JONBOY55 have going.
The ZERO 100 is gonna be a REAL TIGHT FIT in there. Better fit is a Miracord 10 or 10H. If you find one Marked FISHER on the toneram weight, it's a 10F. You'll have to make a plate for it to sit on, but the Miracord is a very good fit in the Custom electras. If you want to stay Garrard, you can look for an AT-6 or a Type "A". the AT-6 was installed in the 1964 model. In 65 FISHER Changed to the Miracord. Most people don't realize the Realistic 10 is a ELAC Miracord 10 or 10H.
Larry
Can you pull it out and look for a paper tag on the undersides with the model # on it.
Once you find the model # you can probably find some info on it on www.vinylengine.com. You'll have to register to download.
the model # will also help the console database that Red and JONBOY55 have going.
The ZERO 100 is gonna be a REAL TIGHT FIT in there. Better fit is a Miracord 10 or 10H. If you find one Marked FISHER on the toneram weight, it's a 10F. You'll have to make a plate for it to sit on, but the Miracord is a very good fit in the Custom electras. If you want to stay Garrard, you can look for an AT-6 or a Type "A". the AT-6 was installed in the 1964 model. In 65 FISHER Changed to the Miracord. Most people don't realize the Realistic 10 is a ELAC Miracord 10 or 10H.
Larry
Thanks Larry, you were exactly right, it is an Autoslim (see pictures) I will pull it later today to get the model number to add to the database. The phono did work when I was buying it, the volume was just very low. Thanks for the perspective on the Zero 100. I think I will try to keep it original. According to a tag behind the changer the cabinet was made by Coghill-Simmons. I don't know if they made all the cabinets or if Fischer contracted with a lot of manufactures.
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That tag may also be the name of the dealer that sold the unit. FISHER made a lot of their own cabinetry by the 1960's. A lot of Dealers would put their tag on them (much like a dealer tag on the back of your car. Campbell Music in D.C. is one that I know of in this area.
In 63 and 64 FISHER put AT-6's in the Custom Electra, In 65 the Miracord 10F, 1966 and 1967 had a DUAL 1010. 1968 saw a Name Change to Royal Electra, and a Fisher Branded BSR thru at least 1969. My 64, 65, and 69 all have the above Changers. the BSR Unit is surprisingly good for a BSR. Mainly in the TONEARM. Its adjustable and has a tonearm lift.
I took out the Miracord 10F in my Futura VI and put in a Miracord 50H (plug and play). BIG Difference in SQ. I also madea plinth plate for a DUAL 1009 and swap them around occasionally. It's a tossup which sounds better, the DUAL or the Miracord 50H.
I'd think if you put an AT-6 in there you'd have more control over VTF an a better overall Changer in the AT-6. the AT-6 came out in 62 or 63 so it's an ok replacement as faras historical accuracy is concerned. But hang on to the Autoslim. If you decide not to use it, clean and lube it, place it in a plastic bag with some silica gel packets and seal it up and store it in the bottom.
Larry
In 63 and 64 FISHER put AT-6's in the Custom Electra, In 65 the Miracord 10F, 1966 and 1967 had a DUAL 1010. 1968 saw a Name Change to Royal Electra, and a Fisher Branded BSR thru at least 1969. My 64, 65, and 69 all have the above Changers. the BSR Unit is surprisingly good for a BSR. Mainly in the TONEARM. Its adjustable and has a tonearm lift.
I took out the Miracord 10F in my Futura VI and put in a Miracord 50H (plug and play). BIG Difference in SQ. I also madea plinth plate for a DUAL 1009 and swap them around occasionally. It's a tossup which sounds better, the DUAL or the Miracord 50H.
I'd think if you put an AT-6 in there you'd have more control over VTF an a better overall Changer in the AT-6. the AT-6 came out in 62 or 63 so it's an ok replacement as faras historical accuracy is concerned. But hang on to the Autoslim. If you decide not to use it, clean and lube it, place it in a plastic bag with some silica gel packets and seal it up and store it in the bottom.
Larry
I started the process of dismantling the Electra tonight. Pictures attached. The recapping will be interesting. Open for instructions on what are good replacements for the caps. Will also look for a previous thread on the subject. Larry you are correct again about the table. After seeing it out of the console I am not sure what I am going to eventually do. The recap will be my first. I also am anxious to get to bringing the cabinet back up.
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I see some orange drops. Those are usually OK. The brown plastic tubular ones, probably not so much. Honestly orange drops are not a bad choice here. They aren't expensive, they sound fine, and they are quite reliable. The ceramic disc caps I'd also leave alone. Opinions differ greatly here but they seldom fail electrically, and if you swap the wrong ones out it will screw the tuner alignment up pretty badly.
Agree with Gadget. All you have on the amp to do is the CAN caps plus the two black plastic shrouded caps, and the tophat diodes. Under $10.00 in parts plus shipping. Write down the value's/ voltage for each section and post the results. The OD's are great for this amp where they are.
This amp/tuner/preamp is very similar to the 481A/481T I have in my 64 Electra.
As for the tuner/preamp. Replace the can cap sections, and the Brown "dog turds". Theres probably 1 or 2 of the black beauties in there, But I can't see too well in the pics. $15.00 or so in parts.
If you haven't got the Service manual, go to www.fisherconsoles.com, look up the '61 Custom Electra, and follow the prompts for the manual. Compare what's in the parts list with what's in the unit itself. Go by the list in the unit. Write down any discrepancies, and keep with the unit. As this is a pre-70 unit the cap values may not be easy to find. Say for instance a .05uf 300v cap. Use a .047uf 400V cap.
If you have any questions about them, ask and we'll help ya on it. Don't use all one brand/type of cap (ie: OD or Orange Drop). Mix them up so you don't impart a certain sound to the unit. Each cap brand/type will flavor the sound some. So go ahead and mix them up. But electrolytics (can FILTER caps and small individual can looking caps)will get lytics. I'd use either NICHICON PW Series to replace the can caps. Good low leakage caps.
Again, leave the tuner section alone, except to clean it. All you are going to do there is spray it down with CRC "QD ELECTRONICS CLEANER". It's a "non residue" cleaner, which is ideal for tuners. OPEN the TUNER (all the FINS OUT) and spray liberally in, and around them. Flush well. Don't power it up for 12 hours to let it dry completely.
Now that you know that you can pull the amp without removing the top, (BTDT), having removed it, if it needs refinishing, go ahead and do it now.
Don't worry it'll go back together easily.
Larry
This amp/tuner/preamp is very similar to the 481A/481T I have in my 64 Electra.
As for the tuner/preamp. Replace the can cap sections, and the Brown "dog turds". Theres probably 1 or 2 of the black beauties in there, But I can't see too well in the pics. $15.00 or so in parts.
If you haven't got the Service manual, go to www.fisherconsoles.com, look up the '61 Custom Electra, and follow the prompts for the manual. Compare what's in the parts list with what's in the unit itself. Go by the list in the unit. Write down any discrepancies, and keep with the unit. As this is a pre-70 unit the cap values may not be easy to find. Say for instance a .05uf 300v cap. Use a .047uf 400V cap.
If you have any questions about them, ask and we'll help ya on it. Don't use all one brand/type of cap (ie: OD or Orange Drop). Mix them up so you don't impart a certain sound to the unit. Each cap brand/type will flavor the sound some. So go ahead and mix them up. But electrolytics (can FILTER caps and small individual can looking caps)will get lytics. I'd use either NICHICON PW Series to replace the can caps. Good low leakage caps.
Again, leave the tuner section alone, except to clean it. All you are going to do there is spray it down with CRC "QD ELECTRONICS CLEANER". It's a "non residue" cleaner, which is ideal for tuners. OPEN the TUNER (all the FINS OUT) and spray liberally in, and around them. Flush well. Don't power it up for 12 hours to let it dry completely.
Now that you know that you can pull the amp without removing the top, (BTDT), having removed it, if it needs refinishing, go ahead and do it now.
Don't worry it'll go back together easily.
Larry
Patrice B
Super Member
Sorry, I meant relatively crappy compared to my Type A's, but the one I have is far from being in a good shape I must add... It feels cheaper but I guess it could performs well with restoration (I dismantled all the mechanism and relubed it but even then, it doesn't spin always spot on, maybe the idler wheel is shot).