are those fisher cabs? (http://stockton.craigslist.org/ele/4177858527.html) or harmon kardons?
Thanks for the response Derek
I'll probably end up routing slots in the top
I am concerned about heat also, but I am hesitant to cut into the tops. I have a router, but I am not skilled on it yet. I can get advice, as I know real craftsmen. Its 1/4 thick on top
The fronts do have the grills and these amps were in a kind of tight spot in the original tape decks. I am monitoring the heat as I enjoy these clean Hi-Fi low watt amps
I am putting flashing on the inside top to try to keep the heat off the top wood and to vector the heat to the rear where I have drilled seven 7/8th inch holes in the back plate nearest to the top.
I thought of just taking 1.5 inches off the the back plate also but the holes are easier to do than get out my table saw.
The holes in the back and the grill in front should allow for convection
Then there are micro fans
Can I power a micro fan with the 6.3 volts from the heaters?

I really need to do something with my amps. Why didn't you re-route the inputs and outputs to the back? I've seen other conversions that did it. Are you just trying to keep things simple? I understand that methodology!
Go to this link > http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=79384
I think post NO: 9 will give you the details on the proven tracker X mod for the tone control mod.
Keep up the good work, I think when you get them done you will be very pleased at the sound quality of these mono amps.
The resisters are wire wound and should not need replacing, I did replace them all when I was experimenting with my pair and
it altered the way these amps sounded, killed the awesome soundstage these amps are known for.
I put the wire wound resisters back in and all is good again.
Did they have a special tap on the OPTs for high Z headphones like certain Sonys did (600 ohm)?