Poultrygeist
Lunatic Member
This vacuum tube pin straightener works far better than needle nose pliers. Indispensable for tube gear owners and can be mounted to a stationary surface which I've not done yet. It also helps to keep the pins clean.
Your favorite DIY trick
- Thread starter birchoak
- Start date
Poultrygeist
Lunatic Member
Sponge practice hockey pucks are ideal for resonance absorption. I use four between the top and bottom section of the open baffles shown in my avatar. They should also work underneath a sub, TT or heavy amp. "Sponge" is misleading as they aren't that easy to compress
reeferman
Active Member
May not work in all instances…
1. When replacing tube socket cut solder lugs from the bottom of the old socket (leave wiring/components in place) then solder to lugs on the new socket. May also work with terminal strips/ other components.
2. I have used WD-40 to restore faded color bands on resistors. Results may vary. Cleaners like acetone can dissolve color bands
3. Valve grinding compound (available at auto parts store) applied to a screwdriver tip often gives enough gripping power to remove stubborn screw.
4. Part #’s too small to read? Take a digital photo and expand.
5. I take many pictures before AND after. Allows me to inspect now/review later in case I’ve screwed something up.
6. Small parts dropping on floor? Place a carpet remnant (no shag) in the drop zone.
7. Old cardboard insulator on metal electrolytic can disintegrated and need replacing? A) Wrap entire can with several layers of quality electrical tape. B) If you can’t wrap the can with tape first cover top of metal can with electrical tape. Cut a cardboard tube (from paper towels or TP) to the correct length, install over the can. I use a silicone caulk bead to secure tube to the chassis. Don't do this where heat might be an issue over time. For a better look I’ll first dip the paper tube several times in black paint to stiffen and protect the tube. The tube can then be cut and taped/glued for a better fit if desired.
8. Magnetize end of screwdriver to nut driver to hold screw.
1. When replacing tube socket cut solder lugs from the bottom of the old socket (leave wiring/components in place) then solder to lugs on the new socket. May also work with terminal strips/ other components.
2. I have used WD-40 to restore faded color bands on resistors. Results may vary. Cleaners like acetone can dissolve color bands
3. Valve grinding compound (available at auto parts store) applied to a screwdriver tip often gives enough gripping power to remove stubborn screw.
4. Part #’s too small to read? Take a digital photo and expand.
5. I take many pictures before AND after. Allows me to inspect now/review later in case I’ve screwed something up.
6. Small parts dropping on floor? Place a carpet remnant (no shag) in the drop zone.
7. Old cardboard insulator on metal electrolytic can disintegrated and need replacing? A) Wrap entire can with several layers of quality electrical tape. B) If you can’t wrap the can with tape first cover top of metal can with electrical tape. Cut a cardboard tube (from paper towels or TP) to the correct length, install over the can. I use a silicone caulk bead to secure tube to the chassis. Don't do this where heat might be an issue over time. For a better look I’ll first dip the paper tube several times in black paint to stiffen and protect the tube. The tube can then be cut and taped/glued for a better fit if desired.
8. Magnetize end of screwdriver to nut driver to hold screw.
I just found this trick thread-I will read through 16 pages!
Folks here have probably already done this trick. I hope others might benefit.
When I had to hold a nut for a screw-in this case, I had to hold it 3" into the chassis, horizontally, to accept the screw from above. It was far too tight to get my hands in there.
I used a pair of hemostats, holding the nut, and used a rubber band to maintain firm tension, to avoid dropping nuts into the chassis.
Also, I needed to find a way to push up the board, so the end of the screw, mentioned above, would protrude enough to catch the nut I had. My 'third hand' was simply a microfiber towel. I carefully, bur firmly pushed the cloth into the area, moving the board into place, and spreading the force out among the multiple components on the board. That screw on the left was recessed-tricky!
Folks here have probably already done this trick. I hope others might benefit.
When I had to hold a nut for a screw-in this case, I had to hold it 3" into the chassis, horizontally, to accept the screw from above. It was far too tight to get my hands in there.
I used a pair of hemostats, holding the nut, and used a rubber band to maintain firm tension, to avoid dropping nuts into the chassis.
Also, I needed to find a way to push up the board, so the end of the screw, mentioned above, would protrude enough to catch the nut I had. My 'third hand' was simply a microfiber towel. I carefully, bur firmly pushed the cloth into the area, moving the board into place, and spreading the force out among the multiple components on the board. That screw on the left was recessed-tricky!
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good plan! i always end up bending my hemos when locking them with a nut in the jaws and having to straighten them next time i need them.
crispycircuit
Super Member
Old speaker magnets help keep screws from disappearing , attach them to the chassis cover so after the parts arrive nothing is missing. The magnets can be hard to get off the speaker..
Poultrygeist
Lunatic Member
I often use these binding posts on diy projects. They were originally designed to use as wall plates for HT systems but removed from the plates I've used them in speakers and amps. Bought several plates on close out at Lowes but you can find them even cheaper on line. I prefer the ones that have a set screw on the back that captures the bare wire.
I bought a small ‘wire’ shelf cart. Sits about 4’ high. It has shelves below. I cut the cardboard box to make shelf covers, as the wire construction lets equipment legs and tools drop through.I put larger pieces on it, so I can spin it around, to get to either side easily. Lower shelves hold tools and such. This set up lets me work seated and have my work at eye level, on some gear. I work on R2Rs and this rolling spinable cart has been a big help.
cferry1
Active Member
Large 3 tier roll around wire shelved unit.
Small wheel size. Handles a load. Two large, one small piece of gear shelved. It rolls smooth !
HSN seller, manufacturer name " Origami " for it's convenient easy fold up and store technology.
I had always thought that a unit sitting on a mechanical Lazy Suzy
Idea , was the best. Now, I am at odds !
Small wheel size. Handles a load. Two large, one small piece of gear shelved. It rolls smooth !
HSN seller, manufacturer name " Origami " for it's convenient easy fold up and store technology.
I had always thought that a unit sitting on a mechanical Lazy Suzy
Idea , was the best. Now, I am at odds !
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Luckyorleans
Super Member
I like those carts that are basically a workbench on wheels. Sure beats slugging a big piece of gear around to get at the back of it.
Poultrygeist
Lunatic Member
I often use these binding posts on diy projects. They were originally designed to use as wall plates for HT systems but removed from the plates I've used them in speakers and amps. Bought several plates on close out at Lowes but you can find them even cheaper on line. I prefer the ones that have a set screw on the back that captures the bare wire.
If you look closely you can see how I used these inexpensive terminals on the OBs.
elvi
Super Member
elvi
Super Member
been there, done that!
btmacdou
HH Scottsman
Use tape to secure the dial cord on a receiver or tuner so that you can remove the large tuning capacitor pulley and keep the dial cord in place! I used this trick to replace the drive gear on the capacitor of this Scott 350R.
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elnaldo
Lunatic Member
I use tape on the dial cord pulley too (y)