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Zeta tonearm rebuild.

jamie123

Active Member
So ive been busy over the last week,there has always been a slight bearing rattle since i bought the zeta in the lateral top bearing.

you can here it in this video.

[video=youtube_share;YJYUkEy6o3o]

so what to do??
After further adjustment to the top bearing i became clear that it was either to loose or too tight,there was no in between sweet spot.
After a call to a fellow Zeta owner,Roger at TPA it seemed the best course of action was to strip the arm completely and check all the bearings.:eek::mental:

As there was no manual it was in at the deep end time!
Each bearing has its own cover disc,to access the bearings each one has to be removed,i made a tool up at work to do this.

IMG_2122_1.jpg


Top lateral bearing cup cover disc.

IMG_2108.jpg



With the bearing cover discs removed we can see 1 of the 4 bearing cups which hold the bearings in place.

Here's a photo of the top lateral bearing cup,the cover disc has been removed.

IMG_2011_1.jpg


To remove the arm tube the 2 vertical bearings have to be removed first,they are held in place with grubs screws so i first removed them.
Once the bearing cups are unscrewed using my special tool :) you can withdraw the arm tube out from the back,whoops the finger lift wont go through the square arm tube block???
Apply some heat,i used hot air pant stripper and let physics to the rest,once there's enough heat the finger lift just pulls out,bingo! you can now remove the arm tube!

Now that the arm tubes out of the way you have to remove the bearing cones before the arm tube block can be removed.These are a push fit and again held in place with grub screws,some heat here gets them out .

Here's the underside of the arm tube block showing the bottom lateral bearing cone.

IMG_2097_1.jpg


With both top and bottom cones removed the arm tube block comes away leaving the main c shaped block/arm pillar.

So here's all the parts.

IMG_2096.jpg


Someones been here before!
The tonearm uses 3, 2.5mm ball bearings to each bearing cup,except my bottom lateral bearing has 4 much smaller bearings which dont even fully cover the diameter of the cup they run in??
Thats not right,i think ive found my problem!!

In this pic you can just see the smaller bearings to the right of the top bearing cup.

IMG_2095_1.jpg


Feeling rather happy that id found the problem i ordered some new Silicon Nitride bearings,my thanks to angus for the advice :cool:

After work yesterday i started the rebuild.
All parts well cleaned with alcohol,basically its the strip down in reverse.
The bearing cones are put back in the arm tube block,then the bottom lateral bearings go in,then the top ones,a good tip here is to use Vaseline to hold the bearings in their cups,the cups have a small hole so once the arm is fully assembled the Vaseline can be cleaned away using wd40 squirted through the hole.

IMG_2099.jpg


Lateral bearings ready for action!
IMG_2100.jpg


Now comes the tricky bit,getting everything centered correctly,i used feeler gauges here,and got the arm tube in the right ball park,the final truing up i did when the arm was completely back together.

IMG_2101.jpg


Here the arm tube is back in place and new tonearm wire inserted,

IMG_2105.jpg


Anyone still following??:D

Right next i had to put the arm tube assembly back into the c shaped arm pillar,again final alignment is done when complete.

With everything back in place i set about getting everything totally true,careful loosening of one arm tube bearing and tightening of the other moves the arm tube left or right depending on where you need to be.Be very careful here as if you loosen 1 too much the cone slips out and you have to take the whole ting apart and re sit the bearings again,ask me how i know!!!

With everything all nicely squared up i had a lovely view from behind,ooh matron!

IMG_2113.jpg


IMG_2114.jpg


Nows the time to give all the bearings a good soaking in wd40 to remove the vaseline,i did this periodically about 5 times,wiping with kitchen roll.
With that done i called it a day.

First job today was to check how everything was,movement of the arm in all directions was good so i went on to re solder the tonearm wires.

IMG_2115.jpg



And that's it folks,job done!
What effect has it had? well to start with the movement with the arm at balance is way better than before in all directions,the arm glides smoothly with no hint of sticking.
The head stock lines up with the alignment protractor grid lines at 90 degrees,before it didn't, and lastly here's a vid showing the greatly improved vertical free play.

[video=youtube_share;4yVlZlQwQRo]
 
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I think I read part of this saga over on PFM. Impressive!

Tinkering with a new-to me-arm myself today (Nottingham Space Arm) but will be back to read it all. Thanks for sharing this.
 
It was fascinating to follow each step, the explanations, the photos (macro when necessary) — and the head-trip so well conveyed with apt emojis. The Zeta's bearing design is not typical of the "super-arms" of that period, and presents unique challenges — kudos to you for figuring them out and solving them. The arm is a classic, it represents the most fertile period of vinyl's "Golden Age" and well worth restoring. I really doubt that many of the new tonearms, with astronomcal prices, offer any advantages commensurate with their cost.

Most of my arms from that time use sealed ball-race bearings, whereas the Zeta used the older, simpler 'balls in a cup' tensioned by a polished cone tip. It's older but just as good, and in this case beautifully machined, which is all-important. A big advantage of this design is that it allows you to inspect each of the tiny balls, because they can develop flat spots over time, and can easily be replaced — whereas sealed bearings don't permit this. The cups can also show wear, as they're a softer metal (looks like brass, or bronze).

Did you find signs of wear on any of those tiny balls, and replace them?
 
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It was fascinating to follow each step, the explanations, the photos (macro when necessary) — and the head-trip so well conveyed with apt emojis. The Zeta's bearing design is not typical of the "super-arms" of that period, and presents unique challenges — kudos to you for figuring them out and solving them. The arm is a classic, it represents the most fertile period of vinyl's "Golden Age" and well worth restoring. I really doubt that many of the new tonearms, with astronomcal prices, offer any advantages commensurate with their cost.

Most of my arms from that time use sealed ball-race bearings, whereas the Zeta used the older, simpler 'balls in a cup' tensioned by a polished cone tip. It's older but just as good, and in this case beautifully machined, which is all-important. A big advantage of this design is that it allows you to inspect each of the tiny balls, because they can develop flat spots over time, and can easily be replaced — whereas sealed bearings don't permit this. The cups can also show wear, as they're a softer metal (looks like brass, or bronze).

Did you find signs of wear on any of those tiny balls, and replace them?

hi, thanks for your kind comments,i was going to replace the lot with new chrome steel ball bearings,then i found someone selling ceramic so i just replaced the lot, £11.66 for 20 so i have some spares :)

the cups are hardened steel i would guess. no wear present.
 
A small update,
i have read on the web somewhere that early zetas used 3 bearings per cup and that later ones changed to 5 bearings.
Now it is very possible that whoever worked on the tonearm before me for what ever reason used the later 5 smaller bearings,even though he/she would have seen the fact that it uses 3.
Also the bearing cone angle would be different and the bearing cups ID made bigger to suit.It explains why my arm tube mounting block sat lower in the c shaped arm pillar,it now sits higher.

Here's a picture from the web of a later zeta using 5 to illustrate what i mean,i adjusted the photo to make seeing the bearings in their cup clearer.

zeta_final.jpg


and mine.

IMG_2095_1.jpg
 
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