Father/Daughter project Part III, Kenwood KA-9100 repair

DrumminDaddy

Hit it, Baby !!
With the successful repair of our KA-7150, I've piqued my daughters interest in this vintage gear that Daddy has in his collection. She jumped at the chance to look at another Kenwood classic I've got that's in need of some TLC. The venerable KA-9100.

This particular model is quite inaccesable in its physical build and layout. I figure if this thing doesn't discourage her, she's got the bug, but good. Heck, I've been putting this one off myself. :rolleyes:

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The unit has been working, but with very noisy controls. The protection relay was engaging, but sometimes sluggishly. There is also some damage to the input jack board. It is functional, but I found a replacement from a parted out unit.

At the time we opened up this amp to take a look, the protection relay wasn't energizing at all. We checked for B+ and B- voltage on pins 5,11 and 6,12 of the amp boards. That looked good. We then moved to the output of the amp boards to check for D.C. The readings on outputs, pins 7 & 8, were in the millivolt range.

While we were discussing the implications of the readings we just took, didn't the protection relay just up and kick in. The amp had been on for several minutes by then. I decided that the protection circuit would be the first thing to be addressed.

I wasn't looking forward to digging the diode board out of this amp, but I gave it a go. Sissy looked on for the better part of a hour while I painstakingly unsoldered the main filter cap lugs in order to gain access to the board. What a can-o-worms. o_O

Whilst in the process of unsoldering the main caps, we were discussing the prospect of replacing them. I mentioned that modern caps tend to be smaller in physical size for a given capacitance, and if we replace them we may have to get creative with the leads and the clamping. She said, "Well that sucks if they're smaller, because those big caps look bad-ass."

Hehehe, 'aats me goyl ! :biggrin:


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Good for you. SO rewarding. My daughter is into old hifi and bought a Maggie console. I built her a tube amp to replace the SS in there, with her helping. She'll remember these moments long after we leave.
 
Good luck with your restoration. Care should be given to the rare TA-1XX output device. I like this amplifier very much,i had to sell mine because i was unable to find someone who can actually handle it. Also very happy with my Model 600,still original.
 
Good for you. SO rewarding. My daughter is into old hifi and bought a Maggie console. I built her a tube amp to replace the SS in there, with her helping. She'll remember these moments long after we leave.

Good luck with your restoration. Care should be given to the rare TA-1XX output device. I like this amplifier very much,i had to sell mine because i was unable to find someone who can actually handle it. Also very happy with my Model 600,still original.

Thank you both for the kind words.

Hopefully, those TA-100s will not suffer under my watch. ;)
 
I'll be following along good sir and kind lady. :thumbsup:

When your daughter's done with that one, please send her my way to finish mine. :D This is a very cool thing that she likes this stuff. Good job, Dad!

Thank you, gentlemen. I've been following your progress, rjsalvi. I've also read thru your well documented restoration reference threads, hopjohn. I've learned from both of you. Hopefully we can do you proud.

I'm still very much a student in this realm. I will definitely need any input offered regarding viable component replacements. Ive put together a list and will post it this evening. Meanwhile, this pesky thing called a job keeps expecting me to show up. :p
 
the main capacitors may need replacing if the ends are bulging on any of them, the ones in mine are but it still sounds fine

These main caps don't display any signs of stress. I don't have means to do further testing on them, but the rail voltage looks good.

but I'm sure U can get same size replacement caps. the ''bad-ass'' looking ones. I think

I'm inclined at this time to retain the original main caps. So we'll go with the factory bad-ass look for now. ;)
 
We spent some time testing the resistors on the diode board. A few had some errant readings, but after lifting a leg to remove them from circuit, all tested very close to spec.

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After culling through other threads regarding replacements for the diode board components, I've made the following list. Any comments or corrections are most welcome.

Qz1,Qz3 2SC945 > KSC1845FTA
Qz2 2SC1212A > KSC2690AYS
Dz1-Dz8 U05C > 1N5408-TP
Dz9 W06B > 1N4007
Dz10-Dz12 1S2076 > 1N4148

And the following Digikey part numbers for the caps:

Cz4 100uf 493-3190-ND. Edit: Cz4 493-10816-1-ND
Cz8 10uf 604-1099-ND
Cz9 100uf 493-3190-ND

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We spent some time testing the resistors on the diode board. A few had some errant readings, but after lifting a leg to remove them from circuit, all tested very close to spec.

View attachment 857671

Only, good to see a young lady audio tek in training. maybe there is hope for the future.
She will be a good one.

After culling through other threads regarding replacements for the diode board components, I've made the following list. Any comments or corrections are most welcome.

Qz1,Qz3 2SC945 > KSC1845FTA
Qz2 2SC1212A > KSC2690AYS
Dz1-Dz8 U05C > 1N5408-TP
Dz9 W06B > 1N4007
Dz10-Dz12 1S2076 > 1N4148

And the following Digikey part numbers for the caps:

Cz4 100uf 493-3190-ND
Cz8 10uf 604-1099-ND
Cz9 100uf 493-3190-ND

View attachment 857679
 
Looking good - I'm enjoying you & your daughter's posts :thumbsup:

Just one comment - I think Cz4 is supposed to be a bipolar cap., the one you have listed is polar.
 
Spent a little time this evening soldering back down the leads I lifted to test the resistors. Also installed the capacitors.

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Next up, we will replace the transistors and diodes.
 
Right now I'm concentrating on the speaker relay driver circuit. Likely leave the big rectifier diodes in place on that board. All others on that board are getting replaced. We'll test it out and not go any further until that's verified.
 
I believe those big caps are 40mm diameter. Michael Percy Audio and PartsConnexion both sell a 10,000uf 63V Nichicon KG Gold cap that is a near perfect replacement (nearly all other 40mm caps are snap-in, and these Nichicon are proper solder lug). The loss of 2000uf of capacitance means essentially nothing, and the Nichicon caps will look like they were born there.

The big rectifier diodes are fine, but because these boards suck so bad to access, pretty much all the rest of the semiconductors get replaced.
 
Thanks for the heads up, EW. Those look great, a little salty, though. I guess if you wanna play you gotta pay. :)

At this point we've got all the semiconductors changed out on the diode board (save the rectifier diodes Dz1thru Dz8).

Haven't got the new main caps yet, so I jumpered in the old ones to test things out. The protection relay snaps right in after a couple seconds. :banana:

Checking out some voltages, though, I'm seeing the same thing that rjsavi saw on pin 30.

After the relay kicks, jumps from around 57v down to around 10v, then slowly settles down to about 7.5v.

I happen to have a KA-9150 in mothballs, so I dug that out and sho-nuff, same deal. Although it settles in around 5v.

Did all the same ground checks, etc. etc. that EW recommended to rjsalvi. Don't see any anomalies.

Scratching my head about this, I did notice that the schematic notes "DC voltages indicated here measured with 20k ohm/V meter." I'm using a digital meter, much higher impedance. I'd expect a little deviation, especially on the lower ranges. But would it be this much? I dunno. :dunno:
 
I know that the dmm is accurate, however, the voltages indicated on the schematic are referenced to 20k ohm/volt. :)

Anyhoo, I wouldn't mind having me an old Simpson or Triplett. ;)
 
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