Chingon I originally was going to have a pretty good gap between the waveguide and driver. I wanted to show off the cool woodgrain and eyeballed what looked best as to placement on the baffle. Before I cut them (luckily) Zilch advised to place them as close as possible. They do sound great though!
Zilch's AK Design Collaborative - Econowave Speaker
- Thread starter Zilch
- Start date
:thmbsp: Function over form any day! Would suck to cover the veneer, but a tweed grill could always work; but if you like the look it's all that matters. If I ever get around to doing this project, I'll make sure to design the box/baffle to work w/the recommended gap (prolly centering the drivers in the vertical position and making up for listening height w/speaker legs.
Sounds like kind of a "modern homage" to the appearance of the JBL L88 Nova (picture from the restoration thread from user pabs911 ):
I'd say that was particularly fitting, given the LE14 in there, and the JBL origin of the PT-waveguide concept...
Regards,
Gordon.
skywave-rider
Slumming in Akihabara
Those are very attractive.
DigitalChris
Member
Sorry this is so late, but here is a pic of my X-Over. All three are identical, the only thing I did different from the plans was use a different resistor in one of the spots, not sure which one though. I did this because the one that was in the plans was out of stock so I chose the slightly more expensive but same parameter Dayton model.
Again, I can't remember which one was different but maybe you can tell?
Again, I can't remember which one was different but maybe you can tell?
Kegger
R.I.P. 1/12/1966 - 6/1/2017
You might want to think about making that compensation cap(the .47uf) smaller.
What that will do is only not pad the "higher highs", as you make that cap larger
the lower the frequencies are to let through unattenuated, if you make it smaller
you knock down the highs lower than those extreme highs, then you can turn up
the level pot to bring everything back up to match the woofers output.
I might try something between .22-.33uf and see what that gets you.
(might even have bad compensation caps in there, unlikely but hey)
I don't know the xover board, someone who does can you check the 2 resistors
are in the right spot and not reversed? (guessing it looks right to me by bypass)
What that will do is only not pad the "higher highs", as you make that cap larger
the lower the frequencies are to let through unattenuated, if you make it smaller
you knock down the highs lower than those extreme highs, then you can turn up
the level pot to bring everything back up to match the woofers output.
I might try something between .22-.33uf and see what that gets you.
(might even have bad compensation caps in there, unlikely but hey)
I don't know the xover board, someone who does can you check the 2 resistors
are in the right spot and not reversed? (guessing it looks right to me by bypass)
looking at the schematic and Zilch's photo, the 16Ω goes to LP3, wait, er, dammit... You're right. Not sure what I did there.
DigitalChris
Member
How about toe-in? Would that help with any issues including ones that I haven't already mentioned, like imaging and what not? Normally I would try before asking but because my wall needs modifying in order to try toe-in, I figured I'd ask first 
Chris, back up and get the driver in the waveguide measured with no crossover in a way that matches what's already posted here and elsewhere. You would probably be best off going straight to gated measurements in HolmImpulse, ARTA, or etc. Then, go to measurements of just the driver in the waveguide with the crossover (still gated), and see how that compares.
skywave-rider
Slumming in Akihabara
How about toe-in? Would that help with any issues including ones that I haven't already mentioned, like imaging and what not? Normally I would try before asking but because my wall needs modifying in order to try toe-in, I figured I'd ask first
Yo, Chris, what's the hold up?
Measure those things.
And do it as we asked.
Make like a scientist for a bit, otherwise measurements are meaningless.
skywave-rider
Slumming in Akihabara
Protection Cap
Protection cap is a single pole filter so you avoid frying the driver when testing, or running active, from a turn-on transient or other mistake. About an octave below intended frequency of use is OK. Something like this:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?PartNumber=027-440
Simply put it in series with the HF driver. no other crossover elements connected.
Limit your sweep when you test from 500Hz and you are safe.
You can probably go non-polarized electrolytic, I wouldn't, but for a baseline check they might be OK and very cheap in comparison.
Protection cap is a single pole filter so you avoid frying the driver when testing, or running active, from a turn-on transient or other mistake. About an octave below intended frequency of use is OK. Something like this:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?PartNumber=027-440
Simply put it in series with the HF driver. no other crossover elements connected.
Limit your sweep when you test from 500Hz and you are safe.
You can probably go non-polarized electrolytic, I wouldn't, but for a baseline check they might be OK and very cheap in comparison.
Last edited:
4343
Super Member
Much cheaper in fact:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=027-350
98 cents. Either way, shipping is the deal killer.
You could get close enough by using the two 12uF's you have in your crossovers paralleled, but it would be a pain to remove them. Still, that's the cheapest/quickest way to get to where you want to be, unless you have spares on hand.
