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Akia CS-703D working...

jleon92f

Addicted Member
Akai CS-703D working...

I finished my Akai yesterday, tough belt job... Looks and sounds good so far.

This is the way it should be you change the belts and it is done.

Thanks,
John.:music:
 
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Hi jleon92f,

I'm part way through the same job on the same tape deck.... it's going quite poorly... any advice?
 
Hi jleon92f,

I'm part way through the same job on the same tape deck.... it's going quite poorly... any advice?

Hi,

What have you done so far? This one was very hard for me too. You need patience with this one. Which belt are you doing now?

Thanks,
John.:music::D
 
Hi jleon, thanks for picking this up this thread again....

I have the thing back together, in a manner of speaking.... but the initial problems persist. (Very slow if not bound up playback, eating tape in play, rewind and ff fine, except they trigger the auto-stop mech with one revolution of the..... I'm guessing... auto-stop mechanism...)

I failed to properly diagram or otherwise record the way the belts were strung, not to suggest that I was very well able to see them to begin with, given the physical hindrances. That and, things sort of fell apart unexpectedly.

So... wide flat belt from motor to capstan flywheel.... easy peasy, obviously, and it seems to be running fine. This belt is new.

The inner square diameter belts.... not so sure. In fact, I'm quite confident I have them very wrong, but don't care to experiment until I'm certain I have good advice.

So. The larger if the two square belts is strung from the upper wheel on the left most (looking from rear of chassis)(see picture) pretty much straight across to the flange on the rear of the (if looking at the faceplate now) right hand..... oh dear.... axle?..... that spins the right hand tape reel. This is a new belt. I quite particularly think this has been mis-routed, as it seems a fair bit loose.

The middle pulley moving down and to the right (again from the rear) does not hold a belt.... in my new exotic configuration. I might guess I have this wrong. The belt on the upper pulley seems to glide through the top of this pulley.

The smaller of the two square belts goes from the lower visible white plastic pulley (vented with holes) to...... oh my god, I don't really know.... though taking a closer look just now, I've noticed that it's smooth travel is quite dramatically impeded by a vertical steel bar in the assembly. When operational in play, the pulley will spin for a revolution of the autostop mech, then just stop.

This smaller one is the original belt, as it wasn't included as a new replacement in the "kit" I got to replace the belts in this unit from vintage-electronics.net.

I was quite tired and frustrated (and possibly a bit drunk) by the time I'd even gotten enough of the assembly apart to get as far (though misdirected) as I did. I probably shouldn't have continued, but you know how it is.

Hehe..... and sorry for my lack of the right names for all of the doo-dads in here... your help is appreciated, I'm not out a lot of money on these things, but hey, I just can't give up, despite my follies.

I won't be working on it tonight (going to see Rush!) but tomorrow night if the 3 year old allows.

I'll be watching this thread like a hawk until then.

Thanks for your help!
 

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Oh, one more thing..... there's a spring directly south of the three pulleys attached to the same metal section. It's attached at the bottom, but when things flew apart, it detached from... whatever it was attached to at the top.... I'll be gosh-darned if I can find wear markings or any other evidence of where it should be re-attached at the top. It might have become too stretched anyway. Any ideas there? Here's a pic:
 

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Hi jleon, thanks for picking this up this thread again....

I have the thing back together, in a manner of speaking.... but the initial problems persist. (Very slow if not bound up playback, eating tape in play, rewind and ff fine, except they trigger the auto-stop mech with one revolution of the..... I'm guessing... auto-stop mechanism...)

I failed to properly diagram or otherwise record the way the belts were strung, not to suggest that I was very well able to see them to begin with, given the physical hindrances. That and, things sort of fell apart unexpectedly.

So... wide flat belt from motor to capstan flywheel.... easy peasy, obviously, and it seems to be running fine. This belt is new.

The inner square diameter belts.... not so sure. In fact, I'm quite confident I have them very wrong, but don't care to experiment until I'm certain I have good advice.

So. The larger if the two square belts is strung from the upper wheel on the left most (looking from rear of chassis)(see picture) pretty much straight across to the flange on the rear of the (if looking at the faceplate now) right hand..... oh dear.... axle?..... that spins the right hand tape reel. This is a new belt. I quite particularly think this has been mis-routed, as it seems a fair bit loose.

The middle pulley moving down and to the right (again from the rear) does not hold a belt.... in my new exotic configuration. I might guess I have this wrong. The belt on the upper pulley seems to glide through the top of this pulley.

The smaller of the two square belts goes from the lower visible white plastic pulley (vented with holes) to...... oh my god, I don't really know.... though taking a closer look just now, I've noticed that it's smooth travel is quite dramatically impeded by a vertical steel bar in the assembly. When operational in play, the pulley will spin for a revolution of the autostop mech, then just stop.

This smaller one is the original belt, as it wasn't included as a new replacement in the "kit" I got to replace the belts in this unit from vintage-electronics.net.

I was quite tired and frustrated (and possibly a bit drunk) by the time I'd even gotten enough of the assembly apart to get as far (though misdirected) as I did. I probably shouldn't have continued, but you know how it is.

Hehe..... and sorry for my lack of the right names for all of the doo-dads in here... your help is appreciated, I'm not out a lot of money on these things, but hey, I just can't give up, despite my follies.

I won't be working on it tonight (going to see Rush!) but tomorrow night if the 3 year old allows.

I'll be watching this thread like a hawk until then.

Thanks for your help!


Hi, I did not take mine all apart, I loosened the (2) halves enough to slip the belts in. When I work on anything I take plenty of pictures for putting it back together.
Also I do not have my deck anymore, went to someone else.
The tape counter belt keeps the deck working.

Not much else I can tell you without a diaghram from a SM.

Go over your steps and try to back track what you did.

Sorry I cannot be of more help. As for the spring, look around the area to see where it was attached.

I am in the middle of a similar repair, not coming along as expected..

Thanks,
John.:music::D
 
I went back and found some of the pics I took when I did mine.


It was the wrong picture?? Alright...Sorry.



Thanks,
John.:music::D
 
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Hey John,

I don't think that the extra pic you put up is the Akai cs-703d. But no worries. I did take the time to go back to your initial post and study the inside pic you had. Your auto-stop housing differs a bit from mine.

Anyway, I got the thing working, for the most part. I had the belts right, except the one had become a bit tied up in some other structure. The belt that got screwy, as it turns out, is the belt which actuates the auto-stop mechanism. And, it was the auto-stop mechanism which initially"blew up" (actually, fell out, to be less dramatic) when I removed the second screw in my initial fumblings. This mechanism also is dependant on the proper placement of the spring I was (and still am) unsure about. For the life of me, I simply cannot find somewhere where it should fit, and I have tried a few different placements to see how it might affect function.

So, in essence I have no auto-stop. But hey, I'm not too bent out of shape about it. It could be either that spring, or the small belt (which was not replaced with new) is too stretched or too old to function properly.

But in the end.... I can play tapes! (and ff, rw, and presumably record.) :banana:

Thanks again for your help and encouragement.
 
Hi guys,
I am posting here because this is the closest model I can find to my CS-702D Mk.II
Mine will play fine for about 15 mins or so then start to slow. How many belts am I looking at for replacement in this unit? Any tips for a first timer?
Also anyone know the volt mA requirements for a vu lamp on one of these?
Thanks, I'll keep searching for this particular model.
 
Hey Trotp3,

I would hazard a guess that the default answer anyone would give you, assuming that you've cleaned the head and reachable moving bits that transport the actual tape, would be to replace the belts.

It's reasonably inexpensive, and I suppose it would be easy enough on most (though I have no other experience from this CS-703d that I have.) Jleon92f expressed his own challenge with the model I have, and he seems to have far greater experience than either of us.

Whatever the case, your model appears to have been the predecessor to mine, and its hard to say looking at the exterior of it whether all of the transport mechanics are the same, or vastly different.

Assuming that your Mk II isn't terribly dissimilar to the basic CS-702D, then the belt kit is available on the same site that I purchased mine from, vintage-electronics.net. That set looks to be $2 more than mine was ($19 versus $17), so perhaps it is different in sizing or something. You may wish to confirm that (cs-702d vs Mk II) with the site prior to ordering.

I found their service fine, in terms of speed of delivery and whatnot, BUT I only received two belts (for the main transport assembly) when a complete set would've included 3 (the third, a smaller one, for the auto-stop mechanism.) You may wish to confirm this also with the seller, should you elect this route, that you will receive the third belt.

I didn't bother to follow it up to get the third belt..... I got sufficiently pissed off with the thing that I just unhooked the auto-stop mechanism completely, therefore no longer have that feature. Not sure if the lack of a new belt was the issue, or if it was something else mechanical which prevented me from getting the auto-stop to function without messing up the whole unit. The tape deck runs better (in my case) without it.

Tips for the first-timer.... I was a first-timer as well..... have patience, tremendous patience. Take lots of pictures (including close-ups) with your digital camera of the innards of the thing, both fully assembled, and during stages of your dis-assembly. Prior to dis-assembling, familiarize yourself as well as possible with the logic of what the belts are doing under what circumstances, and what they are / are not attached to. Save your first drink until at least two out of three of the belts are re-installed properly.

All of the above tips..... I completely ignored, which turned the belt replacement into a much longer process than it probably needed to have been.

Regarding the vu lamps... I haven't a clue, I was fortunate enough to have mine intact and working. (though regarding the vu meters.... yours are much nicer than mine!)

Best of luck!
 
Hey John,

I don't think that the extra pic you put up is the Akai cs-703d. But no worries. I did take the time to go back to your initial post and study the inside pic you had. Your auto-stop housing differs a bit from mine.

Anyway, I got the thing working, for the most part. I had the belts right, except the one had become a bit tied up in some other structure. The belt that got screwy, as it turns out, is the belt which actuates the auto-stop mechanism. And, it was the auto-stop mechanism which initially"blew up" (actually, fell out, to be less dramatic) when I removed the second screw in my initial fumblings. This mechanism also is dependant on the proper placement of the spring I was (and still am) unsure about. For the life of me, I simply cannot find somewhere where it should fit, and I have tried a few different placements to see how it might affect function.

So, in essence I have no auto-stop. But hey, I'm not too bent out of shape about it. It could be either that spring, or the small belt (which was not replaced with new) is too stretched or too old to function properly.

But in the end.... I can play tapes! (and ff, rw, and presumably record.) :banana:

Thanks again for your help and encouragement.

Hi, I am glad you got it working to your satisfaction. I was glad when I finished mine. It went to a new home for someone else enjoy my hard work.:D
I am still learning on these, eavch one is different but the same at the same time.:scratch2:

Thanks,
John.:music::D
 
In reference to the "auto stop" mechanism, the one on my new (to me) CS-703D seems to be working TOO well - it stops any time is darn well pleases and frequently. Everything else on the deck works perfectly. I would be happy to disable the function if there is a simple way to do it, without doing open heart surgery.

Thanks,

Mike
 
.....I would be happy to disable the function if there is a simple way to do it, without doing open heart surgery.

Take a good look at the autostop mech, and you can figure out how to dis-engage it

attachment.php


In the red cirlce you can se a black "roller" - this roller rotates as long as the motor is running.

You can se a little arm - app, in the middle, this arm is leaning at either the left or right side, depending on which way the tape is moving. When the tape stops, this arm won't be held at either side, but will be pushed to the center, where a notch would push it, and release the buttons.

That black roller is driven by a gear, and a belt - remove that belt :)

(Above is from memory - haven't had such a mech in my hands the last 15 years )
 
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I think jan stevns' approach is far more measured than mine..... I just tore out the whole assembly. Mine was exhibiting similar issues to yours Mike Sloane, so the issue is likely a stretched or old belt on that assembly.

.... Which is of some comfort to me, as I figured I'd simply pooched the whole thing. Could still be the case.
 
I fixed it!

I took a look in the area the Jan pointed to and discovered that there is a black plastic cam that has a square hole and rides on a white plastic square block. It is supposed to slice over about a 1/4" inch and miss the "trigger" that stops the transport - it gets pushed by another white plastic cam the rides in one of the two grooves (the one farthest from the cart) on the cam. But if there is excessive friction between the block and the cam, it won't slide over and will trip the "stop" mechanism. I couldn't find my plastic compatible light oil, so I carefully blew some powdered graphite into the area, and that seemed to do the trick. I played half a dozen different carts, and the machine never tripped the auto stop until it hit the actual end of the tape.

Thanks for the help!

Now I have to figure out if this deck should replace one of the other decks in my "studio". I have decks by Technics, Kenwood, Sanyo, etc. that all look pretty similar and have mostly the same capabilities (Dolby on/off, twin VU meters, metal/normal tape, etc.). So how do I rank them in order to pick the best of the best. (I also have a TEAC C-1 that none of the others come even close to, except maybe the TEAC 601R). Is there a listing somewhere that ranks the various decks, or it is just a matter of personal opinion/experience?

Mike
 
I took a look in the area the Jan pointed to and discovered that there is a black plastic cam that has a square hole and rides on a white plastic square block. It is supposed to slice over about a 1/4" inch and miss the "trigger" that stops the transport - it gets pushed by another white plastic cam the rides in one of the two grooves (the one farthest from the cart) on the cam. But if there is excessive friction between the block and the cam, it won't slide over and will trip the "stop" mechanism. I couldn't find my plastic compatible light oil, so I carefully blew some powdered graphite into the area, and that seemed to do the trick. I played half a dozen different carts, and the machine never tripped the auto stop until it hit the actual end of the tape.

Thanks for the help!

Now I have to figure out if this deck should replace one of the other decks in my "studio". I have decks by Technics, Kenwood, Sanyo, etc. that all look pretty similar and have mostly the same capabilities (Dolby on/off, twin VU meters, metal/normal tape, etc.). So how do I rank them in order to pick the best of the best. (I also have a TEAC C-1 that none of the others come even close to, except maybe the TEAC 601R). Is there a listing somewhere that ranks the various decks, or it is just a matter of personal opinion/experience?

Mike

Good Job on that repair Diagnostics..:thmbsp:
 
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