Hi jleon92f,
I'm part way through the same job on the same tape deck.... it's going quite poorly... any advice?

Hi jleon, thanks for picking this up this thread again....
I have the thing back together, in a manner of speaking.... but the initial problems persist. (Very slow if not bound up playback, eating tape in play, rewind and ff fine, except they trigger the auto-stop mech with one revolution of the..... I'm guessing... auto-stop mechanism...)
I failed to properly diagram or otherwise record the way the belts were strung, not to suggest that I was very well able to see them to begin with, given the physical hindrances. That and, things sort of fell apart unexpectedly.
So... wide flat belt from motor to capstan flywheel.... easy peasy, obviously, and it seems to be running fine. This belt is new.
The inner square diameter belts.... not so sure. In fact, I'm quite confident I have them very wrong, but don't care to experiment until I'm certain I have good advice.
So. The larger if the two square belts is strung from the upper wheel on the left most (looking from rear of chassis)(see picture) pretty much straight across to the flange on the rear of the (if looking at the faceplate now) right hand..... oh dear.... axle?..... that spins the right hand tape reel. This is a new belt. I quite particularly think this has been mis-routed, as it seems a fair bit loose.
The middle pulley moving down and to the right (again from the rear) does not hold a belt.... in my new exotic configuration. I might guess I have this wrong. The belt on the upper pulley seems to glide through the top of this pulley.
The smaller of the two square belts goes from the lower visible white plastic pulley (vented with holes) to...... oh my god, I don't really know.... though taking a closer look just now, I've noticed that it's smooth travel is quite dramatically impeded by a vertical steel bar in the assembly. When operational in play, the pulley will spin for a revolution of the autostop mech, then just stop.
This smaller one is the original belt, as it wasn't included as a new replacement in the "kit" I got to replace the belts in this unit from vintage-electronics.net.
I was quite tired and frustrated (and possibly a bit drunk) by the time I'd even gotten enough of the assembly apart to get as far (though misdirected) as I did. I probably shouldn't have continued, but you know how it is.
Hehe..... and sorry for my lack of the right names for all of the doo-dads in here... your help is appreciated, I'm not out a lot of money on these things, but hey, I just can't give up, despite my follies.
I won't be working on it tonight (going to see Rush!) but tomorrow night if the 3 year old allows.
I'll be watching this thread like a hawk until then.
Thanks for your help!


Hey John,
I don't think that the extra pic you put up is the Akai cs-703d. But no worries. I did take the time to go back to your initial post and study the inside pic you had. Your auto-stop housing differs a bit from mine.
Anyway, I got the thing working, for the most part. I had the belts right, except the one had become a bit tied up in some other structure. The belt that got screwy, as it turns out, is the belt which actuates the auto-stop mechanism. And, it was the auto-stop mechanism which initially"blew up" (actually, fell out, to be less dramatic) when I removed the second screw in my initial fumblings. This mechanism also is dependant on the proper placement of the spring I was (and still am) unsure about. For the life of me, I simply cannot find somewhere where it should fit, and I have tried a few different placements to see how it might affect function.
So, in essence I have no auto-stop. But hey, I'm not too bent out of shape about it. It could be either that spring, or the small belt (which was not replaced with new) is too stretched or too old to function properly.
But in the end.... I can play tapes! (and ff, rw, and presumably record.)
Thanks again for your help and encouragement.

Is this deck worth investing 30 dollars? I saw one for sale on ebay

.....I would be happy to disable the function if there is a simple way to do it, without doing open heart surgery.
I took a look in the area the Jan pointed to and discovered that there is a black plastic cam that has a square hole and rides on a white plastic square block. It is supposed to slice over about a 1/4" inch and miss the "trigger" that stops the transport - it gets pushed by another white plastic cam the rides in one of the two grooves (the one farthest from the cart) on the cam. But if there is excessive friction between the block and the cam, it won't slide over and will trip the "stop" mechanism. I couldn't find my plastic compatible light oil, so I carefully blew some powdered graphite into the area, and that seemed to do the trick. I played half a dozen different carts, and the machine never tripped the auto stop until it hit the actual end of the tape.
Thanks for the help!
Now I have to figure out if this deck should replace one of the other decks in my "studio". I have decks by Technics, Kenwood, Sanyo, etc. that all look pretty similar and have mostly the same capabilities (Dolby on/off, twin VU meters, metal/normal tape, etc.). So how do I rank them in order to pick the best of the best. (I also have a TEAC C-1 that none of the others come even close to, except maybe the TEAC 601R). Is there a listing somewhere that ranks the various decks, or it is just a matter of personal opinion/experience?
Mike