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Sansui AU-317 vs. AU-317 Mk-II

Karl vd Berg

Super Member
Sansui AU-317, my first restoration!

Hi folks!

I have two integrated I can buy: one man wants to sell a really nice condition AU-317 (1st version, 1977) for 50 euros. And another guy has an AU-317II (2nd version, 1980) in "decent" condition for 40 euros.

Which one shall I take? Is the second version (Mk-II) much that better than the first?
 
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I'd buy whichever is in the best condition. There's no sonic difference between the two. The 10wpc power difference is neither here nor there. The earlier model does have better build quality internally (if this matters). The early model also has the pre-out/main-in connectors on the rear panel.
 
I'd buy whichever is in the best condition. There's no sonic difference between the two. The 10wpc power difference is neither here nor there. The earlier model does have better build quality internally (if this matters). The early model also has the pre-out/main-in connectors on the rear panel.
Fantastic! Actually it's a dream! It's my first Sansui integrated I was pursuing it long ago!

I'll take the early version, then!

Any suggestion in changing some components?
 
Hi,

The 317 is a very nice amp.

The main thing to check is the fuse resistors, these are a known problem and will most likely be out of specification (they will go high in resistance value).

Cheers

John
 
Hi,

The 317 is a very nice amp.

The main thing to check is the fuse resistors, these are a known problem and will most likely be out of specification (they will go high in resistance value).

Cheers

John
Do you know which ones they are? I have also the schematics. Ans do you recommend a higher value in Watts?
 
Definitely look at replacing the fuse resistors. Dad created a thread a while back which shows the location and details of the fuse resistors, but I haven't gotten around to taking pics of my 317 for inclusion in that thread:

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=430439

I'm sure Dad can assist regarding the location of the fuse resistors in the 317.

You can also look at replacing the capacitors if you wish. I threw some Panasonic FCs into my 317, along with the fuse resistors and replacing the VD1212 diodes with a series'd pair of 1N4148 diodes and it sounds very nice. I use it as the amp in my PC system and it works a treat.
 
Thank you so much, guys!

I'll be definitely here (exclusively Sansui) from now on! :thmbsp:

I will do everything to get absolutely the best out of my unit! :music:
 
... and replacing the VD1212 diodes with a series'd pair of 1N4148 diodes and it sounds very nice...
Just one question: how do you do this? Sorry, it might be a silly question but I'm just trying to figure it out... How do you put them series'd in the board?

Interesting...
 
Buuuuuuuut...

Dear friends, I've got the AU-317. I paid 25 euros because it was nice outside, but very dusty inside! Spiders were living in!

Vacuum a bit, soft brush also. I wonder how I will clean completely it. Water? Special sprays?

The unit for me is complex to open the parts. I have to take pictures of all wires and connections.

I couldn't take the volume pot off, even trying with all the allens I have. If I want to have access the boards, I need to take that pot off.

And noise! Noise everywhere I touched! With the volume, noise with the Balance, noise with Treble, noise with Tone defeat control! All the trimpots to be clean?

The reason I paid 25 euros for the unit was also because all the speakers connection are broken!!! :thumbsdn:

But I took this unit because I hope you can help me. The other newer unit (Mk-II) was sold yesterday...

Big challenge now?
 
The removal of Volume pot grub screw requires a 1.5mm allen key - It is a little fiddly to remove - try to insert the allen key dead straight down and turn slowly until it engages into the grub screw.
 
Believe it or not....and a little penetrating oil at first doesn't hurt..., but if you have got that big ol' hole at the end of your 12" crescent dogged off on that allen :saywhat: and it still won't loosen? Try tightening it a bit, you might be amazed. :D
 
LOL!

I tried all night long that volume hole and I couldn't get in! :dunno:

However, I have some pictures I just took from the power board (1st picture below). The only part I could remove until that screw will come out.

This is my first restoration EVER! :eek: And I only trust you Sansui experts to help me.

With the attached pictures, I would like to ask also if I have to change other components other than capacitor, the fuse resistors and those tiny diodes DL1212 you mentioned before.

There are the 2 couple of transistors (2nd pic) they look very scruffy (2SB527 and 2SD357). Kale, on the beautiful thread "AU-X1 Japanese restoration unit" mentioned that he changed these TRs for other ones with greater Vcbo.

I wonder if other transistors in the AU-317 (TR601 and TR602), 2SD356 and 2SB526 (3rd pic), should also be replaced with new ones or with greater Vcbo as well.

Also those nasty Styrol caps (5th picture) I would like to replace with some really good ones.

4th picture: the rectifiers ERD03-02H looks pretty consumed. They also to be changed?

Finally (by now), any advice on the caps to bypass the power caps?
 

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Hi Karl,

That volume pot allen screw can be difficult to locate with the allen key, patience will win out.

The transistors and rectifier diodes have some oxidation on the metal surfaces, but that IMO in nothing or any consequence to worry about. Also I would not replace the Stryol caps,they normally don't give any problems and are located in parts of the circuit that need a particular capacitor type.

If it were me, on the "power board" I would change the electrolytic capacitors (including removing the glue from the PCB and checking if any components in contact with the glue have been corroded an if so replace them as well), the fuse resistors and replace the Bias pots with multiturn type.

Here is a link (Australian audio forum) to a 317 restoration I did earlier this year

http://www.stereo.net.au/forums/index.php?/topic/44937-sansui-au317-restoration/

Cheers

John
 
I'm agreement with skippy124 change-out suggestions as well as removing all glue residue - :thmbsp:

The large 10,000uf 50V 4-pin PSU electrolyic caps can be replaced with ones from the Panasonic T-HA Series:

15,000uF 50V 50mm(H) x 35mm(D) - Panasonic part No. ECE-T1HA153EA

12,000uF 63V 50mm(H) x 35mm(D) - Panasonic part No. ECE-T1JA123EA
15,000uF 63V 60mm(H) x 35mm(D) - Panasonic part No. ECE-T1JA153EA

10,000uF 80V 80mm(H) x 35mm(D) - Panasonic part No. ECE-T1KA103EA

I have used the 12,000uF 63V for several AU317 re-caps as they were within my budget.
 
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